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As the owner of a pretty tricked out 2008 Kawasaki Teryx, I am very familiar with the Teryx. My Teryx did not stay stock long, but I recently spent three days in a bone stock 2008 Teryx on a ride to the Grand Canyon.
The 2008 Teryx is a great machine, but my biggest complaint was that it came out with carbs instead of fuel injection. In less that a year since the first Teryxs hit dealer floors, Kawasaki dealers are already selling 2009 Teryxs with EFI. The New digital fuel inject on the Teryx is really nice. The engine starts right up and idles smoothly. On acceleration, the 2009 Teryx felt more crisp and seemed to get up to top speed a little quicker. While it is not a night and day difference, I definitely preferred everything about the EFI on the 2009 over the carburetors on the 2008.
Next up on the list of what's new is a fuel gauge. I know it doesn't seem like something to get that excited about, but I do some long distance rides, and the fuel level display takes the mystery out of "I wonder how much fuel I have left?"
The Teryx Sport has upgraded aluminum wheels which not only look much better, but are also 2.2 lbs. lighter than the standard steel wheels. Losing unsprung weight not only requires less energy to get the tires spinning, but also helps the suspension work better. And as a little bonus, the aluminum wheels are actually strong that their steel counterpart.
Suspension is on the 2009 Teryx Sport has a few upgrades as well. The gas-charged Kayaba shocks have reservoirs all the way around to help reduce fade in rough terrain. The preload adjustment is step-less, and they have fully adjustable rebound and compression (high and low speed) damping. Although we did not have any opportunities to jump the new Teryx Sport, we did get into some nasty whoops and hard g-outs.
I felt the Teryx Sport suspension handled the terrain better than a standard Teryx suspension. The ride through the light chop was a bit smoother than a standard Teryx and when we got into the whoops I felt a little more comfortable as well. Although I was able to bottom out the front shocks on a few hard g-outs, a standard shock would have gone to the stops more often and with more force. Overall, even though I did not spend any time trying to fine tune the adjustments on the new Sport shocks, I think they are a worthy improvement over standard shocks.
The Lime Green plastic on the Teryx Sport is a great color. Much more sharp than the drab green found on the 2008 Teryx. And with all the UTVs out in the dunes in Glamis, there is no doubt that you are in a Kawasaki when you are driving it.
The 2009 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport has a MSRP of $11,899.
A full list of all new 2009 Kawasaki Teryx improvements and photo galleries can be found here.
2009 Kawasaki Teryx Sport Press Intro
2009 Kawasaki Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport Review
Teryx 750 FI 4x4 Sport - Kawasaki
By fede hanssen
I have just got a 1995 Bayou 220 from my brother. It is in decent condition ant it has not been used much, yet it has been sitting idle for a long time (4+ years).
The plan is to overhaul it and move it to a location where it will be used 4-6 times a year, so, beyond having the battery charged, the idea is to have it ready and in good condition. It will be stored in a steltered place while waiting to be used.
My questions would be: 1. What things should I carry out as basic overhaul tasks / 2. What are the typical aches, things to watch out for in this model/year.
I definitely plan on changing all the fluids, filters, battery, cleaning the carb, etc. but any specific recommendation from your experience will be of great help.
thanks in advance!
So we are almost a month into winter and I've been so busy working on my house that up until today, I didn't realize that we just haven;t gotten any real snow yet to warrant putting the plow on my grizzly. So that got me thinking, what are the latest plows out there and what ATV plows are the best? I've got 2 snow plows for my grizzly, a quadboss pile driver atv plow set up and a snowsport ATV plow. They are both a bit dated now and I tend to stick with the snowsport due to ease of use and I just like it so much. So if you have a plow on your ATV, please let us know what it is and post a picture with your atv/plow would be awesome. Would also like to know what you like and dislike about it.
This is back a while when I did a write up on these 2 plows.... in 2009 I got the snowsport and in 2012 I got the quadboss.
I have a 1998 Big bear 350...the tail pipe/spark arrestor is broke in the exhaust....how can I get it out to replace it? And what's the best way to get the new one in?
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CONSUMER REDEMPTION FORM
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I have a 2003 kodiak, 450, that the tail, light is being turned on by front brake control handlebar lever which I dont think should even happen . I have disconnected the brake switch by removing the spring. You can barely touch the lever and the tail light comes on the problem is after parking there is enough contact that the light dont burn but it will run the battery down in a period of 24 hours. Its a good machine with right at 5000 miles and 1500 hours but I am at the end of my rope with it
Since my tracking days are over for this season, ... I put together some clips from all my different Track Rides to show just how much fun I & my riding buddies had !!
It's a tad long again, ... but I did leave out a lot of what I felt was good stuff. So I hope you enjoy what I did put together !!
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yblyntKZE8k]2013 2014 Tracking Season In Review - YouTube[/ame]
This is a 2008 Polaris Sportsman 500 X2 modification to make the taillights only come on when the headlights are on. Normally the taillights are always on, which I admit is very helpful when following someone on the trail in lowlight conditions. I prefer to have the option of when the lights are on, so I installed the following mod to my Polaris.
- 1 x Bosch style relay. Amazon: AGT (5 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay with Harness; spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS) for 13.99.
- 1 x 1N400X diode (I used a 1N4004, but any diode in the series should be fine)
- Wire connectors, preferably marine grade heat shrinkable.
- Heat shrink wrap.
- Wire protection: split loom and nylon sleeve.
- Wire: 5 feet of 16-18 gauge.
Bosch relay info: CHETS CIRCUITS (and scroll down to yellow diagram near mid page--thanks Chet)
1. Splice into a headlamp wire and run it to relay pin 85; ground pin 86 to the frame.
2. Cut the two taillight wires (L and R), and connect one side of the cut (both L and R) to relay pin 30, and the other side to pin 87.
3. When the headlights are on, power from the headlight wire to pin 85 causes the relay to close the taillight connection through pins 30 and 87 to make the taillights turn on. When the headlights are off, the connection between pins 30 and 87 is open, resulting in the taillights being off.
4. The brake lights are on their own circuit, so will still work normally.
5. The relay only draws about 170 milliamps from the headlight splice so there is no apparent change in headlight intensity.
6. I don’t think joining the individual L and R taillight wires to pass through the relay (pins 30 and 87) has any effect on the electrical system since they come from the same splice upstream.
My install used a 5 pin relay with pig tail wire connector. I removed the unneeded center pin wire (87a pin):
I pulled out the 85 and 86 wire pins and soldered a 1N4004 diode in as a precaution against back EMF. Back EMF is a voltage spike caused when power is removed from the relay that could cause damage to switches in a system not specifically designed to have a relay. An electrician may know better whether or not this is needed to protect the headlight system of the quad. Note the diode’s cathode end must connect to the power wire (pin 85 in this case), and anode end must connect to the grounded wire (pin 86), I.E. Reversing the diode polarity will cause a short and potential damage. An option is to purchase a relay with an integrated diode. Diodes are cheap at Radio Shack. I suspect installing a diode is overkill, but I had the time and energy . . .
Soldered in diode and with connectors and diode reinstalled:
Next, I found a place to mount the relay. On the left side frame, next to the air box, was a foot-well brace bar that bolts into the frame. I mounted the relay on this bolt and also connected the relay ground wire (pin 86) to the bolt by crimping a ring connector to the wire:
Then I very carefully removed a half inch of insulation from the front left headlight power wire (a green wire on my quad) and soldered in a wire to connect to pin 85. I put a nylon sleeve on this wire and ran it back to the relay, following existing wire looms and zip tying it in place:
Next I accessed the taillight wires--the PS500 X2 made this easy since it has a dump bed that lifts up. For typical quads, you may need to remove the rear storage rack to access the taillight loom. As you can see in the pic, my taillight wires are red w/white trace, the brake light wires are orange, and the ground wires are dark brown. Cut the taillight wires and crimp on connectors, then connect to pins 30 and 87 (black and blue wires in my case). Polarity doesn’t matter. View from above:
Made all the connections to the relay then tested the light system. Worked like a champ. I used shrink wrap and tape to seal the connections then put split loom wire protection over the wires between the relay and taillight loom and zip tied everything in place.
I also spliced in a license plate light to the taillight circuit. I used tape to mask the dome so only a slit is open to shine softly on the plate.
Had a couple more pics, but apparently can only upload up to 5 total, or per post.
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