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Guest dukefan
in Yamaha ATV Forum
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By cruteg8
Does anyone know forsure if u can swap out the Crank Case on a 2001 kawasaki Lakota 300 sport with a kawasaki Bayou 300 Im seeing yes and no all over some say the mounting position is different so you can't swap the cases but everyother inernal engine part you can swap then im seeing no problem bolts right on can someone plz clarify who knows forsure
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By sunn
Maybe someone has the answer to correct a long cranking but did start after maybe 10 seconds?
Temp was mid 70's, with ATV not run for maybe a month but on battery maintainer with full bat charge noted. The atv started, but then died a couple times after repeated attempts. But when run awhile everything was ok. Although when starting now I do hear the fuel pump humming but seems to take a few ,"long" seconds before full prime pressure.
Is this typical of a failing fuel pump?
I've priced a replacement fuel pump on eBay for less than $40 so am tempted to simply replace it for good PM. Just had all covers off so looks really easy to replace.
Any ideas?
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By baller74
Hi here's the other half of the awesome deal on a quad!
grumbles when I went to look at this quad the seat was off and the headlight was laying aside the tank. first things I noticed was the wiring or wires that were cut to the cdi box and the ignition switch also the seat was off and the fuse off the battery was removed next was the jumper cables hooked up directly to the 110v house plug and the smell of burnt plastic and wire permitted the area. the guy selling it wasin a pinch and eeded quick cash so I overlooked my gut instinct and did a quick tally of cost and parts if I had tobuy the whole electrical system essentials to make it run again and slowly let the numbers 50 fly out and shut up. the foot crank was stripping bolt snapped but I turned it over good compression . this quad was clean as a whistle like brandnew andthe harness so far is in excellent shape. I stopped at a friend's house and found a kymko cdi since box was actually the maker of this engine. fo free and began my next days adventures dreaming that the wind would be in my face and the cops at my back way behind me hauling as* round town In a couple hours I mean he said it ran just fine the day before ....
well it's 715 this evening and I'm still trying to find a factory service manual that is free I can download at least the electrical schematis and conponant pinouts with wire color and a troubleshoot guide with component testing procedures as there more than six wires for the cdi the leftovers are green green with yellow babyblue and brown with yellow no eof these are hooked up and she's a dead horse hoping someone could walk me threw them and there correct designation not just spliced I to a hit etc. the wires I hooked to the cdu are white pickup pin 1, blackwhite the pin 2, blackgreen ground pin 3 4 empty 2 plug slot 1 empty slot 2 brownyellow power. now no been arguing with crapgpt all day sYs the 2 plug 6 wire ac cdi is the oem match for this one. now there was t a cdi when I bought it was "lost" probly along with the "KEY" but the cdi I pulled up shaws a 2 wire boobs 2pluh 6 pin cdi need to know if I can make her go with this cdi I looked at the wiring to that one And shows the stator hot and cold go to those extras not sure but I am leaning towRd there's N internal voltage regulator built into that cdi box. anyone have the skinny on this I have a voltage regulator 5 wire from another bike new bit has a pink wire when I put jumpers from my jeep to the battery and fused the hot side up and tied the red and brown side on it switch no get nada but have voltage from battery to start solenoid to the cdi hot pin the main harness connectors the headlights the green with yellow and all the red wires read that brown with yellow is an accessory wire 12v switched used for engine control restrictions but won't run without constant 12v if this is true I want it bypassed I. 205 pounds and little 200 is gonna struggle enough hauling me don't need any extra help there and infact if anyone can give me a few parts number to buy for some extra preformace and horsepower. I'm on a beer budget after my superchargered wrangler build so pheniox racing gurus and backwood tweeker brothers your input will be invaluable but you would add what you know. alright guy let er ripp I'm all ears.
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By Rick Shropshire
I’m looking at replacing rear brake calipers on both of my blasters. I was told that the only thing available was a hydraulic upgrade? I’d prefer the original. Anyone?
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By Gwbarm
I decided it was time to do the brakes on the Eiger, i got it a couple of years ago and worked out all the bugs got it running good and ignored the brakes. None on it ,front or rear. Decided to attack the front first no pressure on the master cylinder and screws were stripped out on the reservoir, took the banjo bolt loose and pure water ran out, glad i didnt wast time on drilling the screws out, pads were shot also. Pulled a couple out of my box o parts. One was for right hand so wouldnt work, the other looked fine until i opened the reservoir and full of white powder. Cleaned it out anyway and tried it, only would build up a minimal amount of pressure. So no go on that one. So ordered new master cylinder and pads, so now i have to hurry up and wait.
On to the back they are drum brakes so i knew this would be fun, 20 year old machines that have been mudded and abused for that length of time nothing comes off easily. The engage shaft was froze solid from corrosion. Getting that out is easy but you have to get to it first.
The center nut was supposed to be 30mm but it wasnt it was 27 the only size not in my large set, go figure,
The previous owner decided it was a good idea to JB Weld the cover on making it near impossible to get off, had to chiesel it off.
The mounting plate was a different story, nut was tight tight tight took my biggest impact two or 3 times hammering on it to get it loose after soaking all night in PB Blaster. Got it moving along the splined shaft easily but wouldnt come off, when it got to end of its run it would just stop, ended up using 2 24 inch pry bars one on each side, past the point of being gentle and it finally came off.
Got to the drum and it came off easily a little suprised at that, it was full of mud and rust, i knew it was going to be bad because there was a snorkle on it when i got it, never buy one with a snorkle, they are highly abused to the machines limit, but i got it cheap .
Finally got in there and no shoes left and a complete mess.
Lots of mess to clean up.
Got it looking a little better.
Lots of cleanup later! Waiting for new parts.
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