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I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
I've been riding Suzuki Kingquad 300's for the last 20 years. I have 3 of them. I love the low gearing, low center of gravity, low rider position, low racks shaft drive and smooth ride, but they are getting old and I'm tired of fixing them. Best engineering of any utility quad, IMO, but the execution...build quality is not up to par with Honda, so the price you pay is lots of wrenching.
I positively despise CVT type belt drives. My neighbor has a couple of old Hondas, Rancher and Rubicon and I admire the reliability of them. He does very little maintenance and they always run and have pulled my Kingquads home for me when they break.
Is Honda the only company that makes ATV's that don't have CVT? I like the build quality but I don't like the high rider position caused by the vertical cylinder, the cold nature of them, having to warm up for several minutes and the plastic skid plates. I guess all modern ATV's have the same issues, though (correct me if I'm wrong).
Been checking with the dealers, it seems Honda foot shift models are scarce. I really don't need devices/gadgets to decide which gear I need to be in. So I'm avoiding the DCT models. I must have IRS and EPS because of my age and physical condition though.
Is it possible to get a Rancher with IRS, EPS and foot shift? The specs I'm reading show the rancher is 2" lower than the Rubicon. I'm assuming that to be seat height. With vertical cylinder design, the more you grow the engine, the higher you push the seat....at least that's my thinking.
Any comments from the Honda experienced?
By Michael Rogers
Well this is my first time tearing down an ATV. Have done a little work on 2 stroke's in the past, but not much. I'm needing some help. I've got a Bayou that has lost compression. I tested it, and it was like at 40psi. I had already set the timing on it, and it does have spark fuel, etc...
My question is about the cylinder. To me it looks pretty toasted, but need some help in determining. It is a 2000 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I bought it not running, just to see if I can get it running so it has not ran since I bought it. This question is about the cylinder, and part 2 I have will be about the CAM.
Any advice / help is greatly appreciated.
Inside sleeve a line(left line) runs the length that I can feel with my fingernail. The line on the right I can't feel.
Some rust it looks like on these two pictures.
By Ryan Hutton
Hey guys i am new to this site. i have a quadmaster 500 and last year my brother in law had it out and brought it back. When we went to put it away it wont move now any suggestions i have the belt cover off now. With it jacked up it seem to take gear when its not running.
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By cameron walton
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie but pretty handy with a DMM (controls technician). I have been fighting a junker quad i picked up as a project bike, was assured it would run if I replaced the battery and cleaned the carb. I replaced the battery, rebuilt the carb with a OEM kit. FIxed all my switches and foul played circuitry from the last guy.... So I could get it to start long enough to test the quad, it seems okay from a trans/engine point. However I couldn't get the carb adjusted to idle to save my life with the idle air screw or the thumb screw on the card for the slide. I took it to a friend who is much more familiar with yamaha and quads and he double checked my carb rebuild all was fine, he adjusted the float to make the fuel not overfill which i missed.
He pulled the air intake, got it started and couldn't get it to idle with or without air filter. We started looking at the spark plug (new) and he tested it with a spark plug clamp meter, tested good, pulled it and grounded and it had spark but he felt it was weak. I order a working used oem coil to try the easy things first. When I ohm out the coil on the quad with my Fluke i'm seeing .4 ohms on primary (ground lug to male connector) and 18K ohms on secondary (inside boot to ground lug). Seems like this forum is full of bear trackers so I'm hoping someone has some ideas to help me figure where to go with this. His thought was he know I ave fuel and he knows I have air, spark would be next. I have spark but possibly weak. Thanks
By Ryann Racho
So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
Here is what I have done so far:
Checked the belt and clutch
Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
Cleaned the intake and air box
Replaced the carburetor
Replaced the inline fuel filter
Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
By Ray Roberts
Hey everyone im new here, i have a problem with my 2001 suzuki quadrunner 500. When i start the bike up it sounds fine but a few seconds later the idle speed just keeps rising to where you cant put it in gear, and if im lucky it will climb down to where i can put it in gear but when i press the gas it immediately want to die. Please help me!
So I have a 1994 Honda trx300 and I still am having some carb issues. I cleaned the carb and installed a new carb kit. Starts great, idles great, but when in 3rd it seems to pulsate. Not steady power. Any ideas on the setting the setting for the carb? I put a new spark plug in and the old one did seem pretty dark and sooty. I checked the gap on new one and installed. Went for a ride and it didn't seem any different. Any suggestions would be great..
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