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By DarkRider
Hey everybody,
Just curious on some opinions on my recent buy. I'm a big fan of the drivetrain and transmission in the Suzuki King Quad 300 and QuadRunner 250 4wd models. I've been wanting one of either model for quite some time, and recently picked up a really nice shape one for 1500. I just wanted to get some opinions on whether you'd be more hesitant to get something this old, if there are newer options that are comparable.
Also just keep in mind this is coming from someone not super mechanical.
Key factors:
Engine doesn't appear to have any leaks Had to replace the battery for $100, no biggie Front left CV boot is torn (not yet sure if the axle has damage) Starts right up with the tap of the button every time (so far) Idle was a bit low and was shutting off when warm. Adjusted the idle. Now it will only shut off occasionally on a hill if I'm not rolling or giving it gas. Has a Harbor Freight Badland winch with a wireless remote (brand new, tested and working) Has brand new shocks and brakes Shifting gears and changing between 2wd/4wd/diff lock/high/low/super low all seem fine. Rides pretty good, tight steering, takes the bumps pretty good as I have pretty rough trails. Brand new tires Over 2000 miles, that's quite a bit, but it seems well cared for. Plastics are almost all there. It's really only missing a small bit of the black mud flap in the rear. Has minimal stitching in the front, and it's got the usual scuffs. All of the lights work just fine (Neutral, Reverse, high and low beams) Tested the charging system and that works
And I think that's just about all I can think of at the moment. It mostly seems to be complete and all there. I was a little hesitant about getting something that old, as parts are always a concern. Looks like most parts are available, but axles seem to be hard to get if you want something brand new. I really wanted a 2000's model but I couldn't pass up the price.
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By David Cameron
The small waterline insert for the hose that goes from the water pump cover to the thermostat housing has corroded off. I only need the insert on top and behind the thermostat housing that the hose goes over and can't find just the insert. It looks like it may be pressed in. I've have been told the entire motor housing needs to be replaced. The pic with the red line indicates where the hose and insert would be and the insert looks like the pic of the water pump Any ideas would be really appreciated.
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By BuckBilly
Good morning to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Let's see if we can make this a daily event.
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By redhosser
Got a 1997 Honda 300ex came to me in pieces everything was there I put it back together with a manual. But now it won’t shift, when u try to move shifter it’s like a half click no engagement. I’ve took it apart many times can’t find nothing wrong really need some help. Thanks
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By PolarisRich
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
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