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By Gary Ferguson
My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck.
Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again.
Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short.
Here are my readings:
Source coil- 325 ohms
Pickup coil- 225
Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
Gary in SC
By Scott Matthews
Just picked up a 1989 Big Bear 350 for $250 CAD. Bike was running but lost crank and spark. They've installed a new coil, a couple relays, and installed a Ford starter solenoid in place of the original. Now it cranks but has no spark so they sold it to me. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike so I can test some wiring. Also any ideas as to direction to head would be nice. Lots of things have been hacked together so I know it probably wont be to easy. The ignition switch was replaced with a toggle switch, I already mentioned the Ford solenoid which 1 of the small wires was not re-installed, and a diode or something was removed from the oil temp sensor wire. I'm sure I will find more so a diagram would be amazing.
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
On one of the atv I recently purchased the neutral switch is bad, Any one ever replaced one.
looking for some pics. I assume I need to remove the drive shaft to pull the cover foward
to clear the gear shift shaft. Any easy ways to do this. So far have motor moved forward
all bolts out except nuts on drive shaft which are loose Thanks Az
So this 98 Big Bear is my new project. While I'm waiting on a few parts to show up, I'm working on a few small things. I can shift 1-5 just fine, no problem at all (keep in mind, this is not running yet so just manual shifting sitting still). However, I can't shift from 1-neutral. I can hold down on the foot shifter, rock it a bit, and it will disengage the clutch so i can push it around in neutral as long as I keep pushing down on the shifter. However, it will not downshift to neutral and stay there. I know BB's have had some shifting difficulties in the past, but before I dive into this, have any of you fine folks encountered the same issue? I'm tempted to just adjust the linkage a bit since these have an external linkage, but thought I'd toss the question to the group and see if there are any common issues to look for.
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By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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