Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a couple of questions again please. In cleaning the carb i took the needle valve out.... it had a string on it and a rubber ring and a small washer... I need to know for sure how these go back because they fell out of the carb when i took the needle valve out and I am not unsure of how they go back in I think the spring first slides onto the needle valve, but what comes next if so the washer or the rubber O ring? Next I noticed the breather that i purchased does not set tightly into the hose that comes out of the carb would that keep it from idleing correctly? cause i can put something against the hose and it trys to idle? right now though i have the float off cause gas is pouring out of the carb when i try to start it... Thank you in advance

Posted

I called it a needle valve cause of not knowing much about atv's .. its not the needle valve that has the washer and small spring and 0-ring... I think its called a Idler anyways its not in the bowl where the float is at .. but its outside the bowl right beside the bowl on the bottom.... I took it out to clean it and a small washer and 0-ring fell out before i could tell which one came out first.... So if anyone could help me I would appreciate it...

I think its the 0-ring that goes in first and then the spring and then the washer goes on the idler jet? If someone that knows about these things would reply I sure would appreciate it... Thank you.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

What you took out is the mixture screw. Put spring on mixture screw, then washer, then O-ring. Holding the screw so that those parts don't fall off, insert it into hole. I hold the carb so I can insert the screw with tip up, that way the parts wont fall off. Make sure you lightly seat the needle valve and then back it out the same amount of turns it was originally. If you don't know what that adjustment was, you will have to find out. Usually somewhere around 2 1/2 turns on 660s. 1 1/2 on my 450 Kodiak. Good Luck

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Thanks for this post and answer.

I am trying to figure out how to "seat" this "pilot screw" (outside of the float bowl) before backing it out 2.5 turns.

This "pilot screw" can be screwed in so far that the tip can actually be seen coming through the hole in the bottom wall of the carburetor exit. And no, I am not talking about the "jet needle".

There is also a "pilot air jet" set screw on the left wall of the intake side of the carburetor. That needs to be adjusted correctly too. I have read posts that it should be 2 turns out from a soft seat. That screw has a definite seat.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

Posted

it does stick in to the carb body when seated, spray some wd on it, and seat it LIGHTLY, don't tighten it like a screw or it will strip or break the little tip off in the body, back it out 2 turns and try it, if it will idle turn it in slowly till the rpms drop, then out till they drop, set it between, I don't know what your talking about on the pilot air jet unless youre talking about the screw that holds the slide up, if that's it it just pushes the slide up to give it more gas when the throttle is at rest.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By tflack500tbx
      Background,
      This winter (Dec.) I was plowing and everything just died, just quit.  No lights, no pull start, No nothing.  I've had this problem before and I changed the voltage reg and it ran fine for over a year. Then this.  So I changed it again, thinking this was the same problem.  Tried to start it and a small pin hole in the CDI appeared with electrical smoke.  
      Months go by and I finally decide to just replace parts (I'm Horrible at electrical issues).  I changed the stator, new CDI, new Voltage reg, new starter solenoid, tested the starter (prefect), charged the battery.  
      Went to start it and the solenoid rapidly clicked.  All the dash lights on, headlights work.  Pull stared it and it fired right up no issues.  Looked into the rapidly clicking starter solenoid and it was not enough juice in the battery.  Took the battery completely out and hooked up a jump box to it turned the key, light on, everything looks good.  Pushed the starter button and it fired right up ran great.  Turned it off to test it again, Turned the key and nothing.  No dash lights nothing.  Took the jump box off and pulled started it.  Started it right up.  Re-hooked the jump box, still nothing.
      Any Ideas? 
    • By LCP92
      Guys, I've got a 1999 Honda Foreman 450S.  It runs great, but smokes out the exhaust after startup until it warms up.  I'm thinking the valve seals are leaking.  I was wondering if there is a way to replace them without removing the head or if there's an oil additive that will recondition the rubber seals.  Any advice?
    • By DexKing
      I recently got my hands on a free 2004 Recon that the owner had zero information on the machine or the history. Long story short, a little troubleshooting and research revealed i needed to replace the timing chain for it to stay running. when i opened the case, it the chain was so horribly stretched, that the tensioner pivot arm had play between it and the chain! I also found the oil pump chain totally disconnected from the sprocket due to being completely worn out. I tore the whole engine down and rebuilt it from the bottom up finding little things here and there that needed to be replaced. Upon inspecting the top end, i didn't find any bad/excessive play in the crank, rod bearings or wrist pin. Now the machine runs great, but even after 2x adjusting the valves, the chatter is way more than you'd expect from a honda normally. My neighbor is an auto mechanic by trade, and i asked him to take a listen. the look on his face when i started it and it was chattering like that was priceless! He mentioned that maybe the valves themselves might be wore out or stretched. my question here: what all can cause the excessive rattle up in the valve cover aside from valves being out of spec? Everything else seemed to be in decent condition as far as rockers and guides go. I am fairly new to small engine/ATV repairs, but am learning as a hobby and have a fair amount of knowledge with how to do some wrenching. Thanks!
    • By RussB
      Can anyone in the group give the dimensions of this washer. ID-OD and thickness. Dealer says they are backordered til 5-26. Don't want to wait that long. They are less than 2 bucks apiece and i need 4. Thanks
    • By MadAdy73
      Hi there, can anybody share or link a PDF for the 1999 4x2 Quadrunner LT-F250 thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...