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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
By mike costa
Motor starts right up, but when I open it up past quarter throttle it bogs way down while ridding, the longer it runs the worse it gets. If I just leave it in neutral and give it full throttle it revs up and down.
Bike sat for 3 years,
Installed new plug, cleaned the fuel tank, took it to a shop and had the carburetor gone though.
Picked up from shop, motor bogged down first day and barely got me back to the truck an 1 mph.
Took back to shop after a month I was told it had a bad plug, I told him I just replaced it.
Got quad home and it is doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!
Thanks in advance for your support!
The carburetor has recently been gone through by a shop
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
The thing sat since Christmas 2018 and while I decided whether to replace the starter (which I finally did today). I am not sure if I added fuel stabilizer or not but chances are good I did. I kept the one year-old battery well charged during the winter. It turns over well but won't start. I have a blue spark on a brand new plug. When I pour a bit of fuel down the cylinder, the engine starts and runs for a few seconds (once for as long as about 8 sections) and then dies. Even before adding fuel to the cylinder I noticed that the spark plug was wet with fuel.
The air filter looks a bit dirty so I removed it just to see if the engine would start better but it made no difference.
If the fuel did not contain stabilizer then the carb may be gummed up. I don't really want to remove the carb to do a thorough cleaning. Is there a product I can spray into the carb while the engine turns over that will clean the carb?
Any other suggestions?
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2011 Grizz 700 here and so far the only thing I've been told about replacing my coolant is that I should put the same color stuff back in that came out. But other than that nothing specific. A search through both the service or owner's manual gave no coolant info other than capacity. Here's a comparison of the old and the proposed new...
The stuff on the left, what's coming out, is a blue-green. I'm second owner and only put about 75 miles on the machine, so I have no idea how old this coolant is.
Stuff on the right is the new coolant the guy at the car shop suggested, and is more of a pure lighter translucent blue. It's Pentofrost NF, whatever that is. He said it's what's recommended for European, including BMWs. Here's the bottle...
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Somehow I lost all of my spark on my 350Big Bear, its a 1990. It ran well for maybe 3 days! Thought it was the carb. Cleaned it 4 times. It was losing power at midrange. Got worse and worse. Finally nothing!
Are these good coils? I was thinking I could swap?
2002 Honda-200cc: primary 0.4(ohm-200) secondary 9.0(ohm20k)
1990 Yamaha-350cc: primary 0.8 secondary 11.0
Hope someone can help with this one.
We took our 1984 Honda TRX 200 to the shop and they had it for about 2 weeks before they finally called and said that they had cleaned the carb and changed the battery and that it had started up.
We went and got it and when we got home it would not start so we called them, they said bring it back in, so we did. They called us the next day and said they changed the spark plug, and that it was running. We went and got it again and it ran when we drove it off the truck.
We parked it for about an hour because we were going to get ready to go on a ride. Well, it wouldnt start again.
So we called them and they said the last thing they could do was order a new CDI box and put that on. I decided to just buy it myself, so I didnt have to pay them labor again. We put the new one on today and its still not starting.
Does anyone have any ideas on what we could check to see what in the world is going on with this thing?
Please and Thank you
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum and am hoping someone out there can help me with a no spark issue I am having with my ATV. I have the service manual and I have replaced/checked everything that I know how with the exception of the Digital Igniter Unit. Does anyone know how to test this item to verify if it is bad or not. Thanks in advance for your help. Stacey
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