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A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:aargh:
I have a 94 sportsman 400. It sat for several years before i got it. I have cleaned the carb it will start and run for about 5 min then it will flood. I have torn it down and cant see anything wrong. has anyone else ran into this problem any hel would be great.
Somehow I lost all of my spark on my 350Big Bear, its a 1990. It ran well for maybe 3 days! Thought it was the carb. Cleaned it 4 times. It was losing power at midrange. Got worse and worse. Finally nothing!
Are these good coils? I was thinking I could swap?
2002 Honda-200cc: primary 0.4(ohm-200) secondary 9.0(ohm20k)
1990 Yamaha-350cc: primary 0.8 secondary 11.0
Hope someone can help with this one.
We took our 1984 Honda TRX 200 to the shop and they had it for about 2 weeks before they finally called and said that they had cleaned the carb and changed the battery and that it had started up.
We went and got it and when we got home it would not start so we called them, they said bring it back in, so we did. They called us the next day and said they changed the spark plug, and that it was running. We went and got it again and it ran when we drove it off the truck.
We parked it for about an hour because we were going to get ready to go on a ride. Well, it wouldnt start again.
So we called them and they said the last thing they could do was order a new CDI box and put that on. I decided to just buy it myself, so I didnt have to pay them labor again. We put the new one on today and its still not starting.
Does anyone have any ideas on what we could check to see what in the world is going on with this thing?
Please and Thank you
Hello i have a linhai 300 of the 2004+- era. I had a cluch problem so we changed it. After changing it has a hard time to start going. When you pop it into gear and press the gas it barely drives but when it starts going about 20km/h it start driving well the acceleration is normal and everything do you have any idea of what could be the problem
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
I've recently acquired a 1995 Kawasaki Lakota KEF300A1 that seems to have a pretty slack chain. I've found an owners manual that talks about the procedure to tighten it to spec, but it mentions "inserting a bar provided in the tool kit into the axle housing and turning it upwards/downwards"... the problem is I don't have the tool kit that came originally with the ATV. Its hard to tell from the picture (and not ever having done this before), but it looks as though this "bar" may just be a pry bar/leverage tool. Is that so and I could just use a screwdriver or anything that fits into the hole? or is this a specialty tool and do you know where I can find one?
So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
fighting this thing for a month now.No spark at plug.
New ignition coil,pick up coil,stator,reg/rectifier,all new wiring.Started it up today rode for an hour shut it off.Tried to start later wont start.pulled plug wire it firing a blue spark while starter button is pressed.Tried new plug no change. It stared a couple times an ran for few seconds then died.Will CDI act this way? The reg/rectifier get pretty hot is this normal?
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