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I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
By Brian Simmons
I have a 2003 Polaris Predator 500 . I know my valves need adjusted . Here recently I`ve had to bump start it . And i noticed a power differents . Now it won`t bump start . Did i mess anything up ? Or can I still just adjust the valves . By the way does anyone have a video of how to do a valve job on it ? Let me know ASAP !!!??? Thank you
When it comes to adding more power to your ATV, the first thing that usually comes to mind is bolting on a slip-on exhaust. However, that usually means you are also bolting on a lot more noise. HMF do...
got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
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