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Hello. I am a new member as of today. I had a quick question to ask. I recently was driving mt HONDA RANCHER 2004 GPSscape 400 and my display stopped working. I was driving the atv and all of a sudden the speedometer and the service lights went out. Also the lights stopped working. I am still able to shift gears, change from 2wd to 4wd, and can still select if I want EPS or Auto. I have checked my fuse box and have changed a few of them around. It did not change anything. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what had happend. Thank you for your time- Trenton
Ok...I'm gettin' me juevos ready to do an oir filter clean....
Went to my local harley/quad dealer and he had me purchase the No-Toil kit (Cleaner, Air Filter Oil, Rim Grease)
What I've read is that the No-Toil cleaner will NOT clean
other oils off air filters....just the No-Toil oil....
So, I've also read that others have cleaned their air filters
in the kitchen sink, used gasoline, or used flash solvent....
Looking for advice as I've mentioned I'm very mechanically
I'm going to wash the air box seal in the sink and give it a good dry....
One more thing......No-Toil or Bel-Ray for filter oil?
So i was riding the other day and my quad randomly shut off. It started back up and ran completely fine for a little while and then it started idling terribly.
I cleaned the carb and changed all the jets and everything except the float due to the rebuild kit not coming with one and it actually runs worse then it did before.
It will run and idle decent now but when I give it gas it dies.
Does anybody know what could be wrong?
I also changed the spark plug and air filter along with the oil and oil filter.
Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140.
The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
By Ed Morris
I have a 2001 Quadmaster. Bought it from the original Owner. Its in Excellent condition for a 2001. The guy said there was a carb problem when I bought it. It seems like it is not getting fuel. I took off the tank, cleaned it, replaced the gas with fresh Gas, Installed a New Gas Valve. Then rebuilt the carb with a Carb Kit. Started it up and same damn thing, seems like its starving for gas. It will also backfire out the exhaust while trying to accelerate. Now the weird part. I started it the other day and it ran great. We went for a ride and it ran as if nothing was wrong with it. Started it the next day and back to running crappy again. I was like WTF !!! ... Anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be?
Following on from the brief interlude in the "introducing myself" thread....
In a nutshell, I acquired a YFM250 Moto 4 (1991) for cheap recently with the previous owner citing "no spark, needs a new magneto coil and I don't have time to fix it"... anyway I am dubious that the magneto/generator is the issue and thinking more along the line of ignition coil as after a clean up of the magneto I was able to get a rather decent voltage reading off the magneto with pull start and resistence readings seem to check out that the magneto is all ok (all 3 x phases = 1.2 ohms and no run to ground)
None the less I ordered a new Ignition coil and Magneto/generator coil and am waiting for them to arrive.
In the mean time I cleaned up the current Magneto, popped in a new battery and sparkplug, checked out all the wiring harness, all seemed good except I came across the "neutral switch" wire was broken.
After wiring up a new neutral switch wire, the neutral light now comes on (small win) and the starter relay (attached to rectifier) now clicks. If I hit the starter switch on handle bar the starter motor spins and if I pull the cord starter I get a spark on pull....YAY!! I'll try and attach a video below if possible.
So onto the starter motor. Starter solenoid seems to work A-ok, even if it looks crappy and starter motor spins as it should when I hit the start switch....but here is my issue.
When the starter motor runs it turns Cog #1 and Cog #2 (see photo below)....but the chain in the back of the starter which I assume is the timing chain, does not move and there is no apparent movement of the piston in the cylinder.
If I turn it by hand (per photo) or with the pull starter however the chain moves and the engine turns. However cog #2 rotates but not fluidly with the "Crank" (part I turn by hand) for the lack of a better word to use if that makes sense?
Is there a grub screw or similar on Cog #2 that fixes it to the center shaft to make it all turn when the starter motor is run? Could there be a part missing? Previous owner had the starter apart so could be possible?
The outer/front part seems to be on a key-way so not sure how to remove this easily to check how Cog #2 is attached.
What am I missing here?
Hi all, I was gifted this Bayou but she's been sitting quite some time. It won't crank using the factory start button but when I jumper the starter solenoid it cranks but there is no spark. The key has power coming in on the white wire and when turned on supplies power to the brown wire coming out.
I guess I should start with testing the pickup? I heard I may be able to jumper the wires coming from the pickup with an LED bulb and it will flash? I noticed in the manual that it should have around 110 ohms resistance so I'll check that as well. One thing I noticed was that the starter circuit relay has power on one of the black wires with the key on- this doesn't seem normal as I'm assuming the black wires are grounds? I think one of them comes from the start switch, travels through the starter circuit relay and then grounds the starter relay?
Mine is a 1991 so it has the 7 wire CDI (ignitor) and a 2 yellow wire alternator ( as opposed to the later 3 wire type ) with another 2 wires for the source coils (black & red wires ). The pickup wires are blue and black I do believe. Any help appreciated and yes I will test the pickup ASAP.
I'm trying to understand how the system works and I don't understand what the yellow / red wire from the kill switch does- I assume it gets grounded when the kill switch is "on" and therefore grounds the CDI so it can't activate the ignition coil? I noticed in the diagram that that yellow / red wire looks like it may be grounded by the ignition key switch when in the "off" position?
I also don't have 12v power at any of the wires going into the CDI- doesn't the CDI need to be powered? I also read on this forum that someone used a GM HEI module in place of the factory CDI just to test it for spark- does anyone have any info on that?
I hope I'm not missing something simple!
Here is a link to the diagram for my bike (which was posted by another user): https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/13742-1988-bayou-220-lost-spark/?tab=comments#comment-101193
Any help appreciated!
By JimandJacki Cariolano
Hello to the group, I am working on a 96 timber wolf. Runs great until it gets good and warm then starts missing and puffs smoke and dies. Plug then is black and sooty. Clean plug and let it cool and then it runs fine again until it gets warm. Engine has decent compression, carb it clean. What am I missing?
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