skidooer_3

Sound like a solenoid issue.

Replace the pump with a snowmobile diaphragm pump she'll be fine pump wise. Peacocks usually leak because of worn o ring. When connected most fuel pumps have arrows on them to show flow direction.

I have boiled carburetors in hot water for 1/2 hr and sometimes that worked for me. If its internal and it cant be reach with high air pressure then you have to soften it up some and hope it either dissolves or melts apart. Think me crazy if you like but sometimes disperate things require disparate actions. Lol

This may be a suggestion you may have or have not heard anyone suggest you do. I have been a mechanic working on bikes and small Equipment for 50 yrs and I have had at time put a lit torch to the body of carburetors. Remove all plastics and o ring you can find before doing this. I use a lit soldering torch the same used for soldering plumbing. It will burn out any impurities that may be in the small holes that compressed air cant blow out. After heating the body of the carb to a hot enuf flame to burn dirt out then use compressed air again. Try it and see where itll take you. Put all OEM settings back to where they r suppose to be.

After reading your post you said you tinkered with cleaning the carb and now the idling is erratic. Double check the long needle to make sure the clip didnt fall off. Set it into 3rd notch and see what happens.

It looks like a 89 and the last digits are 68

Try valve adjustment. Be surprised at the difference that'll make. Also check heat range of the plug your using and compare that plug to the ambient temperature your running in. Hot plugs and cold plugs do make a bike run differently

Sounds like the carburetor needs to be tweiked. I have bought and used a few Chinese carbs and all of them need tweaking.

If you put new rigs in and if you broke one you may be getting blow by causing too much crank case pressure. Most valve covers with a tune in it should have a hose on it and probably feeds back to the breather box. Check out parts schematics on line and see if there is a hose. If it does then you'll need it.

Any 10w40 oil will suffice

If you don't have the neutral light on when it's in neutral that bike will not start. Probably either a faulty neutral switch or a broken wire. That neutral switch has to be grounded in order for the light to come on.

If you use a test light on the green white pulser coil then that light will short out the pulse you need. Remember that light is a test light which requires + and - to work. If you use that i can't see you getting any spark. Here is a list of what would take out your spark. I personally think if you tested all your switches you have a shorted wiring problem or a open issue. No spark; spark weak: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap or spark plug lead trouble Spark plug cap not in good contact Spark plug incorrect Pickup coil trouble Igniter trouble Ignition coil trouble Battery voltage low Ignition or engine stop switch shorted Wiring shorted or open

If you use a test light on the green white pulser coil then that light will short out the pulse you need. Remember that light is a test light which requires + and - to work. If you use that i can't see you getting any spark.

As far as i know there shouldn't be any voltage at the coil. That coil is suppose to be the same as a transformer. The power comes through the igniter which gets it's power from the magneto. If you have 12 volts on that coil i think you need to find out why. A shorted wiring harness may be the cause. I've never ever seen voltage on a coil except years ago when you needed a battery to step up the coil and that system used points and condensers, that bike is all electronic. That coil has 2 sections to it. the Exciter does what it's suppose to do it's designed to excite the primary windings of that coil and then the coil will step up the excitement to a much higher voltage across the secondary winding hence the plug wire like maybe in the 20 or 30,000 volt range which is needed to throw a spark across that spark plug. Unless someone can prove me wrong the only voltage at the coil is when it's being excited with power from the magneto to the exciter to the coil. Any shorts or grounds will interrupt the flow required and therefore, no spark. 12 volts is on that bike for the starter and lights and run accessories that you may put on it. That's it.

First thing you need to do is bypass the kill switch and bypass the ignition switch. May have to use a jumper wire on the ignition switch so spark can flow thru to the coil. Easy to do if you can get the service manual and follow the instructions there. Also, check the specs of the Igniter (21119-1369) then the stator assembly (21003-1276) and also the pulsor coil part number (59026-1092). I had worked on many of these bikes and it's usually either the stator or the pulsor coil. Although any of the other's mentioned here in my ramblings will cause a no spark situation. Also, check the specs on the ignition coil and the plug boot. The pulsor coil should not show any voltage if your doing a ohm test, and nor will the stator assembly. If you find any voltage there then you probably have an issue with the wiring somewhere. Also, the voltage regular has no ties with the spark system. All that puppy does is convert the stator AC to battery DC to keep the battery charging. A good regulator should measure out at the battery with at least 13.5 to 14.0 volts, if not and the voltage is 12 or 12.5volts DC then all your getting is battery voltage providing you have a good battery. Your problem is a simple diagnostic fix altho you may not like the price of some of the parts once you find the issue or issues. Before you do anything get a service manual. All the electrical specs are there and use a good ohm meter like a fluke or something not one of those Walmart jobbies or some other crap meter. Good luck

also check the gears to make sure they aren't worn to a point that the chain will jump over the teeth causing excessive stress and snapping the chain. Pay particular attention to the gear on the crankend. Make sure it's not slipping on the crank. Good luck

i never said valve seals will let coolant into the crankcase i simply asked a question re the valve seals as were they replaced. Blowby comes from a broken or worn rings and usually when a valve job is done valve seals should be replaced. a broken gasket anywhere in the coolant train will allow it to gather up in the sump.

a missing seal or broken o ring in the coolant passage will also let coolant into the crankcase.

If your start button wiring is shorted you are hitting a kill button. Disconnect the starter button from the harness and jump across the solenoid with a screwdriver and if the bike starts and then dies after removing the screwdriver then it's not the starter button, but i'm betting it is.

This being a twin cylinder engine it's not all that complicated to time up. Each cylinder has a chain and a cam shaft at the top of each cylinder. Remove the side cover to get at the lower part of the chain where i runs around the crankshaft sprocket (gear) and look for the marks. Then remove the cover on top of each cylinder and check the marks on the cam shaft. Turn the engine over until the intake valve opens and closes on each cylinder and when the piston comes top dead center block it so it doesn't move then line up the T mark on the top gear and then do the same for the other cylinder. Both pistons will then be timed when the pistons come to the top. Check both tensioners at the same time and make sure there isn't any slack in either of the two chains. If there is then you may need to invest into buying new parts. Without knowing anything else in regards to your problem it's hard to help you out. A service manual is what you need before doing anything so i attached one for you belonging to a Brute Force 750, the timing procedures are the same as for the 700. good luck Kawasaki KVF 750 A-B_1 Brute Force - Service Manual.pdf

Not only did you bend the valves i think you also had a piston with ring problems. Also, did you replace the valve seals? Could be getting blowby on the rings. In regards to coolant in the crankcase i say there's a seal missing or an o ring broken somewhere.

i'd check for an electrical issue first.

Take another look at the position of the throttle cable and make sure the clip on the long needle is in the middle. Those shuttles can be a little bit of a torture if the cable isn't connected properly.

I had an arctic cat 550 side by side and when driving in a straight line and after taking my foot off the pedal it would make a noise like something was hitting the underside of the bike. Found it is a common thing apparently with those hikes. Dealer told me it was one of the grimlins in a.cats