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skidooer_3

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Everything posted by skidooer_3

  1. You may need a new wiring harness. Seems like you have two wires in the harness shorted and they may come and go, depending on if the wires are tight or loose. I have seen wires burnt off inside the insulated plastic coating before.
  2. I looked at your video. In reference to the oil light flashing, yes that's ok just as long as it goes out when started. Its an oil pressure detector. No oil pressure when started but key turned on yes it will flash. Upon start up you get oil pressure and the sensor detects it and the light goes out. In regards to the oil leak in the rear end or front end, that's obviously another seal issue and dirty mud riding does wear out the seal prematurely. If oil is coming out, water is going in. Especial attention needs to be given to the rear end because not only is that your rear end gear box its also you brake clutches and if dirty water or any foreign material of any kind gets in there youll have a major problem. There are no shoes on the rear only brake clutches. And that rear end doesn't take the same oil and the front. The front will be ok with 10w/30 motor oil in it but that rear end takes a special mineral oil. So don't skimp on that rear end. By the looks of those threads on that style of tire, you will definitely be going through wheel bearings. Good for the mud but not good at high speeds and that vibration from those lugs will take out bearings prematurely. The bearing may look good but sometime you need to completely remove them and see if there is any movement on the center race compared to holding the outer race. There shouldn't be any movement on those wheels when you pull out and push in on the top of those wheels. I notice the snorkel on the front of the bike, so its been mud ridden quite a bit, so expect those problems to persist. If you have to replace the bearings don't get the originals get a real good quality bearing to replace them with. Don't get any of those foreign ones, like KMC or sh**. Put your money in good quality ones and youll lessen your aggrevations twice over. The electrical brown wire is the power wire to your starter solenoid. Check for loose wires. Good luck. Wayne
  3. When you removed the cover to get at the clutches, if you noticed you should see a switch sorta like a toggle switch. Make sure this switch didn't get tripped because if you did trip it, then that would cause your problem. You can check that out first. That switch is there to deactivate the bike in the event you have either too much of a worn belt or if the belt were to break. Its there to stop the engine so the clutches don't over rev.
  4. If your in the U.S. then your oil is in quarts, but that bike is foreign so its a metric version. It should tell you right near the dip stick tube if its a 1000ml or 2000ml. one litre is 1000ml. Just get a conversion chart from the net and itll tell you the difference between a litre and a quart. Also, if oil is getting out of the rear end then if you ride it in water, water is getting in, so keep it full until you can arrange or afford to have the seals replaced otherwise youll have a rear end gear problem. Good luck
  5. But changing the seals and such shouldn't have had anything to do with the electrical. So it sounds like me that you may have a fuse blown. Do you hear any clicking like a solenoid click when you push the start button? If you don't then I recommend you check all your fuses. You green light will come on when the bike is put in neutral because that's side of it gets its power when the neutral switch get the ground it needs to complete the circuit. That's a different fuse than the starter solenoid fuse. Those fuses should be in the battery compartment somewhere if I can recollect properly.
  6. As far as I know that would be the only way it could get in there. Unless the unit has a snorkel kit on it. Foreign materials may get in that way. The casing only houses the drive and driven clutch which is connected to the two shafts coming out of the crankcase. Seems you have them off I would replace the seal anyhow just to be safe. Not that they cost that much. Good luck
  7. I still say its the cv joints themselves not the cv axle. Hope you find your problem.
  8. Sounds like you have a problem with the throttle cable to the carb . If that cable sticks or is even remotely re routed wrong then that would make the cable too taunt and therefore take away some of its length. Try turning the handle bar too and fro to see if anything happens. If it does change anything then I will say try rerouting the cable. Also just to be on the safe side check the new carburetors main needle that's the long one that goes down thru the center of the carburetor to make sure it is clipped in. The clip should be in the center notch it will appear to be a little loose when you hold it and move it side to side but it shouldn't be able to move up or down. Also, check the rubber boot between the carburetor and the engine for possible cracks or broken flange. That would cause it to race also because now its running way too lean. Get that fixed immediately if it is. Too little gas and too much air will damage your engine. hope this helps, good luck.
  9. I think I may have solved the stalling problem with my 400 Can am. I removed the 5/30 oil that was in the bike and I put in a heavier grade 15w/40 dinosaur oil not that synthetic crap. I changed the plug to a colder range and I went for a full day yesterday in the mountains and I didn't have a single issue with stalling out. Rode it in rode it out trouble free.
  10. Well if your sure its not the cv joints or the swing arms I have to say that kinda puzzles me. However, I have runned out of suggestions. Without being able to see or hear it for myself I have no idea where to tell you to look next. Did you have all four wheels of the floor when you did the cv test?
  11. Tighten the inner nut to 95 foot pounds and the outer lock nut to 65 foot pounds. That should be sufficient.
  12. Some people call it a trigger coil or a pickup coil. The best meter to use would definitely be a digital meter. However, the reading that youll get may differ some because you may not have the same type of meter that Kawasaki may have used. As it seems like you have the ignition key already bypassed, then that illiminates the ignition set. Therefore the only other issues has to be the stator itself. Youll need the reading given out of a shop manual in order to test the CDI, I have been around kawasakis for years and I don't ever remember replacing a single CDI. Im not saying it may not be your problem but be sure before you replace it. They are not cheap. If the ignition coil specs and the pickup coil specs measure up then its either a bad ground or a broken wire somewhere. That's what I would check before replacing the CDI. If your getting spark sometimes and then not id bet money on a corroded ground wire or a loose wire.
  13. Here is the info you need from babbett. The oem number is the ones with the dash and four digits following it. The other numbers is like is said before are the sizes for the seals. all seals you need are on the right. The left is the magneto side. The right side is strictly the clutches side. Order these three seals and your good to go. 92049 SEAL-OIL,TC 35X50X8 92049-1452 ( this seal sits in the hole for the drive clutch on over the crankshaft) $7.35 92049B 92049 SEAL-OIL 92049-1528 (this seal sits in the hole for the driven clutch shaft) $8.85 SEAL-OIL,HTC 30X45X8 92049-1575 [this seal sits at the very back of the driven clutch) $8.85
  14. The secondary parts are probably located in the transmission casing section. By the way to check the bearings. When you remove the clutches grab a hold off the crank end and the secondary shaft end and forcefully move them up and down. If no movement there the only replace the two seals. They both will be required to be pulled out. Don't worry about damaging them if you have the two new ones to go in there. When you replace the seals get a couple of pieces of plastic hard pipe the same size as the outside seal measurements and use that for a seal driver. That way the seals will go in evenly and you wont damage the seals. I just had a look for the seal for the secondary and its a 92049b seal and it too is located in the crankcase section. This info should help you determine the seals to order. Good luck. touch base if you need help anytime.
  15. The seal is a 92049 right side crank seal for the primary clutch its measurements are: 35idx50odx8t The bearing is 92045 those numbers are in millimeters as the bike is foreign. Only the U.S. use sae standards now. Might be a good idea to replace bearings and seals for both. However, only replace bearing if it has play in it because I think its installed from the inside out so that translates into a big major repair otherwise don't touch the bearing. Also use this link to bike bandits. 2010 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4X4i KVF750F Parts, 2010 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4X4i KVF750F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com By the way you need to look in the crankcase section for those parts.
  16. If its has all 4 wheels on the floor yes it will be a little hard to push. Lift the 4 wheels completely of the floor turn all the way to the left or the right it doesn't matter and spin the two front wheels they should feel like notchy when spinned. This is the cv joint giving you the problem with the clicking sound. The rim nuts torque at 38 foot pound and the front axle nut with the split pin torques at 145 food pound and the rear nut torques at 195 foot pounds. Hope this helps.
  17. I have never used an auto coil before but a coil off a yamaha or a honda or any outside coil with one lead should work. If it has two tabs, then one of them is a ground.
  18. Two more places you should look. First check the trigger coil resistance and if its up to snuff. Try checking the key ignition. There is a continuity check you can do for that also. Otherwise, you can run a jump wire on the wiring harness side to elimininate the key. once it is jumped out and you get a constant spark then you have your problem. Use a small wire to jump with until the neutral light comes on then the bike should fire up. If this is too complicated then dont take any chances on it unless you know what your doing.
  19. im not sure of the torques on those nuts but the answer should be easy to get. I do have a service manual that will tell me. When i get a chance ill look them up.
  20. If you can pick the bike of the floor all 4 wheels. Then turn the front wheels all the way and while turning them you should be able to slightly feel some resistance such as a knotchy feel. I cant really explain it to you other than the fact is the wheels don't turn smoothly. Don't run the bike while doing this. Unless you have full control over the torque backlash youll get when throttling it.
  21. Yes there was a recall on that bike, but the parts you had replaced are not the parts im talking about. That part holds a double ball bearing. The axles run into the cv joint which is closed in with a bellow rubber boot and that's full of grease. That's the part im talking about.
  22. If you have the rear end jacked up off the floor and you don't hear it, then that pretty much confirms my suspections about the cv joints. To check the swing arm bearings put the bike back on all fours and just lift the each side one at a time and youll feel some play when you take the strain on the bike. Even better have a friend lift the bike for you while you look at it.
  23. There is a seal in the back of the clutch and its a PTO seal for the drive clutch. Its probably a bad bearing in the back of the seal that's the cause of your problem. Replace both and oh yeah, check the clutch fly weights also. They do wear out on the bushing and the pins. They should be checked every 1500 kms. for you that's about 900 miles. Sorry for the metric stuff.
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