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Similar Forum Topics
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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By kantrud97
Hello i have a 2005 Bombardier Outlander max xt 400, i recently split the case to fix a oil leak. while in there i took out the oil pump and i cant find the torque specs for the oil pump to go back in, i tend to over tighten everything so im trying to go be the torque specs so i dont break anything.
Thank you in advance
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By Am2007
Hi everyone,
Outlander 2006 400 XT i have replace the startor cover and right after i did that the oil light is on and not turn off, i check the wires and checked the oil level, everything seem to be normal quad is starting without any problem and rev just fine. i did not want to ride it since im not sure if it is faulty sensor or not so just be safe i did not let it run more the a minute or so.
I have read in the owner manual that i need to clean the oil strainer every 200hr unfortunately i never did that, my service manual that i have does not even indicate of such a thing. so i did some search around and it seem like canam split the manual into 3 parts
owner manual
service manual
engine manual
I have the first 2 but i can not find the last one, part number 219100232. If someone can guide me where do i find the oil strainer so i can clean it i will appreciate it. im going to do an oil pressure test tomorrow to check how many PSI i have, just to make sure.
Thanks
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By Bobbywolf
I am working on a basket case for a friend. It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB). It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
Anyway, first thing is first. I checked compression, 150psi. Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time. I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages. It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
The bike runs. It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration. Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean. White strap, with no black whatsoever. So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot. It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air). It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on. The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there. I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
Anything big I am missing here? I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue. This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.
Thanks for any assistance.
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By Topendcol
First issue was fuel pump wont start once ignition has been turned on. Replaced the pump as I had one on hand, than noticed no power so replaced the fuel pump relay as that was were i traced the power to. Still nothing so further inspection looks like signal is coming from the PCM (FLR B20) but not switching the the brown wire to the fuel pump. Ive checked the operation of the bank angle sensor and it appears operational. Fuses and wiring all appear OK. The engine stop relay also tests OK. Ive been through the repair manual and diagrams but to no avail. Fully stumped, any tips would be helpful. Thanks
Col
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