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So I've had my bro-in-law's 4 wheeler to get it running again.
Ended up buying a new aftermarket carb, cleaning fuel tank, cleaning petcock and it works near perfectly .
put the petcock to PRI for about 5 seconds , turn it back to on, pull full enrichener , start it up (starts right up), slowly release the enrichener and put it in gear and go up down the road. Slow, fast, idle etc all good
BUT then out of the blue it will start missing badly (by this time the motor is hot), to the point I can't move the ATV.
Then out of the blue, maybe 30 seconds later, it is back to normal and I can go up and down the road for testing just fine.
I'm trying to get the ATV in tiptop shape to return to him, but bugged by this miss, I'm sure this machine will come back to me if it keeps missing...
Thanks in advance
BTW I am mechanically inclined, but not an expert on this atv...
By Joe Dickerson
I decided to replace the rings and piston on this machine because it looked like the plug was being fouled by oil. When I removed the right side of engine to inspect the clutch pack, I found 2 small round pieces with tiny expansion rings in the bottom cover. It looks like "clutch pawls" according to the illustration, but Id like to be sure. I saw that there are 4 of these in the new gasket set.
Can someone help me here?
I thank you in advance
Ok guys be easy got a lady here. Yes blonde, but not dumb:yes: Just got the new starter for the quad and wondering if I "really" need a clutch puller since I have to take both primary and secondary out to access the starter? I don't have one.
Has anyone done it without one?? I'm gonna start on this tomorrow am so any and all comments will be appreciated,,,a little nervous bout removing the clutch anyway.....wish me luck!! thanks!!
Neighbor dropped off his 2010 Ranger 400 HO. Said it was missing and backfiring. I replaced the plug as it was carboned up (kids use the side x side for chores and it is only idled around yard) Unit ran great, sent back home and it ran great for about 5 hours of run time and then it wouldn't start. He brought it back and I changed the plug again and it would start but would not run great. Pull plug and it was really wet. I suspect the carb needs cleaning and that is the direction I plan on going unless someone else knows anything about these units. ( I have never worked on one of these).
If you know of something else I should check let me know.
Also I am looking for a service manual for this unit.
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So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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