Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

klf300b constant 12v on spark plug wire


bigjigjim
 Share

Recommended Posts

dont know how it got to be a reported post, but here it is from bigjigjim ...

If I kill the ignition everything is off. Once I turn ignition I can turn it over but there is no spark... I checked cdi, regulator, and stator all of which appear to be doing there job? When I tested the ignition coil it showed resistance so i flipped the meter over to DC to see if it was just a bad plug (which is brand new) and as soon as I touched a ground it was reading 12v without even cranking it over. I hit the starter to see if there was any change or pulse and even while cranking it over there isa steady 12v, no fluctuation, pulse, delay, just a steady flow of 12v. Unhooked cdi and repeated previous actions with no change in results. Next thing i guess is to lock myself in the garage and rewire based on schematic found in the Clymer I downloaded here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think with the patience i possess, i might just look around for a good used wiring harness ...

My old man and I have a long going friendly competition to see who can wind up with the best bike for the least amount of $. This started about 20 years ago when we bought 3 1970 Yamaha Enduros that had been sitting behind an old ladies shed for over a decade. They had been sitting for soo long we literally had to dig them out because they had sunk in the mud up to the forks and frames. We paid $50 for the trio and spent 2 months wrenching and restoring. Replacement parts were either fabricated or found in a bone yard. By the time it was done we had $90 invested in 3 of the best running Vintage bikes I've ever seen.

Great bonding and learning time over the years and now that I have 3 boys and one on the way, I'm passing the hobby on to them... Best sight in the world is watching your 9 year old ride his $80, 90cc Sunl still covered in grease after fabricating a swing arm and rebuilding the carb. They don't always turn out the nicest machines but we have just as much fun riding them as we would on a new rig and get alot more pride and satisfaction out of it because we brought it back to life. Any knuckle head with a pay check can buy a quad, not a whole lot of guys are capable of bringing them back to life.

Anyway, I picked up the klf for $100 off cl, he went the next weekend and grabbed an `82 klt200 for $100. The bet on the table is whoever spends more $ making their bike reliable has to drive to the others house and trailer the winners bike to the farm for a weekend of trail riding and buy lunch at the greasy spoon we ride to. We live 3 hours away from each other and we both live 3 hours away from the farm. I was up there this weekend and his cdi is fried... If a rewire using factory harness gets the klf running I'll have bragging rights for a while.

Not to mention the previous owner painted the plastics of his klt black:no: and my klf plastics are original with no cracks! I'm kinda excited about getting it going:elefant: it'll be a real nice, all original Vintage

Edited by bigjigjim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cdi = brand new

Stator = replaced wires from coil to connector, tested resistance to factory specs! Producing voltage

Pickup coil = producing voltage

Regulator=brand new

Ignition coil and plug=brand new

Kill switch is allowing it to turn over so obviously not an issue...

I've traced every single wire on this bike and rectified any bad spots and insured proper placement/connection on every single one.

I'm lost guys helpa brotha out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Strike37G
      Quick question about bolt on valve cover (circled). Is this used for any type adjustment or connected to anything or is it a service vacuum port? Wanting to install a vacuum fuel pump and look like a good spot to connect vacuum. Thanks to all.

    • By PineAppleCawks
      Morning all, hope everyone is off to a good start with their day.
       
      about 2 months ago I bought a 95 bayou 300 for a hundred bucks. It was obvious the thing was gonna need some work and I'm up for the challenge. Just looking for some advice on how to get this thing going. The wheeler has an array of problems and I've done a good bit of reading around and learning about the machine lately, but I'm stuck at an impasse and not sure exactly what I need to do to proceed.
       
      So to start with the stuff that was obvious to me; The wheeler has definitely been flipped, the handlebars and steering column are bent, both front and rear racks were bent and have been cut in places to allow the previous owner to bend them back into a rough idea of what they once were. Along with this the little box on the handlebars with the key and lights was completely missing, The ignition wires were hanging out the side and twisted together and the light wires were just freely hanging down below and were also cut, as they have no bullet connectors on them anymore. to deal with the loss of the reverse lockout they strung a cable through a hole in the plastic and attached a random handle to it.
       
      As a preliminary I went ahead and purchased a info box complete with key and reverse lockout and a voltage regulator (as I had read they commonly go bad). I have a small question about the ignition wiring, but I will save this for later as this brings us to the actual problem. No matter how good I do at replacing parts such as this I will never know if any of it has worked because I cant get the transmission to shift at all, but most importantly I cant get it to shift into neutral. I did some research on the problem which consistently lead me to something having to do with the spur gear behind the secondary clutch. I pulled the clutch cover and inspected, Everything was in place with no loose bolts or anything. I went as far as to remove the spur gear and the levers and springs. I could not find any visual degradation that would lead me to believe this part is the issue. With time running thin in the day I went ahead and put everything back in according to the manual. for a brief moment I was very excited to find that the shift lever was actually giving me some sort of tactile feedback and felt as if it was shifting, but this was short lived and it all seemed to jam up and stop doing anything after a few seconds.
       
      When I had the clutch cover off I had my son actuate the shift lever both up and down while I was laying on the ground looking at the spur gear. It seems that every once in a while it was able to grab the spur gear and spin it, but this will ONLY happen if im shifting up. It gets completely jammed trying to go down. Occasionally I can get it to spin partially as I am shifting down, but in those situations it freezes and wont spin any further even if I try to coax it along with a screw driver. What this feels like on the shift lever is there is no feedback. All I feel is the resistance of the spring and then it hits the a spot where it just stops the lever from moving. I get a very distinctive metal on metal "tink" and that's it.
       
      Anyway this is my big hang up at the moment. If I cant get the wheeler in neutral I cant test to see if any of the electronics are working, let alone see if it will turn over for me. As a side note the pull starter is busted, when I pull it I just get the resistance of the spring and it doesn't seem to engage with the motor at all. When the clutch cover was off I grabbed the clutch and spun it clockwise which proved to me that the motor has compression and freely spins.
       
      So that's where I am at now, and I am more or less out of ideas as to what I need to do to either further diagnose the transmission or (fingers crossed) fix it. I figure all the other stuff can wait, as this seems to be the big hinge point on the project at this moment.
       
      I wont be at the farm till later, but when I am I will make a short video of the spur gear so you guys can see first hand what's going on.
       
      I want to thank you guys in advance for any and all advice you may be able to give me. I am glad to have a resource such as this forum and look forward to hearing from you guys!
    • By Frank Angerano
      This is a good question asked by @Johnny Chancellor. I put it in a new topic so it does not get lost.  We all know we need a cdi box but I bet a lot of the members here don’t know how it works. This is a good explanation of a cdi box including what it does, how it works and what “cdi” stands for. 
      Ive posted two links here. Feel free to add to the list! 
      https://www.elprocus.com/capacitor-discharge-ignition-cdi-system-working/
       
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_discharge_ignition
       
       
       
    • By keroseneandgrit
      Hi All,
       I've been going through the manual trying to get the charging system on this old LTF230 to work properly,  and ran down sections 8-6 through 8-11 in the manual; http://www.crservice.dk/Suzuki%20ATV/LTF250/LT-F250_01E.pdf#G2.1000137
      I checked the resistance of the generator coils, verified they are within range, checked the open-circuit AC voltage of the generator and found it to vary between about 24-60V on all three legs, and then replaced the regulator/rectifier.  When I tested the new regulator/rectifier, the tester probes give me the correct voltages doing the diode test.  However, when the engine is running and rectifier attached, it heats up and at an idle produces around 9VDC, but when I rev the engine it drops to around 1VDC and heats up, as most of the energy appears to dissipate as heat.  I am testing the DC output with only the 3 wires from the alternator connected up to the regulator unit.  Is this a bad regulator/rectifier, or do I need to connect the negative to chassis ground and positive to the battery terminal before I see something around 13V from the regulator? 
       
      I took off the cover and removed the stator coils, they are in perfect shape and this is not the issue.
       
      Also, I have hooked the battery to the starter relay, when i click the starter relay closed the starter motor will turn when it is removed from the engine, but when installed it does not have sufficient force to turn the crankshaft of the engine but simply makes some noise and vibrates.    Should I replace the starter motor or take it apart to inspect the brushes? I'd like to get the charging system and starter motor to work; as I'm tired of cranking over the engine by hand.

      Thanks in advance! 

    • eManualonline.com Save 20% OFF on orders over $50, Use Code: BLAZE


      eManualonline.com Save 20% OFF on orders over $50, Use Code: BLAZE


      eManualonline.com Save 20% OFF on orders over $50, Use Code: BLAZE

    • By Spooky
      hello all   as a newbie to this forum I am trying navigate around to find what is a good fit   I have several Bombadiers  Rally 200,  500 and 650.  to say that parts sourcing is an issue is an understatment.  anyway  looking for a service manual for a Quest 650 as I have to remove the engine assembly..  crank failure I think.  If anyone has one and wants to share it would be appreciatted.
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...