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Hey, Hey, Hey ... I'm lov'in winter ...... ... Hope you enjoy the video !!
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
By Jeremy Morris
If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit.
I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada
Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now.
When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
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I have a 1998 Yamaha big bear 350, new to this. When its cold it is very difficult to shift. Once its warm its ok, however, my old feet don't like the shifting. I saw on ebay a hand shifter conversion kit. Any advice, I live in the Low Country of SC no hills, I use the machine around the farm for corning and scouting.
I never intended on doing a swingarm swap on a bike who only had 500 miles on it. But, plans change. Here's the bike the day I brought it home:
I took it to a nasty ditch around the corner from the house. It let me down miserably.
I then added a Highlifter Signature Series 2 inch bracket lift.
And EPI clutch kit:
Then, I added 28 inch tires.
Then went and played:
Found and 1986 lt160f that has had the head removed. Firstly, the engine has sat outside in the elements for a long period of time. The timing chain is rusty but their appears to little or water in the oil. Do you think that it is worth salvaging and if so, what would you do to motor to remove the rust. Thanks
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