Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It looks similar to an Arctic Cat neutral switch but its hard to tell from the photo see if there is a wire missing from the left side cover it should go inside the engine case.

Posted

The brown is part of the wire marking. I still can't match your machine. You may have to verify the full VIN.  They did make a DVX 400 in 2004, but in 2006 they only had the DVX 250. 

Attached are the schematics for the 2004 DVX 400 and the 2006 DVX 250.  There is no match for that connector. It does look original (nobody hacked it) 

 

2004 DVX 400.jpg

2006 DVX 250.jpg

Posted

Based on that, the 2004 schematic should be the one, meaning no changes were made in 2006. 

Peel back a bit more of the wire covering, zooming in to your picture, it appears both the blue and brown wires are marked with a second color.

Looks like to me brown/green  and the blue wire has a second color, but can't make it out.

I normally work on utility Arctic Cats, I never owned a DVX. Usually have no problems finding the right schematic which will tell you what that connector does.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Sorry, just got  2006DVX back from a guy who was welding crack in swingarm. So I am 100% sure that thing is a throttle position sensor. My question will it run correctly without it being hooked up? It has an aftermarket carb, and no where to hook it? Look at number #59 on pic of 2006 dvx carb that I included.

2006 artic cat carb.png

Edited by sandman001
Posted

I found the service manual for your machine

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2006_dvx_400_service__manual.pdf

 

I don't know why there would be a sensor there. You should have a cable type throttle attached to the carb. I don't see that listed on either schematic so that is confusing. 

Try this link for the schematics

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2000_thru_2009_atv_and_snowmobileSnow_Wiring_Diagrams__NOTE_LARGE_FILE_459mb.pdf

 

Mike

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By OldATVowner
      Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks
    • By Maxg_57
      Is anyone still active on this club
    • By Ant-Knee
      I am trying to rebuild an engine for a '97 Kawasaki Prairie that I recently picked up. There is one head bold that just won't let go. Nothing I do seems to make a difference. I have been putting penetrating lube on it for two days straight and I am afraid it is going to break on me. What is your best advice for getting the sucker out? I have tried a rechargeable impact, a pneumatic impact and penetrating lube.
       
    • By Rockbottom
      Replaced stator now red reverse light stays on in all forward gears and when neutral light in on 
      When put in reverse the light goes out
      any ideas how to correct
      thanks ahead
       
       
    • By T37Mark
      HI everyone. New to this forum. I have 98 Kawasaki Bayou 400 with an apparent electrical issue. I have the Clymer manual, but I am not exactly sure where to start. The issue started a month ago and the neutral light would go on and off intermittently. Eventually it went completely off , and I thought it was a shifting issue. I took the case off and checked the clutch and all mechanical shifting components are good, so I think I eliminated that. The switch sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Last time I tried, I did hear a clicking sound near where the battery is right before the light went out. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Hoping this is an easy fix.
×
×
  • Create New...