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Admin thank you for showing the log, the only DL that were successful were on the 03/07 date. none of the previous 8 attempts were successful Funny how all the past attempts have two logs at the same time, I understand only 2 a day but I was not able to DL once until the 03/07 Seams to work now, must have been a bug on either side. Thanks

Thanks guys. So I scored another parts bike , possibly! And now that small hole in my exhaust blew apart into a huge 2inch hole right where the 2pipes join into one !!! So loud and backfires like crazy again . I hate riding it now because of the attention it draws... But anyways, my current parts bike, has good pipes up to and past the join , I want to take it off and weld it on to replace the damaged portion.. But get this ! I tried to take the pipe off my good bike to replace it with the parts bike pipe, but The darn nuts on the header bolts are seized on there and basically morphed into the bolt. I already snapped one off trying to get it out ! I didn't want to proceed beyond that. Do you think I'm better off just cutting out a portion and welding it in 2 places instead of trying to replace the whole front part of the pipe ? Another thing I just thought of , was to weld a new bolt onto the old one , but it's a tight spot and I might not be able to actually do it (haven't really evaluated it yet )

Dash still flashing from 9to 0, but now it stops at 0 ! Thanks for this info. Tommorow I'll try to have another look at it and figure it out , again! Possible there is a shorted wire somewhere. Notable that once I got it running good and turned it off , I then proceeded to put everything back in its place and plastics and seat on etc... I put the CDI box back where it belongs. Maybe there is a shorted wire somewhere in around there . I'll check though and get my multimeter out for the rest of it ...

Definitely check the start button. Most start and kill buttons are poorly weatherproofed.. if at all !

Well the standard procedure is check there is resistance through the cdi charge windings and the cdi trigger windings down on the stator plug, then crank it over and check there is some voltage produced at the charge pins and a momentary voltage at the trigger pins on the plug. You need a good spec digital gauge to detect the momentary trigger voltage, but an analogue gauge the needle flickers and is easy to see. , If there is voltage in both windings then we check they are getting to the cdi unit. If there are those two voltages, and perhaps a 12v feed if needed, plus earth and a disconnected kill or a connected kill in some cases, then, if everything is ok, the spark should be very reliable. I would be suspecting the switches or the wiring. There are things that can go wrong in the engine though, like flakes of metal, or metal dust build up, that can short out the magnetic field between the magnets in the flywheel and the winding cores. If it's a flake of steel it can move and intermittently kill the trigger coil's output. I'd check for voltages out of those two windings, then look carefully at the wiring again.. short perhaps to frame ? Oh, and is the dash still flashing ?

I finally got to the wiring today. The Bayou will start easily. I now have to find a dirty or bad connection or check the start button. The solenoid works fine. It fires 3 or 4 times and then will not start unless I jump it straight to the starter post. The critical thing is that it starts and runs well when it does. Again Mech, thank you for your help.

Ha.. Ok. Good man.

Just went out and tried , cleaned the contacts , and even tried connecting the two wires together, cranked over but still no spark , darn it

If the bendix has a sprag/one-way clutch, it may be that playing up.

You used the key ! The key switch has dirty contacts or lost movement in it's mechanism.

Thanks .... So he got a new battery for it , and I had it running great except when I pressed the throttle it would big out and die. I ended up cleaning the carb and then it ran perfectly after that , I revved it up half a dozen times and then shut it off with the key to finish putting it back together for a test run . When I went to start it back up ... NOTHING.... I immediately checked to see if there was any spark and no there wasn't... So I'm back to square one again ... I tried combinations of coils plugs plug caps and wires ... Nothing worked. Im going to have to go from the stator up to coil again with the multimeter... Gahhhh Oh, there's a few wires with the insulation off them , I wiggled them and moved them around to see if there is any spark .. but none still. I don't know how it just went from sparking fine to nothing just like that . Thanks , and I'm not quite sure now thinking back on it . Also thought I'd have the darn thing going by now! But back to square one again. No spark again

It doesn't hurt to ensure that the fuel tank is venting properly, if it doesn't then the pressure can cause carb flooding. Some Yamaha's have gas caps that use ball bearings in them to prevent fuel loss if the machine tips over. These can get stuck and create problems. I'm not sure if these type of caps are used on their quads but I've found them on the off road bikes. The caps can be taken apart and the steel balls removed.

Hi all, Looking for some help on a starter/bendix issue. Can Am outlander 450 2017. While cranking to start, the starter spins and engages into the ring gear. After a few seconds the bendix retracts while still spinning and there is no damaged teeth on the drive pulley.

Really great advise and info. It all makes absolute sense. I did have a problem with the float needle in the beginning. I replaced it and reconditioned the carb. This is also when I did the top end. Thanks guys

Good call Mech! I have never seen this happen but generally the first thing i do is check the oil and if its over full or smells gassy or feels just not oily, change it immediately. Glad you got that sorted out.

The fuel starts evaporating out of the oil once it gets just slightly heated and the fuel filled fumes drowns the engine... just like flooding. Seen it plenty of times. At the same time the thin oil, carried with this excessive amount of fuming, gets past the usual oil/air separation systems and fills the air-box with oily fumes which separate out in the box. The float needle allowed the sump fill, but may not be the cause. Float needles can seal plenty well enough for maintaining the fuel level during a days use, but let enough leak through to flood an engine over night if the fuel tap doesn't get turned off. If the needle valve worked perfectly it wouldn't happen, but a lot of needle valves that seem to work just fine during the day can fill the sump if the tap leaks. I'd check the fuel tap because that test is so simple.. Turn it off, pull the hose and watch for a drip. I'd open and close it a few times checking it closed every time. If the tap is working ok then I'd check how the bike runs and consider cleaning the carb, but I'd check whether the float level seemed to be ok and was ok during a days use.. It is possible that someone forgot to turn the tap off one day, or, the tank breather didn't work ad pressurised the tank and caused the problem.

That should not have fixed anything but diluted oil, it should still run with gas in the oil just doesnt lubricate well and toast your engine. Generally gas gets into the crankcase when the needle and seat is bad and lets gas seep by and into the crankcase.

I'm familiar with the clutches on these quads, the difference is they utilize an engine braking system which is not on snowmobile CVT clutches. If everything in there checked out, then you may still have a problem relating to the electronic module. Could be its still not working properly.... Since they are likely not available new anymore, you'd have to find a "known good" used one which would be kind of rare. Good luck on your quest! (BTW, that's an inside joke - the quad you have was originally named the Quest I believe, at least here in Canada it was, haha)

This ATV has the CVT clutch. I watched the clutch and both pulleys engage as I think they should. This setup looks very similar to how a snowmobile clutch works.

I changed the oil and the problem went away. How does fuel get into the oil?

This is much clearer and understandable than the diagram I found. Again, Thank You. Cavry

This is what I'm looking at. output.pdf

Do you have a wiring diagram ?

I'll try that in a few minutes. That still leaves the heavy brown wire. Thank You.

The diagrams I looked at described both the starter relay and the starter solenoid as "relay". I think we should describe the one with the starter cables attached as the starter solenoid.. to avoid confusion. In the diagrams I looked at the colours were different but the solenoid had two small wires operating it, one of which was black, and that one went to the starter relay and bought the 12v to the start solenoid to close it's contacts. The other one was supplying an earth to the solenoids windings. Then there was a white wire which in my diagram was shown as being connected to the battery's positive post, but which could be attached to the solenoid's battery cable post/terminal and it would serve the same purpose of supplying 12v power to the main fuse and then the bike.