If that's all the metal in there then it's a good one .. haha. See in the picture of the slippers on page two it looks like those bits of rubber could have come off the outer edge of the fixed slipper, and it could have happened just as the chain came off.. especially if the bits were laying there under the slipper and hadn't been washed away by the oil..

Good, was going to mention looking for little chunks of rubber in the engine, but I figured you would do that. Good you got your parts coming let us know how you come out. Yes, if Mech says they are good, they will be fine.

It's not really rubber. The straight one that's on the tight side of the chain is really just to stop the chain from getting into a rhythm that causes it to flutter and twitch like a fan belt does at certain revs. It hardly touches the chain.

That second one goes up to a "T", which fits into a slot in the top of the barrel, under the head. You have to take the head off to get that out. I wouldn't necessarily say that the slippers need replacing just because of those two strips of rubber. They sometimes have bits of excess rubber hanging over the sides of the steel backing that can get worn through and drop off like that. I've seen it before. First up, is the one you got out damaged ? Is the rubber worn thin in the middle of it's length ? Are there grooves where the chain's worn ? Then, I'd try looking down from the top at the fitted one, with a light at the top or bottom, and look for deep grooves where the chain links wear, or bare metal showing on the slipper, or chunks lifting off the steel backing. If those strips had torn/lifted off where the chain rubs, there would be more of it, those wouldn't be the only bits and there'd be lots of rubber chips and mess. Look for the sort of wear and tear that would be expected if the slipper had worn right down to the self destruct point.. I'd check the chain for wear and consider replacing that, and the tensioner, but honestly, I've fitted lots of chains without changing those slippers.

The second one is a good price. You did good , because they would get for shipping on top of the part price.You got free shipping plus the gear if you need it.

Just checked OEM part $9.36 part # 90235-HAO-680 Nut, Lock,(20mm) o o o pp

Yup, it's the theoretical diameter of the outside of the threads. Once you get the file you will be able to figure the pitch, which is the mm distance between threads. That will be about 1.25mm probably. Good manuals eh ?

Well, that was fun, it seems like every simple thing I go to do on this Yamaha turns into an adventure, went to change the oil filter, which by the way is more trouble than it should be, housing came off in two pieces, that explains the massive oil leak, that's OK I wanted to flush out the oil cooler anyway.I think I will temporarily put it back together with JB weld while im waiting on the new part.