kvf700

Do you have a trailer which you plan on using the ATV to move? If so what size coupler does it have? If having to pick only one, I'd probably choose 1 7/8 just because they can be used on a 2" coupler in a pinch.

The igniter arrived yesterday, put it in and test rode. Really no difference. The surging wasn't as noticeable but still there and it only runs about 53mph.

Another update. Replaced the crank sensor, checked all the switches and sensors that feed into the igniter and the problems still there. Had the coils tested and they were okay. Ordered a used igniter from Powersports Nation for $80 bucks. Said they'd accept returns which I found very unusual considering it's an electrical part.

I googled it and going by product description there it does have both. A winch is something a person don't need often but when needed its a life saver.

Try reading ACV on the 200 scale. Dont know a bunch about your Honda but Harley which have a rotor-stator system will produce about 28 volts at a fast idle. As the RPM goes up so will voltage. Measure each combination using two of the three wires coming from the stator

Not knowing for sure my guess all your fasteners are metric. There is some crossover, such as 7/16 will work for 11mm, 1/2" for 13mm and 9/16" for 14mm ect. What I done is figure out what tools are needed to remove anything that might have to be removed during a normal outting and pack only those tools instead of complete wrench and socket sets. If something major goes wrong what good will it do you to be able to disassemble the machine in the dirt and not have the parts needed to reassemble? Think id leave all the speciality tools, pullers and big stuff at home. The exception might be the stuff to replace a drive belt.

I have a Warn on my ATV. It came with the machine when I bought it so not sure what the price was on it if buying separate. It gets used a lot (as snowplow lift) and hasn't given a lick of trouble. I bought a Superwinch for my sons machine for about $150 and its been good so far. Had a Sam's Club winch on my old ATV and mine was fine but a buddy had lots of problems with his Champion winch. When you look at winches a couple of features I'd insist on. Make sure it has a brake so the rope dont unspool when it's at rest. The next is the winch has a free spool feature so you don't have to power the rope out.

That's quite a list and should cover everything. I wasn't sure if you had a winch on your machine, if you do good. I carry a clevis, snatch block and short piece of chain which with winch can be a life saver. Just a couple more items I thought of; fencing pliers and a can or two of sterno. Are you going to be by yourself? If so try to be careful since you won't have immediate back up in case of breakdown or injury.

I may be faced with buying a new ignitor for my '04 Prairie 700. I'm considering going the aftermarket route since they offer performance enhancements along with being a fraction in cost compared to a factory replacement. Guess that leads to my question, which manufacturers produce the best part? I see glowing reviews for Dynatek but there are also a few complaints about issues out of the box. A good thing, it seems Dynatek is willing to work with the customers on resolving problems. If anyone here has experience with them or others, good or bad I'd like to hear it.

Anything is possible if you spend enough time and money on it. I see a couple big obstacles. For a naturally aspirated diesel the compression ratio has to be close to 20/1. That much c/r requires heavier duty internal parts than what needed for a gas engine. I don't think you can run the injection pump off the electronics like an EFI gas engine. It has to be timed to engine rotation to inject fuel at just the right time. All in all it is a project way beyond many professional engine builders.

Just an update. Talked to the Kawasaki dealer, they suggested I try another ignitor. At $460 I hate to buy one just to try. They also said it could be the crank sensor or coils. I put a timing light on it and when it surges the spark goes out, does the same on both cylinders. Probably try the crank sensor first since it's less expensive. Also talked to them about any possible problems caused by starting with the converter cover off. Dealer said it won't cause a problem electrically, the warning not to start is a safety concern.

Just had a second thought. I've pretty much narrowed mine down to an electrical problem. Yours could be fuel related also. I checked the pump for pressure and flow. Also removed the bowls and checked the jets for obstructions. So I'm pretty sure mine isn't fuel issues.

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The GPS and locator are good ideas. The tire repair kit will be extra weight unless its a plug type since id have doubts on getting the beads broke down. Green slime really works and eliminates flats from cactus and small punctures. I'd carry a few tools like pliers, crescent wrench, screwdrivers, wrenches to fit the fasteners on your machine and a hammer. Other items for your kit might include mechanics wire, electrical tape, knife (or leatherman), tube of silicone, flashlight, a good quality folding shovel, a couple ratchet straps and some poly rope. Guess that's all I can think of for now.

I'm experiencing a similar issue with mine. Talked to the Kawasaki dealer and all they could offer for advice is to start changing electrical parts. At $400+ for ignitors and controllers a person don't want to make many wrong guesses.

New member here and looking for help. At 200 hours the check belt light came on. Removed the converter cover checked the belt and followed instructions for the reset. Now I have a miss that starts at 35 mph and it won't go past 50. It acts like you are turning the key off and back on. Pretty well ruled out carburation and fuel flow. When I had the cover off I started the machine and noticed later a warning not to do that.