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Vertigo

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Vertigo last won the day on May 29 2018

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About Vertigo

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  • Location Rome, GA, USA

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  1. My non-running '08 450 hour 1450 mile 450 grizzly investment paid off! I paid a buck per cc...yup, $450. It smoked mosquito-fogger bad, was missing starter solenoid, a fuse, racks and a few small plastics, needed a rear ujoint, a brake caliper and lever. Popped in the fuse, plugged in starter solenoid and a carb clean out came next. After an oil change, seafoam treatment, and reseating rings by very hard and hot riding towing a 5' disc for two hours, it completely stopped it's bad habit! Changed oil and filter again (went synthetic), and have put a hundred hours of trail-busting and mountain climbing, everything is working perfectly, and not using any oil. My current task is to repair the winch, if possible. It was crammed jam-packed full of dust, rust, and mud. I disassembled it, cleaned it completely, found nothing overtly appearing broken, but it feels like the knob for freewheel/engage is "sticky". I mean, REALLY sticky-the Mitsubishoid rhombus-triad looking mechanism appears to not release, unless I pull or tap on it. I've not yet reassembled it, want to find out if the disengage action is normally this "sticky". Anyone have experience with this? How about a schematic, or manual?
  2. Is yours the AIR COOLED model, like mine? It has a small oil cooler, and cylinder/heads are finned, no water jackets. That manual seems to be missing...been searchiung for year. I was unaware they offered a water-cooled, belt drive BigBear that year.
  3. No, sorry, all the good stuff is listed. The "some other stuff" is miscellaneous little odds and ends...radiator, fan,
  4. Tank is complete, but gauges don't last. Tank has a petcock, but i wouldn't remove it and try reuse it, sorry.
  5. thanks for replies and pm's. No, haven't found them yet. Pored through the downloads to no avail. Seems the air/oil cooled 400 big bear is hard to find. The link (thanks ajmboy) is for the h20 cooled version, and has key differences. Also, found the 08 660 Grizz, but not the 450. Any help here, anybody? The pm'd links will not open, keep getting "files damaged or corrupted" message. Also having some difficulty with registration on another Grizzly site-keep getting message "you have entered an invalid email account"- despite checking it IS correct x4. Grrrr! Computers will be the death of us all!
  6. I have yet to find a repair manual for either my 2003 400 4wd Big Bear, or my 2008 YFM45FGXGR 450 Grizzly 4WD/irs Thanks in advance for anyones assistance, and yes, I have treid to google, and downloaded several, but in each case they were not correct ones...TIA!
  7. Too late to edit addition-its very possible to run w jump time-although will affect power/compression. If it the goes a second tooth, well, not likely to run. If chain is worn/loose/adjuster ineffective or guides worn, can often also see sign of chain rubbing on lower/front part of head, near cam sprocket, can see by removing cam cover on L side. Jumped timing will often cause an engine to "start hard", meaning it turns over less vigorously, may "seem" like a low battery or weak starter. Often the timing jumps on start up-as the starter directly turns the crank, the cam begins turning a second later-and if loose, jumps, causing late timing. lower compression. Timing also more likely to jump if shifting under full power at high revs. One other note-a loose chain can have the effect of making high rev operation feel more powerful, due to the dynamic effects of retarding cam events. This comes at the expense of low rpm operation, which affects idle quality as well as off-idle torque. Engine may "hesitate". An oil pump (or clogged filter) contributes to valve train wear-and worn cam bearings can exacerbate loose/worn chain, as can too much head milling for compression, or running without cylinder base gasket. With used equipment no one knows what was done previously.
  8. When the chain gets worn, it will often knick the case on the left side under the sidecover, below the timing chain front lower guide. If you see any scrapes there-or a broken aluminum case edge, pretty good bet you found problem. One that has a stretched chain/worn chain glides/malfunctioning adjuster will often run, but have a strange "slapping" sound, particularly at lower revs (where you can actually hear it above the normal engine sound). It will often be very pronounced while fast-cranking (boosting) or with spark plug out, and sounds like a sliding/slapping, not really a knock as such. That's the chain brushing against the case as it spins. I have removed plugs, and completely backed out the valve adjustments, for diagnosis. It relieves the cam from spring pressure, allows starter to spin faster, which accentuates the "slapping chain" noise scraping on the case, as compared to normal cranking with valves adjusted to spec/spark plug in. Hope that helps
  9. Despite report from your tech, I suspect timing. Recent work on three Bears of that era, the cam guides/chain do seem to experience some slack, and wear. Jumping time is easy on one with some miles, but there may still be enough slack that one might visually mistakenly believe the marks are accurate. I fear just tossing external parts at it will get expensive, not to mention possibly futile. May be time to do head/rings/chain and guides-it's gonna be more expensive, but the long term benefits will keep giving return in power and fuel consumption. Are the guides worn down badly? Adjuster working correctly? I am assuming he has pulled the left sidecover off and pulled flywheel/starter clutch to see chain and lower sprocket, guide bottoms, adjuster? What did compression check yield?
  10. I've got some good parts left over from my recent 4wd 2003 Big Bear adventure. Used on 2000-2010 Big Bears. Very good complete head-fits 350 also, came off 400 2002, Have timing chain, gear, guides, case & trans (2wd) Fuel tank, harness, misc. electronics, front shocks/springs, also have some other stuff. Most parts also fit some 90's models, (Kodiak 400 '93-'98), check it to verify. Located near Chattanooga, LMK what you need, offer, cash/trade.
  11. Can synthetic motor oil be used with this type wetclutch? Have read conflicting info online. Also wondering how to clean the crankcase, often I've filled crankcase with kerosene, let sit few days, then cranked engine with starter, finally draining the sludge and using compressed air to blow out and dry bottom end. Dont want to do this if the clutchpaks might be damaged. I've rebuilt many aircooled opposed fours, as well just about every type of car/truck engine, and have always used synthetic engine oils with great results, some running well over 200,000 miles, one over 300k. After performing cam break in with conventional oil, drained after 30 minutes, refill conventional run a hundred miles, drained. I then switched to synthetic and operated normally, doing a oil change at 1000 miles before adopting a ten thousand mile interval, using the highest-efficiency (smallest particle rating) filter available.
  12. Thanks frank, i think I located a 350 BB, not certain of year. Apparently they used the same valve train as the 400 (although the head is different). I've already obtained new rockers, de-burred and cleaned valve pocket casting lines, stellite seat ridges etc from the intake, and checked the valves and head. How much should the head be cut to raise compression, a half point or so? Was hoping to hear from someone who used the Niche cam, "more power, hurrrhuRRR HURRR!" and all, to get some input on output. I'm thinking i need to clean crankcase really well, any tips? Also, need to examine the oiling system to make sure it wont contribute to early demise of replacement. Appreciate your comment AJM. Improperly hardened cams can wear fast-and reviews do not seem to reflect well on other Niche products (cylinder kits), although I have not yet read a single camshaft review. I just don't trust the chinese mojo on scrap iron we shipped 'em...is Namura a more reputable piston? Any tips for a 9-9.5:1 piston? I've not found anything but stock 8.6, or full race (which i wont do-this is work beast, not toy).
  13. Couple of questions-picked up a too cheap to refuse 2003 YFM400 4X4, turns out has a wiped cam, and cam guides. Obviously in course of redoing top end, i need a new camshaft. Any suggestions/sources? I'm leery of teh "Niche" brand-unless someone can confirm they are suitable. I also see a "Caltric" brand available on line-but nobody posts actual lift/duration specs on their product. I don't need a crazy race cam, but a bit more torque is never a bad thing imho. I sure don't feel like paying oem usury prices-options include preowned-which may not be a bad way to go. Any thoughts/suggestions/experience? Thanks in advance. Oh, yeah, been searching for the manual for my OIL COOLED beast. I downloaded one, its for the water cooled submodel.

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