Dra O

will do. y'all go help some other folks - you've spent waaaaay too much time w/ me today. I was off today and am off tomorrow. i'll get carb back on soon and try to shoot short video of it running. 24k gold carb man

unsure if these pics help the tab wasn't this low when I got it, I do remember this - but the air stops once float reaches second line you mentioned 3/4 - the body of the floats themselves (black plastic pieces) are hitting the float bowl and won't advance further

yessir, the air cuts off when float reaches second line...

raise it up a hair more?

second float tab adjustment - a bit lower on the line

I am CONFIDENT that extra little push sets everything back in alignment - it HAS to be. going with between 2 and 2 1/4 for now - trying to fashion a tool to let me adjust air/fuel screw while carb is mounted here's a pic of float - at rest see the top line - blowing into fuel pipe it only comes up to the second mark - looks like i'm way off will adjust and repost pic in a few

here we go: I put the main screw back in and tightened it down to SNUG - then put a bit more bite on screwing it in and it moved an extra 16th of an inch, likely seating it back into the original position w/out any gaps. I can't see this happen but can feel it. As I take the screw back out, it "gives" a bit and then loosens out without issues. I'm SURE that's it - it seats once fully in.

yessir - post w/ pics from 22 hours ago show it in the same position - I tapped it LIGHTLY once, fearing i'd break the housing - and haven't tapped it since - and it was tapped straight down, not at an angle as to rotate the piece - it always had that little gap as far as I can remember - looks like it needs to be rotated just a hair but i'm not doing it - it's not moving around any i'm letting it stay the way it is

I've not removed anything at this point - afraid i'll damage things w/out the right tool(s) "When you say "downward from float" I assume you mean with the carb turned upside down" -- I mean away from the float bowl toward the center of the carb i'm not so sure about taking that piece out - the idling had improved per adjusting the air fuel screw - although I can see where the need would be to clean out the holes

but does it punch down or up? I'd think downward from float. but that's what i'd THINK - i'm no mechanic. both ends sit flush - I have oil soaking them now - if punch toward float it might break / chip the plastic housing

"The tube that's threaded for the main jet can be removed, it needs to be pushed upward and may require a small punch to loosen it. There are small holes in it that I believe davefrombc referred to." -- I tried to lightly tap that main jet sheath out (downward) but it didn't budge - I COULD squirt some lubricant down beside it and put a slot head screw driver on the sides (see pic) and try to knock it out but, with my luck, the carb would snap in half - or i'd scratch something up real bad ---- but if there are holes in that area (in the jet sheath), it does need to come out, huh? pics below of main jet: looks like there'd be a tool that "unscrews" this piece - see needle pointing to area in question the weird thing is that I've not had any small holes in ANY of the pieces to unplug w/ a wire... almost all of the videos I watch on carb rebuilds show them unplugging holes. my pieces have holes straight through them - see pieces on cardboard paper - the ONLY piece that is too tiny to clean w/ wire I have is #5 - but I can blow through it - and i can blow through the old #5 piece "I didn't see any pictures of the needle & seat (aka float valve) that is retained by the phillips screw - did you replace the o-ring on it already?" -- yessir, it was replaced - the o-ring was REALLY flat on the old one - the new one is nice and plump and fits perfectly (an entirely new float was included w/ carb rebuild kit) Frank, the float bowl gasket DOES fit back in the groove - gotta press it down evenly from all sides - i'd have been up a creek had I cut the thing gold jets - haaa! that's how I roll, brothers! I've no idea why they're gold - if they'd been green or pink i'd not have known the difference

i'll make it work. thanks. going to try the float bowl stuff likely tomorrow.

All internal pieces checked and cleaned. Float bowl gasket: unsure what happened here - it wasn't stretched prior to putting it in - it fit like a glove initially. will likely cut it at the screwdriver mark and permaseal the joint Assuming the attached pictures upload in order, picture #6 - it lies atop picture #7, under diaphragm - it is shiny - this is gas - is this to be expected? it sits directly under the diaphragm picture #8: center of carb - it's open - didn't want to try to remove the internal threaded piece - it looks fixed picture #9: can see light going through main jet in center - the screw/jet under this has a VERY small hole - I couldn't get one wire of a clean pipe cleaner wire through it but was able to blow through it w/ my breath - that hole is SMALL. picture #12 (last one): that hole at the bottom - does it have a function?

hilarious - i may take a pic of the pieces this time - it's not bogging as bad w/ air fuel screw not out as far. so let me make sense of this... they WHY behind it - and i likely will be thinking of this backward, but here it goes: -the air fuel screw mixes air and gas --- if it's too far in (3 turns), meaning that i can see or almost see the tip of it in the cylinder wall, not enough AIR? is able to mix with the gas and create the explosion? thus, backing it out to 2 turns, i cannot see the tip, this opens up the hole for more air to mix with the gas at a better ratio conducive to creating an explosion - this process is fine-tuned until there's not any bogging down (ie the best ratio has been reached for max performance). ??

i only read the top part of your post on my phone - laptop showed me the rest - i'll tackle those steps next. i didn't have to loosen the throttle cable and other piece this time - was able to turn carb on its side to reset the air fuel screw - i backed it out from snug to 2 1/4 turns and the throttle went in almost half way - this is progress. i may back it to 2 and see what it does just for kicks. getting excited about this - will keep you posted

took it to back yard and everything went blank. battery is new - it was a 15 amp fuse in front. thank goodness - was ready to throw in the towel. I ran it around my yard and, after it got warmed up, it bogged down BADLY while pressing the throttle - sounds flooded - had to inch back to workshop... uphill, of course played with the "governor" thing that taps in to carb to rev up/slow down the idle but this didn't help matters. I put the clip at 3 spaces versus 4 and this didn't help. I ran it without the air filter and this didn't help. you think it's still the idle screw on bottom of carb? I did loosen it up a bit like you mentioned - I think I can get a tiny screw driver up under it to adjust needle. ** if I do take the carb off again - not an issue - remember I came out 2 5/8 turns on the screw - do I need to go out to 3 1/2 turns or will this be letting MORE gas in and flood it even more? you're taking a LOT of time with me and I appreciate it, frank - I remain keenly aware that it gets old - but I appreciate your continued assistance. some good news: I may can get the bearings on all tires changed for under $300 at a local Polaris dealer - other mom/pop shops wanted $500

dig it - thanks dave. feel free to add any advice on the topic at hand! i'm a newbie with zero ATV experience

the smoke has calmed down - it's idling pretty good but still rough - no leaking under the machine - engine not overtly-hot after about 10 minutes of running - the whining noise has abated when I press throttle it bogs down a good bit - I even advanced it slowly but it bogged down about 1/4 of the way in -- when I stopped the engine and let it set for 2-3 minutes, it would start w/ no issues, I could open the throttle all the way and it would howl... but then I'd let it idle, try to push the throttle and it would bog down again I let it set for 10 minutes, had to press throttle to get it to run, it idled for about a minute before cutting off to adjust the needle valve, I've either got to remove the carb every time or bend the end of an old slot head screwdriver 90 degrees and hope this works - that's gonna be challenging I was able to open the movie attachment above w/ windows media player - unsure if you'll be able to

sage advice, frank. I was thinking last night I may've hooked a hose up backward but I filmed the entire process. the smoke is white - couldn't discern it having any blue tint but could be wrong. i'll look closer this weekend when it's in my back yard. were you able to see the short video? I can't open it on my work computer.

and I did have to add grease to both ends of the rubber piece between air box and carb - maybe it's this burning off....? i'll get it out from my crawl space this weekend if it's dry and let it run a bit - the wife was pretty angry about the smoke "but honey, I didn't know it was gonna smoke like that!" if it's beyond repair and I can get a few hundred clams out of it, tell me - I can take it. it's a 1999 and has 6100 miles on it

thanks for joining in, spock - yes, I know the part you're talking about - it went back in easily - and I tested it by turning it back/forth to ensure it remained operable prior to starting engine I reattached everything - had to sprinkle gas in air box but it started. it idled pretty rough - but it smokes like rip - white smoke - it also would rev slightly higher without me having touched the gas lever, then would go back to normal idle. it smoked a bit when I got it but not like this... I know it could be several things, but could it be the clean carb being "broken in" - if so, i'd expect the smoke to dissipate after a while air filter is new and gas is fresh the whining noise I am unsure about.... KQ first run after carb rebuild.MOV

I'm guessing the screw under the black hose in the pic is the idle screw - it's the only functional screw on the carb other pic was the junk in the bowl ** was I right on turning the screew 2 5/8" back? should I have screwed it down until I saw the needle, then backed it out 2 5/8"?

slide clip from service manual reads 5D40-4th - i'm assuming this is the 4th slot - I reviewed a video of me taking out slide and it looked like 4th slot pilot screw is 2 5/8 out - per service manual - I made it SNUG re: tightening it down - saw the tip in the barrel - then backed it out accordingly the idle screw adjuster you mentioned - this is the adjustable screw on the bottom of the carb? I would think this would be hard to reach once carb put back in but will see getting that beast back in is a kicker - I put forward-most side in first, as the coupling on this end doesn't "give" a whole lot - I may need to heat the air box side rubber connector to get it to soften - that thing will hardly depress enough to let me work with it. could I not simply get a piece of thinner, more-pliable tubing (like from a radiator shop) and clamp it really tight? once it's up and running, my aim is to post a video and have you listen to it at your convenience - unsure if can post videos

carb is out and cleaned - bunch of same crap in float bowl that was in fuel tank (almost sawdust looking crap). many of the holes on some of the internal screws were gummed up. the air/fuel mixture screw had half of an o-ring and no washer protecting o-ring from spring. everything from carb rebuild kit online fit flawlessly. going to be reinstalling carb but had a few more questions: 1) the float height: my manual says 13mm - i'm pretty close to this using calipers and following angle of float bowl body (I hope so, anyway) 2) the needle groove notches - I THINK mine was set on 3rd or 4th groove - I don't remember - any idea the factory setting? I figure the 3rd groove would be safe 3) I think I've read before where it's 2 5/8 turns out (on the air/fuel mixture screw (if that's the right piece) - is this right? 4) people talk of "too rich" or "too lean" - what the world does this mean? i'd like my quad to idle a bit revved up - that's just me - and I think I can adjust this on a piece on the side of the carb (took it off while cleaning carb - the end of it abuts the piece that opens the main valve - turn it one way, valve opens, turn it opposite way, valve closes) 5) after I install the carb, how will I tell if it's running optimally? remember, I've not owned a quad before - this is all new to me. 6) last thing: how long to hose lines last? my quad is a 1999 (300 LTF). i'm worried about crap or build up on the inside of the lines. would I be wise to replace all the lines going to the carb? I figure I could find hose online - like a 50 foot role of it - for cheap. does 0.5cm ID and 1cm OD sound about right? any help/direction continues to be appreciated

got it running today, frank. FINALLY.... 😀 the pump wouldn't prime until I filled up the tank to almost full (over the level of the fuel pump) - oh, and it helps to turn petcock to the, um, "prime" position (I am an idiot). but once I did this the gas spit out the other side of the pump. the engine idled and everything. pretty pumped about this (no pun intended). as luck would have it, however, once I turned the engine off I noticed the carb dripping gas everywhere, especially from the bottom hole - looks like a carb rebuild is next on the list. from what you tube videos I've watched it looks like the floats may be affected. alright, so I changed the oil last weekend - new ring, filter - everything. the oil looked really good in the window after filling. when I started the machine today, the oil in the glass turned light brown, like it had dirt in it. the old oil looked fine, just really dark. when I changed the oil I didn't tilt the machine upward to get ALL of the oil out of the oil cooling lines - could this be it? but the old oil was black.... or could it be simply, I don't know, bubbles in the oil that makes it look light brown while the engine is running? it's been 6 hours since I started it and I just checked the oil window and it's back to brown / normal again. probably worrying too much. I lined the underside of the innermost rubber petcock gasket, the o-ring and outer "bent" ring with a thin film of permatex and it hasn't leaked yet. thank you for helping, man - I may have screamed like a little girl once it idled, but there's ultimately no need to pass this along to anyone, m'kay? you do a great service to folks like me - you oughta have a tip jar or something. with your knowledge base, you ever think of making you tube videos? you'd have a great following. yeah, the one I bought is like half the size of the original and it lacked the valve on the back. I was told the back valve wasn't needed. I was able to salvage the plastic straw-like pieces that draw in the fuel - they fit a bit tighter in my original petcock. with the original I also put a thin layer of Permatex on the underside of the innermost gasket, a thin bead around the o-ring and a bit on the bent circular piece (likely didn't help here but whatevs) - and it hasn't leaked yet (this was about 1-2 months ago with gas in the tank). once I start riding it again this may change, but right now it's tight as can be.