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took the KQ out for a brief spin - runs really good in this warmer weather. got home - checked air filter just for kicks - perfect - bright yellow and dry - removed filter out and noticed water in bottom of air box. not a lot and it didn't get the filter wet. found drain plug, let it drain, recapped and good to go. how the hell did water get into the sealed airbox? I rode it near/around our lake but didn't submerge the machine (i'm not that brave) - at most I rode across 1/4 of water for about 20 feet. the machine has been under my house in a constant 72 degree, dry environment since last summer. lastly - any specific brands of solenoids you all like? RM Stator's looks good and has a 2 year warranty - but I thought stens made one at one time - I cannot find stens online. Before putting plastics back on (always enjoyable, like getting carb out) I replaced original solenoid with new one off amazon (<$10) - put ALL the plastics back on and it lasted all of 2-3 months until the ol' clickety click click click - bottom of amazon solenoid had rust on it, so i'm imagining rust on internal magnet - tapped it good w/ hammer but couldn't get it to loosen up. Took plastics back off, replaced with original solenoid and it's going good (at 20 years old). not gonna replace solenoid until have a reputable one - and I may put a light film of grease or permaseal around the joints to keep water out. thoughts?

RM Stator will rebuild/repair stators, too. Good to know.

measuring from a computer picture not very accurate, but it looks like if you got rid of the gaps you'd have room for one more magnet video from an arctic cat 400 but may help - start at 2:00 - your issue may be at 3:00 but i'm pretty confident you've already done this

great stator pics, frank - will help me in the future on the honda. i'd seen youtube video on magnets coming off, too. that thing sounds ROUGH, man. you'll get there

dig that advice, laval. thank you.

the ignition switches for sale online are connected the exact opposite way than in the pictures below: into the white plastic piece are the red and black w/ white stripe wires and the ones hanging free are the green and solid black wire - buyers of the switch comment, "hooked it up and it ran just fine" - but the wires are not in the same pieces as what came with the machine. I could buy an original ignition switch from honda but it's $50. on a cheap ignition switch from amazon could I not split the white plastic piece open and replace w/ the correct wires in the picture? i'd likely have to resolder the wires on the switch itself and I can do this - would have to mark which wires go where but don't know if this tactic would be wise - i'd be out $10-12 if it didn't work - unless someone with a knowledge of electricity can shed some advice

for my knowledge - two questions while thinking about stator: 1) you're checking stator to see if any of the coils are bad/burned, checking the pulse generator and testing the voltage/ohm readings on the stator and i guess the pulse generator as well to see if w/in specs? 2) when you take off the cover to get to the stator, does the oil need to be drained first? asking because I eventually wanna check the stator on the 1986 honda trx 250 I picked up - the wires coming out of it are loose - someone has been in the case before, apparently (no surprise)

Not even a $50 bill? But this one has KEYS, dammit - and LIKELY a title! But I hear ya. No tellin' how deep that wiring crap goes. Tell me this: is that battery scenario even possible? I mean, he said he ran the entire thing off that marine battery - starting it, using the winch, lights, everything. Isn't that too much power? I think those marine batteries run at a lower power setting overall - would it be powerful enough to start the thing? There weren't even any wires in the battery area - everything was hooked up to the marine battery. Odd - and beyond my knowledge. Rednecks are inventive, gotta give them (us) that! By the way - the Honda TRX 250 wasn't getting a spark - I dried out the CDI with a heat gun (versus oven) for a few minutes last night and it now has a spark. But it still isn't starting. I'll go back to that post for the other things to check. One thing at a time.

he likely can find it - he spent a few hours looking for the key last night - he's kind of a hoarder

you ever part anything out? I hear people doing this on ebay but wonder if they make their money back. carb likely good and I can rebuild that if needed - saw an original carb on ebay for a $175 but it doesn't mean it'll sell

pull start turned engine over - that's all I checked - didn't really know what all to check. I didn't check its roll - the owner is bad handicapped and and I wouldn't have been able to push or pull this 600+ pound machine. ground is soft and still moist from recent rain

Looked at this one-owner 1998 454 today. Pics below. Do you see TONS of cash being tossed into this thing? I like the low miles but I don't like the electrical "arrangement." 1360 miles - one owner that used it for hunting - owner said it has been outside, as is, for 5-6 years (he originally told me 10 years). -a marine battery charges EVERYTHING (I didn't think this was possible) - he did this primarily for the wench - a charged 12v battery didn't turn anything on the instrument panel - a charged marine battery would help but I didn't have one in my back pocket -no oil detected after taking off cap and I put my finger in DEEP. no gas in tank. brake fluid reservoir not dried up but has dark/old fluid -tires w/ good tread but cracking walls - some rims rusted but appear to be straight -air box dry but filter old/useless -original carb - didn't take out to inspect -foot shifter felt good/cycled through the gears -pull start worked but I failed to check for spark -and then there's the WIRES... and WIRES... and WIRES. Basically neuroanatomy 101. More like Arctic Cat Nightmare 101. New wiring harness on ebay runs around $70 - but this guarantees nothing. But the plastics are good Thoughts and opinions welcomed. "Run away" -- "You're an idiot if you pay more than $XX for that piece" -- "Don't even THINK about it" Pictures below - may involve a second/third page more pics

The medical term for your condition is not the new Coronavirus but ATVV - ATV Virus - sometimes called ATVF, or ATV Fever. The fever will resolve once these two are running, at which point in time the fever will spontaneously reappear, causing you to drive TWO hours away to purchase more toys. It gets worse. And there is no cure. Sorry. They look older than my '99 King Quad. They may be in the mid-late 80s?

Would this list meet your requirement prior to purchasing an ATV? Remember, I'm at novice level - these are things I think the average Joe could/should check. Feel free to comment and I'll add it to my list. Going to look at what's supposed to be a 1998 Arctic Cat 454 on Saturday - likely a bit too much machine for my level.

not going past half throttle? did ya check the, um, choke? what a project, man! those wires - good grief, that's literally freakin' neurosurgery right there - all hail to new harnesses!! that thing is freakin' SWEET lookin, frank - you'll get it running - a little here, a little there - and we'll all learn something in the process i'm going to look at a 1998 arctic cat 454 this saturday - talked about it before - I doubt it's salvageable and i'm not gonna get all crazy about it like the honda 250 - just looking - taking battery and plenty of tools - will post pictures soon

no spark. pulled ignition coil and got the following readings below. meter is on ohms. for primary coil resistance specs read resistance range from 0.16-0.2 - if meter correct I'm way overboard at 1.5 or 2 resistance without spark plug cap should be 3.6-4.5: I measured 4.15 on the 20k ohm setting, which appears to be in range. does this tell me the cap itself is bad? when I hook up the new spark plug, the reading is 13.1 (from green terminal on coil to tip of spark plug) - if this means anything simple solution would be to buy a $7 dollar coil off ebay back to work

I've done a bit here/there on the '86 honda 250. oil/filter changed, new starter, new battery, new starter gear, cleaned Chinese carb (gaskets, float, ports in good shape) - turned engine over using screwdriver on solenoid and it sounded good (unable to get ignition apparatus to work - it's toast). question: if I hook the carb back up, put some gas in tank and use some starter directly into carb, will the machine run on it's own per the screwdriver/solenoid method if everything is flowing right re: fuel? will I harm or risk burning/shorting any parts using the solenoid to turn over the engine?

can't open the departing scene, man! might send video to admin and see if they can post it for ya. then again, it could be my computer.

Hopefully not a total hose job. Air box and gas tank are in good condition if I wanted to part them and other items out, as Frank mentioned. And it came with a sweet, fully-functional back storage compartment with all the parts that could sell once it's cleaned up. If I can get $150 or so for all of those parts it won't be a total loss. Time will tell. I bought an electronic service manual off ebay for $6 for my '99 King Quad and it has helped a lot. I gotta open my computer when I need it and can print pages as needed. Here's a link to an ebay electronic version of what you might be looking for at $6.99. Hard copies and other electronic versions go for a lot more. It worked for me, hopefully it'll work for you - but you be the judge on whether this is the case. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TRX450R-ER-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-2009-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL/143428294696?hash=item2164fe1828:g:1b8AAOSw66FakcNp

you're telling me. i'm pretty sure (from my limited knowledge) this was the grinding sound I heard when I tried to kick start it. I can only hope. I was able to move one of the other gears in the main part of the machine by turning the outermost smaller gear, which is promising. ideally i'd need to take off outer gear housing and inspect for metal shards - but i'm not there yet... and will likely need gasket, etc.

starter teeth were basically smooth on this one - shreds of metal in upper part of gear box - 4-5 of the teeth on the starter idler gear were gone - nothing for starter to bite into plan: 1) ordered starter, battery and starter idler gear for around $100 2) might as well spend $15-20 on new ignition switch so I have a key to start the thing - I cleaned carb this weekend - lots of junk - diaphragm/spring intact - the main pin under diaphragm was just flopping around, not in the hole - float was intact - gasket intact - turned air/fuel screw out 2 turns to start with - also cleaned out trashy gas tank - petcock operable will try to fashion sheath of sorts for throttle cable using medical tubing from work - this should bide me a little time for now re: protecting throttle cable - original carb hard to find - just want to get the thing running if not running in a few weeks, set it aside, cover it up and either offer it for sale for $150 or more or attempt to part it out finally got front tires for king quad - once get these installed will finish that bad boy and get that project behind me

"I hear ya and agree, the best part about this type of situation is all the members that go through this get very good at pulling the carburetor off so making several adjustments gets less difficult." He's got that right - "Frank" was not the name I'd given him when he recommended that I remove my king quad carb AGAIN to make adjustments - but it was worth it - he's a great teacher - and you do become somewhat of an expert at putting it back on (and taking it out, and putting it back on, and taking it out....). here are some tools I used to help: old long allen head wrench (used to put furniture together) - grinded off end to width of air/fuel screw under carb: it's long enough to access from the side "ol' red" - rounded/sanded an old slot head screwdriver: comes in handy when inserting TIGHT ARSE rubber boot between air box and carb - this gave me fits to no end - a bit of grease on inner lining helps, too old open end 12mm wrench for throttle cable - thinned it out w/ grinder: helps with final tightening of throttle cable to carb - this was difficult to get started but eventually seats

Horrible, simply HORRIBLE! Are you kidding? They look brand new, man! Is it paint? Wax? Since I have no experience painting atv plastics, my only question would be how durable is it - if painted, how is the paint able to stick to the plastic AND REMAIN THERE? sanding / roughing and possibly priming the areas prior to painting likely helps with this. your experiment looks fantastic. and now i'm headed to the plastics posts. just read your post - makes sense - and it'll likely work. good test run for all.

https://www.d2moto.com/products/1985-1992-suzuki-quadracer-250-lt250r-throttle-cable?CAWELAID=230002470000188852&msclkid=6e9a568e5ee214d6d4960886939d82f2 unsure of the shipping from this site - most cables look like they run around $12-15 - Walmart uses third party sellers that have been decent for me on price and delivery

You know the drill re: youtube and carb rebuilds. you might take a look at that the post i have on here ("1999 Suzuki king quad fuel pump/petcock/carb advice") - it's pretty detailed and these guys helped tremendously. I had some really good advice on the float in that post. there are separate carb breakdown/cleaning topics on here, too. look on this site for a service manual for your toy - if not available here, look on ebay - I picked one up (PDF) off ebay for around 6 bucks. at least the beast is running, man! that's a HUGE head start i'll be following your post and seeing what the experts have to offer