Dra O

Given the number of experts on this site, you'll likely find MORE than you need here. It's truly amazing the depth of knowledge on this site. Welcome aboard.

Now THAT's funny. I've seen workers in my town riding side saddle - and they're some "larger than normal" boys - not two cares given The u joint on the outer axle I pulled was welded in place - 4 spots - strange. I pulled out the inner axle and it had a lotta rust dust on it - what does this tell me about the center of the transmission that connects the axles? That there's no grease in there? Stupid question but does it need grease, or is it a bigger u-joint that doesn't require it? I'd guess it would but i'm not the atv king. I think I can push back the inner cv boot enough to get to the center if needed- use something long to cram grease in it both sides....

Admin - I was able to upload it Community - you ever seen such a sight?

perfect shape - no reason for the left rear tire not to rotate freely not difficult to remove for a novice will try to send other picture if can decrease the size - it's even more perfect

that's what I think. if they last 8-10 years, even better. and i'm looking at doing all of them - the CV boots are dried up anyway - it's only a matter of time until the others start to grind. gotta figure out a way to move the 600 pound beast 30 feet to my workshop - I guess that's what teenage boys are for thanks, spock

if it were your 20 year old machine - that runs really nice - what would you do? the guy is reasonable, but I wouldn't know if I need just an axle... or also a u joint... or also something else. mechanics often find things ya really don't need - and not being a mechanic and a novice ATV rider helps very little. not trying to take up your time

thanks, spock - you ever see one pop through the metal like that? how the hell would you go about moving the machine since that wheel is locked up? not finding new ones on amazon or ebay - not checked cycle shops yet - but i'd guess $150 apiece

i'd seen that video before but couldn't find product online - I think amazon cancelled it - ordered some self-fusing rubber tape from china that i'm going to evaluate - worth a shot unsure if mentioned that I took KQ to atv guy - valves needed adjusting - clutch was slipping some - carb needle adjusted while there and it runs/idles the best it ever has - he said it was running too rich while there atv guy asked if i'd heard any popping noise from back end - I hadn't - 2 weeks later, I hear popping - today the back left wheel locked up - see picture will the wheel spin freely if I take off wheel and other inner parts? or is it doomed to never roll again, until axle is fixed? and can that area be welded or am I looking at a whole new back end?

anyone repair a CV boot without replacing one? mechanic told me I could clean area really good, then apply silicone to the hole - hole measures just under an inch long and is about a 1/4 wide and is on top of one of the front boots. I've seen "split" cv boots that appear to act as a shroud on top of existing boot - don't wanna junk things up but if it were clamped really tightly on top of existing boot wouldn't this be an option, however temporary? any input appreciated. gonna look around for this topic for a bit

Was wondering how things had been progressing, man. Your efforts will likely last a good 20 or more years.

water leak fixed, thanks to permaseal. bearings were replaced but machine sounds a bit louder from wheels when driving on street - not too worried about this at present. newest issue is the gears (i'm guessing the issues don't end on a 20 year old atv): - first gear is fine - switching to second gear there's a lull... then it finally grabs and goes - it's not a knock you out, atv rocking grab, but a slow grab and eventually a regular pull - I haven't tried it under any type of load - it's also harder now to pull up on the gear shift than before - I don't hear any grinding sounds when shifting - hopefully this is a clutch issue. I can try to adjust this. am I headed in the right direction?

That's crazy - and I'd think a significant loss of revenue for them. Hell, start making them with OPDs, tack on $300 more and maintain sales. The same thought ran across my mind, MarkinAR re: owners. It'll be here before long - ATVs, riding mowers and go karts. --> on a side note, do you work on ATVs in LR? I'm not too far south from you. Just curious.

yep - the seam at end of forceps goes all along the internal joint - I can push the box toward the rear and see the gap widening just a hair. don't see any other visible joint spaces or fluid/moisture. should be able to take air box out without touching carb. gonna hit it with a hose this weekend or next to make sure that's it - but I don't have any doubts. weird how I just wanted to check the filter and found this surprise makes me want to leave cap off end to let water flow but don't want any critters in airbox and it may affect performance so, silicone along outside joint after letting it dry for 48-72 hours? I wouldn't think it'd be an issue putting it on inside, as well re: solenoid - I agree - they're $30 but will likely last a lot longer. putting grease/permaseal on outside joints to prevent moisture won't hurt, will it? and yessir, it was water - no gas smell - no greasy residue

took the KQ out for a brief spin - runs really good in this warmer weather. got home - checked air filter just for kicks - perfect - bright yellow and dry - removed filter out and noticed water in bottom of air box. not a lot and it didn't get the filter wet. found drain plug, let it drain, recapped and good to go. how the hell did water get into the sealed airbox? I rode it near/around our lake but didn't submerge the machine (i'm not that brave) - at most I rode across 1/4 of water for about 20 feet. the machine has been under my house in a constant 72 degree, dry environment since last summer. lastly - any specific brands of solenoids you all like? RM Stator's looks good and has a 2 year warranty - but I thought stens made one at one time - I cannot find stens online. Before putting plastics back on (always enjoyable, like getting carb out) I replaced original solenoid with new one off amazon (<$10) - put ALL the plastics back on and it lasted all of 2-3 months until the ol' clickety click click click - bottom of amazon solenoid had rust on it, so i'm imagining rust on internal magnet - tapped it good w/ hammer but couldn't get it to loosen up. Took plastics back off, replaced with original solenoid and it's going good (at 20 years old). not gonna replace solenoid until have a reputable one - and I may put a light film of grease or permaseal around the joints to keep water out. thoughts?

RM Stator will rebuild/repair stators, too. Good to know.

measuring from a computer picture not very accurate, but it looks like if you got rid of the gaps you'd have room for one more magnet video from an arctic cat 400 but may help - start at 2:00 - your issue may be at 3:00 but i'm pretty confident you've already done this

great stator pics, frank - will help me in the future on the honda. i'd seen youtube video on magnets coming off, too. that thing sounds ROUGH, man. you'll get there

dig that advice, laval. thank you.

the ignition switches for sale online are connected the exact opposite way than in the pictures below: into the white plastic piece are the red and black w/ white stripe wires and the ones hanging free are the green and solid black wire - buyers of the switch comment, "hooked it up and it ran just fine" - but the wires are not in the same pieces as what came with the machine. I could buy an original ignition switch from honda but it's $50. on a cheap ignition switch from amazon could I not split the white plastic piece open and replace w/ the correct wires in the picture? i'd likely have to resolder the wires on the switch itself and I can do this - would have to mark which wires go where but don't know if this tactic would be wise - i'd be out $10-12 if it didn't work - unless someone with a knowledge of electricity can shed some advice

for my knowledge - two questions while thinking about stator: 1) you're checking stator to see if any of the coils are bad/burned, checking the pulse generator and testing the voltage/ohm readings on the stator and i guess the pulse generator as well to see if w/in specs? 2) when you take off the cover to get to the stator, does the oil need to be drained first? asking because I eventually wanna check the stator on the 1986 honda trx 250 I picked up - the wires coming out of it are loose - someone has been in the case before, apparently (no surprise)

Not even a $50 bill? But this one has KEYS, dammit - and LIKELY a title! But I hear ya. No tellin' how deep that wiring crap goes. Tell me this: is that battery scenario even possible? I mean, he said he ran the entire thing off that marine battery - starting it, using the winch, lights, everything. Isn't that too much power? I think those marine batteries run at a lower power setting overall - would it be powerful enough to start the thing? There weren't even any wires in the battery area - everything was hooked up to the marine battery. Odd - and beyond my knowledge. Rednecks are inventive, gotta give them (us) that! By the way - the Honda TRX 250 wasn't getting a spark - I dried out the CDI with a heat gun (versus oven) for a few minutes last night and it now has a spark. But it still isn't starting. I'll go back to that post for the other things to check. One thing at a time.

he likely can find it - he spent a few hours looking for the key last night - he's kind of a hoarder

you ever part anything out? I hear people doing this on ebay but wonder if they make their money back. carb likely good and I can rebuild that if needed - saw an original carb on ebay for a $175 but it doesn't mean it'll sell

pull start turned engine over - that's all I checked - didn't really know what all to check. I didn't check its roll - the owner is bad handicapped and and I wouldn't have been able to push or pull this 600+ pound machine. ground is soft and still moist from recent rain