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Mike Lee

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Mike Lee last won the day on August 1 2018

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About Mike Lee

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  1. I have found a defect in Outlander 450's where a stator 3 phase wire chafes between the frame and rear body module (plastic) at the fuel pump cap area. Before you go crazy and open the engine cover up to replace the stator, check the 3 phase wires first. The stators on these bikes are very well made. The 3 phase wires between the regulator and stator, unfortunately, were not thoughtfully routed. What happens is the wires chafe, and at least one loses all its insulation and rubs against the metal frame, shorting it out. Hopefully this will save someone hundreds of dollars in stealership fees.
  2. Have you ever had your 4x4 seal literally pop out of the 4x4 housing on the Outlander 450? You will want to try a simple fix to keep this from happening. First, get the old seal out and clean the seal surface on the 4x4 unit with brake cleaner. Take your new seal, and remove the spring. Untwist it and clip off a half a centimeter or so of spring. Don't clip off the wrong end! I do this because these seals fail far too often and this seems to fix the issue. Put it back together. Tap seal into place. This is where you get creative. I was able to cut pieces of shelving metal that clamped against the 4x4 unit to prevent the seal from popping out and holding them in place with zip ties. You can do whatever you think you can pull off with what you have on hand. Just get something on the 4x4 that holds the seal in place on opposing ends. Oh, and always replace the yoke o-ring. Those never retain their shape and will cause leaks if you do not do so. Inspect the wear ring on the yoke and replace if you can feel a fine groove where the seal rides. Remember to use RED locktite on the yoke bolt and tighten that bolt tight as ****. This is the one that always comes off during abusive riding.
  3. I have noticed, after repeated cases with our fleet of Polaris Aces, that the front control arms are weak pathetic pieces of junk. They will bend quite easily when subjected to abuse off road. Take a 6 inch ruler and hold it up against each leg of the lower control arms and check to ensure that they aren't bent. This may save you a trip to the hospital as I've seen them snap in half! A bent arm not only affects your toe (wheel direction) but also the camber.
  4. That's super cool. You just gave me an idea!
  5. With the Outlander 450, I have found that the #1 issue is premature belt failure. The belts only last about 2000 miles for the serious rider before the belt shows signs of cracking or completely fails. It is absolutely essential that when a belt is in need of replacement, you properly service your CVT. Remove the left side body panel, left side step well, and the CVT cover. Use the belt removal tool or your own fabricated tool to get what is left of the belt off. Use an impact driver to remove the primary (front) clutch bolt and secondary (rear) clutch bolt. Remember that they are spring loaded so hold onto them so they don't fly off. Also remember that the primary clutch is reverse thread. Then remove the primary clutch spider and outer sheave as an assembly. Mark with a file part of the spider and sheave so when you separate the two, you don't put it back together differently. Remove the spring and ring behind the sheave on the primary shaft. Then carefully remove the 1 way clutch, making sure to put your fingers over the 2 pins/springs to keep them from flying out, never to be found again. Insert the special tool into the primary shaft to remove the inner primary sheave/flywheel. Remove the plastic starter drive gear cap and starter drive gear. Take care not to lose the spring and washer inside the plastic cap. Remove the secondary clutch sheaves and then the spring, then the shaft, the plastic cam, then the metal star piece. Remove the metal plate that looks like a casket. It covers the selector position wires I believe. Now clean everything. Vacuum the CVT inlet/outlets and the inside of the cvt. Make sure the sheaves are free of black belt marks. Rub from center to outer edges on the sheaves with a scotchbrite pad to score the surfaces. I use brake cleaner for the cleaning. You will go through 2 cans if you had a complete belt failure. Look at the primary clutch governor cup (spider) and look at the ramps, rollers, and shoes. The rollers may have flat spots. Replace all rollers/shoes if this is the case. Check ramps for excessive lateral wobble. Check the primary spring height compared to the manual specs. Check the pins and springs from the 1 way to ensure they are in specs too. Remove the 1 way clutch bearings and the dust covers for them. Clean the bearing out of all grease and then repack with isoflex grease (expensive). Replace only one dust cover and leave the other side open. Have the open sides facing inward on the clutch when reassembling. Ensure that the bearing race surfaces are clean of grease so they don't spin in the housing instead of working as a bearing. Grease the center of the clutch where the pins slide on. Grease the pins before reassembly as well. For the secondary, remove and clean/grease the bearing on the outer sheave just like you did for the 1 way bearing. Remove the plastic piece inside the secondary and clean in there as well. Check the said plastic piece and the cam for damage. Lightly grease the inside of the secondary shaft for assembly. Check the secondary clutch spring against the specs in the manual. Brake clean spray the starter drive and cap but do not lube the starter drive. It wouldn't hurt to grease the ends of the starter drive. Clean and lightly grease the needle bearing inside where the starter drive goes. Okay! Reassemble and torque the primary and secondary bolts to spec. Ensure the belt arrows point clockwise. You should be good to go! Oh, be careful with the CVT case bolts. You barely have to tighten them, otherwise you will strip out the threaded inserts. Preventing premature failures hinges on proper servicing of the CVT, so at every service interval, open the CVT and clean. If the belt is glazed, cracked, etc... then replace it. It is well worth it to avoid the mess a complete failure makes!
  6. I know this post is old, but if anyone else needs help with the threads, the best way is to simply replace the sieve cover. They are aluminum and are very fragile. You do not need to tighten the plug much to get it to seal. They say the engine must come out but that is not true. You can easily tip the engine with a pry bar with the exhaust, engine mounts, and a few other components removed and you will be able to access the bolts and remove the cover for replacement.
  7. That's super cool! Never seen that before.
  8. New to this forum. I have done all the Can-Am training for technicians but have only worked on the 2016+ Outlander 450's. I've taken apart the Outlander down to the frame and know all the issues these things have. They are excellent ATV's. Right now I'm taking care of a fleet of 450's with well over 10,000 miles on them. If anyone needs help with 450 issues let me know.
  9. If you need any advice on repairs, I have been working on the 450 models for years and have seen all the issues these things have. Although the 570 is a twin, the 450 and 570 are very similar.

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