Twilight228

Is there a particular performance CDI you like Frank?

Update/correction. Swapped everything around today again between the two quads, and the stumbling is dramatically less notable with a CDI swap. New Question: I assume I should replace with an OEM CDI, but is there a better CDI made by an aftermarket manufacturer? Thanks again guys!

Good Morning All!, After a significant amount of reading and tinkering, I'm stumped. We have a pair of Arctic Cat DVX 90s (4-stroke), and one of them runs very rich at wide open throttle. I've cleaned the carb (which was installed new last year), verified the main jet (80) to be per the original spec, installed a new air filter, tried a hotter spark plug (CR6HSA), and adjusted the valves (tightened a modest 0.0005" but improved starting). The hotter spark plug may have help just a bit, but not appreciably. Just for fun, I swapped the CDI between machines, and that didn't help either. Fouling plugs very quickly, but not to the point the machine will not run or start. [black instantly] Logically, I assume I'm revving out, but the other machine doesn't "stumble/blubber" anything like this one. Should I try a smaller main jet? Any ideas you guys may have would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone.

*advice.......spelling suspect.

Thanks Gents. Used a combination of all advise. New Kymco carb purchased from eBay.

Thank you Frank!

Morning All, Wondering if anyone has had any success using aftermarket carburetors on the smaller ATVs? Picked up a couple Arctic Cat DVX90s over the weekend (2006 & 2008), and one of them has an aftermarket carb that needs to be replaced (it's missing the brass barb for the fuel line ). Both are the same Kymco power plant, but different frame/body. I swapped carburetors between the machines to test opreation. Both ran great, and seem to manage the electronic choke properly. Am I better off to buy the replacement carb from AC ($250), or try an aftermarket? Part of me wants a manual choke..... Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Thanks guys!

This is a great tip!!! The heat active adhesive used makes a great seal I've used marine grade heat shrink connectors (splice an mating) for the past ~6 years with our boat, and not a single issue related to the connector with steady salt water exposure. Note: Make sure you line everything up well. The heat activated glue doesn't let go once adhered.......not an issue of you have plenty of conductor length, just cut it off. If you're short on wire, prepare accordingly.

Do do you find the lighting controls (remote activation or programmable on) to be a "neat" feature, or is it improving the way your home functions? I've given a fair amount of through updating lighting controls, but haven't pulled the trigger. Current setup Amazon Echo - One echo dots - 2 (kids rooms) Old School Programmable Light Switch Timers - these I love. Similar concept, but they are less intuitive, and cannot be sync'd with if using multiple timer (obviously not on a central lighting control panel). They have to be reprogrammed occasionally to sync the time.

Thank you!

Does anyone have any experience on these trails they would be willing to share, positive or negative?

Out of curiosity, how do you draw the line between normal, and "weak" spark? Purely visual (consistent blue), or tester?

Chrome 95% of the time. Fast, easy. Will use MS Edge / IE if there is a issue with Chrome. I've only really experienced issues with Chrome when using net based file servers, specifically utilizing files active by multiple simultaneous users. Ironically, this post is coming in from Edge...….