Mech

Or... output.pdf

Have a look at this and see which regulator you have... output.pdf

Yeah and they are hardened and those ridges start new off being quite abrasive. Wood everyone.. If it gets stuck in the jet it only needs a bit of a charing and it will come out again.. no harm done. And it gets them cleaner than any bit of wire will..

Ha.. hard case. "They do welding tips.. they must be able to do carb jets too."..

Yes they change carbs, and the cdi are different too. Just those two alone should narrow it down. Then if you have it apart, they change valve sizes and gears and all sorts of stuff.. Bloody kids huh.. Happily mine don't/didn't (they're grown now) nick my bikes. They used to nick my pot before they figured how to grow it themselves, but never anything else.. That I'm aware of ! And, little buggers they are, they'd have told me by now some time over a "few" drinks.. and laughed about it. Also, on a lot of old bikes they used to rivet an aluminium plate to the steering head with Id on it.. I suppose that's gone..

A few more posts and you'll be able to download the manual. The manual I've got does all the years 85-90 and all the models for 230 and 250 of the same base model, so if the one in here doesn't seem to cover your bike yell out. There are 230E, 230G and 230S. The manual has all the carb details etc for the different models. You should be able to figure it exactly, especially so if you are used to checking parts out.

Er matey.. Those are welding tip cleaners, and they do ream holes out. I'm pretty sure. Unless you are sure they are aluminium I wouldn't use them for jets. The wood's the best.. Guarantee it. Try it. I've blown and given things a quick clean before with the wood, then because the hole looked a bit fuzzy or out of round I've reamed it some more (with wood), and the holes come clean and gain diameter that you can see sometimes. Varnish is quite hard..

Yup. Anything that might have a sticker or printed number on it might help. I've found what things were off before by googling vague component part numbers that weren't the actual manufacturers part numbers, but the number of the company that made the cdi/switch/coil for the bike manufacturers... (does that make sense !).

Oh yeah, never seen a set like that. I've got welding tip cleaners in a holder, but we should never use those ! Are the ones you have round section or square or triangle. I can't really see round section ones doing much good getting varnish or verdigris off. The wood works really well, and if a bit gets broken off you just burn it Gw.. Simple and nothing gets hurt or reamed out.

Year and market. Canada quite often has different options than America.

If you look, or try the tapered wood in the jets, you will find some of them are tapered holes. You need to clean them from the big side. The reaming out is a bit fussy and most of the time jets just have some particular hunk of dirt that you can see and get out, but if the jets are gummed up or corroded or anything then reaming them with the wood is the cure. I always do it..

All the books, and myself always say never poke steel or any metal through a jet. If the wire's skinny it will get a big bit of dirt out, but it won't get the varnish and verdigris out, and if it's a tight fit it might damage the jet. Jets need to be the right size, and nice round holes, and some of them are tapered holes.. Get a bit of hard wood, hickory or something like that, and slice a big slither off with a knife, then lay the slither on a bench and carefully slice it down to a slender three sided taper. One bit/whittling will probably do most of the jets, then reshape it finer for the tiny holes in the emulsion tube. Poke it in gently and rotate it. If it breaks off by mistake(which it shouldn't if you are careful), then char/burn the bit of wood out on a gas cooker or some such thing.

The carb model might narrow it down too. I'd look underneath that frame member further because the first of the LT250 we got here had the numbers on the lower frame but they were almost underneath, at an angle of about forty-five degrees form horizontal or vertical, and they used to get rubbed by grass and dirt etc so they were real hard to see. They weren't just on the top or side like we might hope and expect. And.. I'd use a scraper or knife to try and find the frame numbers. Wire brush and sandpaper don't work as well as scraping gently which sometimes shows up the slightly raised metal that's caused by them stamping the numbers in.

Bugger. Well you can probably figure out the exact model by looking through a parts place online, and I'd recommend Babbits because they have a more graphic index, or, by comparing wiring diagrams. They change cdi, and wiring plug shapes and colours from year to year and model to model.

#58.. Oh man that's a bummer.

I agree, try the original carb after you've given it a good clean. As Gw says, take out all the brass bits, blow gently through every drilling to work out where the drilling goes, then give it a good blast from the engine side of the drilling, against the usual air or fuel flow. You don't want to force any dirt stuck in a hole in any tighter. And clean the jets with a slither of some hard wood that you've whittled down to a fine three sided point. It needs to be three sided point so it scrapes slightly as you rotate it. And that emulsion tube Gw's mentioning, which is the long tube the slide needle drops into, it has very tiny holes up the side of it that need careful cleaning with a bit of wood, and the drilling that tube fits into needs careful cleaning too. It has to hold a certain quantity of fuel and if there is too much crud in the drilling it effects acceleration. The tiny holes in the emulsion tube are very tiny and hard to see if they are clean sometimes, but they are drilled on opposite sides of the tube so you can look right through from one side to the other. Those holes, well all the jets really, need to look like nice round holes. If they look a bit not quite round or a bit fuzzy, clean them some more with the wood.

Good one. Hope that is the cure.

Yeah, and you get to repair it with them... That's a good thing.

Check all the earths. Big and small earth wire at the battery, on the engine, and to the frame. If you mean the regulator isn't working, check it's earth too. It has an earth wire and it's probably meant to have a good earth where it mounts.

Haha.. I'm all for bribery.. Whatever works. Started my two on a PW 50 two-wheeler when they were 5 and 7. Dug them some mud holes and made some hill climbs, then a hill climb with a mud hole at the bottom.. haha.. Then bigger and bigger hill climbs. Ya gotta have fun !

Yeah. Never checked it out in the specs but it's possible the 230 was the sporty and the 250 perhaps a bit more utilitarian. They aren't the same as the first of the LT250 we got here either.

Haha.. Welcome along. That sounds like a fun bike for them.

If you get the engine number and it has some J4** or G4** number I can identify the bike(hopefully). I can possibly identify it off the vin too.

Good story Bro. Very amusing. Amazing it ran ! They do make a 230 and I think the service manual is in the manuals dept. If it's not there let me know and I'll upload it. They are very similar to 250 and they come in chain or shaft drive. Here's an extract from the manual telling where to find the frame and vin numbers.. output.pdf

Brick on the throttle ? Stick between seat and pedal ?