Mech

Low enough compression, or the ignition timing being far enough out can let them ignite the fuel without a sound or kick, and burn the plug almost dry, but not start. Try starting it and then pull the plug and check if it's wet, or perhaps, only wet on the metal part, or really completely dry..

I've got an Alterra 500\550\700 manual that has the 500 engine section and a 550\700 engine section separately, and most of the rest of it looks at a quick read mostly all the same for most of the rest of the stuff.. It may be better to use than the one you have. I'll post it up. Ooops, no I wont. The Alterra 500\550\700 one is already there. Try that one, it only does three models.

It looks like most of their manuals cover several engine sizes at a time. I know what you mean about the manuals not being very helpful laid out that way. It's always a good idea with any service manual to read right through it familiarising yourself with what's in there and what's covered in which section. If you do that and make yourself familiar with the manual, and perhaps make a few pencil notes of which pages are going to be the ones for your bike, it will no doubt get better the longer you use the manual. When I'm reading manuals for people in here I always have a pen and paper at my side noting things down. Like their bikes, the jap manuals are always excellent..

What model is it Alex ? Does it have a name ?

What do the bearings sound like, and is it smoking yet ?

And this is not even firing right ? No backfiring or anything.. Well a plug can fire just fine out of the engine, but then not fire once there is compression, so I'd try a second new plug. Sometimes, just very rarely, we get a dud plug, but also, if a plug gets stale fuel on it, it can get fouled in just a few cranks and near starts.

The Admin and Mod are both really helpful... And obliging..

Oh yeah, change the O ring.. That outer steel cover should come away with the uj yoke.

If you've done universal joints before, the following, from an earlier thread, might make sense. If you haven't done universals before I can describe the steps in more detail. "The universal is a bit of a bugger to do because you need to dismantle it in place, then put it together in place again as well.. unless you have a special dealer tool to undo the bolt to take the shaft away from the gearbox. The good news is that the universal joint is an excellent design and as far as universal joints go, it's almost foolproof. Most uj you need to be very careful as you put the cups into the yoke and onto the cross because it's really easy to dislodge a needle roller. On these crosses you can slip the cup into the yoke and onto the cross without having to press the cup far in, and then the other side cup goes in and onto the cross before it has a chance to drop a needle.. If you've done a car universal you will know the normal problem that requires you to press the cup a long way in till the cross is poking out the other side, then get the cup on the second side and press the whole lot back to the centre of the yoke. You don't have to do that with these ujs. The hardest part is getting the circlips on and off. The cups also seem to slip most of the way into the yoke too before you have to start tapping or using a g-clamp on it. They look daunting, but are a lot easier than it looks.. If you've done a uj before you should have no trouble.".

Yes you change the uj. I described the steps involved in #29. You need part 25 and the seal which is part 36 or 38. The seal can be bought aftermarket but I'd recommend the genuine part because it has a hard wearing lip to it. Same with the rear seal. When you put the yoke back onto the bike it's important to seal under the washer, and the nut, or it can leak oil.

It only works on older style systems as described in #8 Gw. And it can change the base timing at the same time as the advance, but how much it changes the base(or advance) varies depending on how high the trigger voltage the cdi needs, and how many windings there are on the trigger winding.

#27.. you could try increasing the air gap between the trigger coil and the flywheel.

To get the front driveshaft out of the engine/trans you have to dismantle the universal joint in place, which is quite a mongrel of a job, and then you undo a nut holding the yoke onto a shaft in the engine and pull the yoke off, then you change the seal with the special suzuki seal , refit the yoke, install a new U.J. in place, and it's all good again for years.

Ask the admin or mod about the video Chucksta. They're super helpful. People post big videos quite often I thought.. https://www.quadcrazy.com/profile/4-ajmboy/

The cdi will be fine. I doubt that the 3/4 and up problem is timing. I'd try lifting or lowering the slide needle.

Ha.. Ok. Well done. "Perseverance always wins, giving up never does.".

Racing engines don't idle, and they don't have centrifugal clutches,, The timing is set by the trigger coil, and they can't know what the timing is going to be until they know what engine it's going on. I'd keep away from idiots that make claims like that,,

No that won't give a good idle.

If you have a timing light check the timing. It could be too advanced or too retarded, but we might be able to get it right by swapping wires ..

The filter shouldn't suddenly start leaking real bad, but one of the oil hoses going to the cooler might be old and have cracked so it leaks.. They run right past there. I have had to fit a new case to one before because the bike had landed on a rock and put a hole in the crancase... despite the crash pan !

The O and G can go two ways onto the + and - ignitor pins, and the B/r and an earth could go onto the magneto pin in two different ways. It gives a total of four ways they could go. Then it may be that the ignitor pins are meant to be connected to the B/r and earth wire, and the O and G are meant to be on the two ignitor pins. Then there would be another four possible combinations of ways they could go. You need to try them in all eight combinations of ways...

Have you provided an extra earth when needed and tested the three wires(and an earth), in each of the four ways they can go onto the cdi ?

There's nothing under the engine that should leak. The oil filter and all the shaft seals and oil pipes are visible from above. The crash pan can sometimes hold a little oil if it got spilt onto it during an oil or filter change. A wash down might fix it..

Old style cdi used the rising trigger voltage to trigger the coil and that then automatically advanced the timing because the trigger voltage is higher at higher revs. The higher voltage meant that it got to the trigger point voltage sooner in the AC wave. Those type cdi could have their timing and advance moved by positioning the trigger coil closer to the magnets. Later designs use digital components to calculate the revs and advance the timing by a combination of digital and analogue means. These sorts take their initial timing from the point the rising voltage from the trigger stops rising and starts to go negative. Instead of triggering at a certain voltage on a rising wave like the earlier designs, they trigger as the voltage changes from positive to negative. That point never changes and the digital timing control allows a better advance curve. I'm pretty surer that Snicks bike, and the replacement cdi, will be the earlier design.

Are you sure it is a VIN number Snick ? It might only be a frame number.