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Mech

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Everything posted by Mech

  1. Is the air filter clean ? The end of the mixture adjusting screw may be damaged or wrong for the carb. The float level does have some effect on the idle mixture but the mixture screw should be able to overcome that effect. I'd check the mixture screw first. Most carbs these days it's pretty hard to muddle jets when you have them out. Jets do occasionally fall out though if people haven't tightened them enough. Before pulling the carb off I'd make sure the throttle butterfly was closed off almost completely by backing out the speed screw, then I'd try adjusting the mixture again. I'm sure you will have read my going on about how important it is to have the butterfly closed off when we adjust mixture. If you haven't, do a search.. I've written screeds about getting the mixture settings right in here. If the mixture really won't adjust properly after you've checked the tip of the mixture screw, and tried adjusting it with the butterfly closed way off, then I'd suggest pulling the carb off and checking the fuel and air jets are the right sizes and in the right places, I'd check the float level adjustment, and that the float needle was in fact cutting off the fuel by blowing into the fuel hose fitting while tilting the carb.
  2. Look at the steering linkages in manuals or online parts, for a slightly older model where the PS was an option, and see if they change the steering when they fit the PS. I'd suspect they just use the same leverage between the bars and the wheels for both PS and non-PS. Surely the steering in the non-PS models can't be so bad ?
  3. I meant, if the bike didn't have power steering(as a lot of them are), how heavy is the steering. Perhaps a faulty PS causes heavy steering.. hevvier than it would have if it didn't have the unit bolted on... Perhaps just biffing it is a viable option.. Might have to get a dealer to re-program it as a non-PS model so no trouble codes come up.
  4. The service manual may say whether the electronics have reverse or overload protection, or it may say to be careful not to reverse the battery because things will blow. The ECU and the PS and possibly the dash all need all of their power supplies, and all of their earths. The ECU has separate earths for different parts of it's workings, all the earths have to be earth. If those are all good then it should have recorded a trouble code if the CAN wires were broken. The CAN wires can be tested for continuity. Each unit on the CAN has a 60 ohm resistor(from memory) in it's communication lines. If you google CAN testing it will no doubt describe how to check those wires. If you take the PS off, is the steering heavy then ?
  5. be careful.. haha. I'd check everything till I was totally confident and could justify taking it out of the bike, then I'd dismantle it.. I wouldn't do it in place, because it's more likely something will get damaged, and because until I was certain it had to come out I'd be trying to fix whatever else is wrong. In this particular case, it's highly likely that the reversed battery has done the damage, and the damage won't be to the motor, it will be to the electronics.
  6. In the manual it said something about not putting gauges on the motor, I think because there were capacitors in there, which probably means there are other electronics in there, to forward and reverse it..
  7. Put a volt gauge on the battery and check it's charging, and regulating.
  8. The motor will only get power momentarily when needed, and only when told to by the ECU and/or PS sensors and computer. If there are any faults the PS shuts down.. I wouldn't be expecting power or any action out of the PS unit. If you find the two CAN wires on the PS unit you could unplug them and put an ohm gauge on them and you should get about 60 ohms.
  9. Yes the build up in the carb can effect their running. The drilling that the emulsion tube fits in, the emulsion tube being the long brass tube that holds the main jet and that the slide needle goes into, if that drilling gets crud in it, it effects acceleration and from about 1/4 to 7/8 throttle.
  10. Did you notice that they didn't have that diaphragm on the bottom of the bowl ? Would that make the difference between fitting and not fitting ? I'd suggest sending that carb that doesn't fit back, and cleaning the old carb. Unless the idle mixture screw is seized in, or there is huge amounts of play between the slide and body, then it will be the best option.. the aftermarket carbs hardly ever run right without some adjustments and work anyway.
  11. I think the power steering will be speed sensitive(the book will say), and that being the case it will be controlled by the ECU which has the speed sensor going to it. If there is a fault the PS system shuts down. If either CAN wire broke it would stop operation most likely, but should set a code saying the CAN was broken. You aren't getting codes.. So.. Check the ECU and the PS are getting 12v at all the places they should be. Study the wiring diagram carefully. See the dash has two power wires, one permanent and one switched. The ECU has several power wires, some permanent power and some switched, and it will have several earths as well I think. The PS unit has two power supplies. #31.. Might be a test port. It might have a can siganl.. Don't try to power it or earth it.
  12. The wiring diagram shows two plugs on the PS unit. One plug has two wires, one power and one earth. The other plug has three wires, one power and two CAN communication wires. The power wires should have 12v and good earth, the other power should be a switched 12v(tested against any earth),and the CAN wires will I think be about five volts. I think also the way to test the CAN wires will be to use an ohm meter between them and you should get about 60 Ohms.
  13. I'd check the voltage at the PS unit though, with the wire plugged in, and with the steering turned to hard lock, watching the voltage drop.. Just having enough power at the plug to run a multi-meter doesn't necessarily mean there is enough power there to run a motor. People get caught out by this all the time. You need to check for voltage to a unit, with a bit of a load on the circuit.
  14. The diagnosis does seem to be that the unit is crook. Given the circumstances it's possible/likely that it's blown a diode or some other electronic part that can be replaced. I'd take it apart and remove the electronic board/unit and see if I could repair it. If it's old fashioned electronics with the components soldered through a base board, it's likely to be repairable. If it's the new surface mounted components then I'd doubt you'll get anyone to fix it. If it's the old through board style electronics you'll probably see the blown component and someone will be able to find a substitute, hopeing that it's only the obviously blown things that are crook.
  15. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/atv/1991 There are four 1991 quadrunner's listed, and several models of carb. Some of the carbs are similar to that one you have except they don't have that enrichener valve that hangs off the bottom of the bowl. Check carefully though because there are several different jetted carbs, each for a different market, for different fuel, altitude, climate and possibly engine. It appears your carb isn't availiable, but, if you identify your model bike, then choose the correct carb in the listing and double click on the part number, it will take you to a page where, if you scroll down a bit, you will find a list of all the other models that carb fits. One of those other bikes may still have it's carb availiable, or you google search for the original part number for an after-market carb.
  16. There's a Hisun Forge 750 owners manual in the downloads section here, that will probably explain how to do it.
  17. Do a google search for "hisun 150cc 2006" and see if you can identify it, who sold them, and try to find an assembly manual.
  18. That says it's a 2006 model.
  19. Well it's made by Hisun, but Hisun don't market any models called Raptor, or of 150cc. I can't make out the stamped digit's shown in the photo, but that should confirm the year and might provide some other clues. If you can identify the bike from photos online then you may be able to get an owners manual, or assembly manual, which may have a wiring diagram. I doubt we will find a service manual that will talk us through the diagnosis process or tell us what readings we should get when testing with a gauge.. Try to identify the model and who sells them, then go looking for an assembly or owners manual..
  20. Test it from cold, see if it backfires cold.. Warm it up and while it's warming get a rag and jamb over the exhaust outlet so you will hear leaks up at the head. Check the choke operation, make sure it's going right off down at the carb, pull the plunger out by the cable and let it go making sure the plunger snaps back in against it's stop. Adjust the idle mixture in and out making sure it makes a difference both ways and finding the best spot, and do it at a low idle speed. Then check for backfires.
  21. No trouble. We all need a hand some times.
  22. I'd double check all the fuses had power and continuity too..
  23. I found the right manual at last. The later models don't have the diode in the fuse box. This should be your wiring diagram. There are three places the permanently live red wire from the battery goes to on the fuse box, one of which is the EPS fuse then to the EPS relays live terminal, and the other two go to main and memory fuses.. If the battery had been momentarily connected backwards, the EPS fuse and relay's live terminal should have been a dead end circuit with no current flow. The reverse battery shouldn't have hurt things in the EPS circuit as long as the key had been off. If everything else is still working then it would seem nothing else has been damaged either. I'd check those three wires going from the EPS to the diagnostic and the dash for continuity using the beeper on my gauge. output.pdf
  24. Neither the PS unit nor the control unit can log a code if the fuse or relay that supplies them with power is disconnected, or if the earth's disconnected, or if the units are unplugged. Shadowace had disconnected something earlier and got a code so it is working. Shadow, what does the writing say under those two fuses ? I can't quite make it out. And if you pull those fuses, does it disable whatever they are labeled as ?
  25. Is everything else on the bike still working ? Fan, lights , charging, gauge..
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