Mech

Ha.

More likely high voltage but that will test it for a crook regulator either way.. Or, a regulator with a bad wire or earth..

That's a good point about the two filters Kp.. That could make it run short of fuel. Then it would run at idle, and for a bit when you started riding, then it would slowly start to run bad.. might take a minute or more..

Oh wipe it off for me would ya mate.. Use the rag.

Babbits is the best place to look at parts pictures for general research.. I think.

Welcome along. This is a good site. They have manuals, the people are friendly and the admin and mods are helpful..

Yeah.. And ?

There is a seal on the decompressor lever that commonly leaks, and if the valve adjusters have been off they sometimes leak because they need a new O ring. Apart from that they should be oil tight from one head job to the next. Certainly nothing that drips anyway. Sometimes a head gasket lets a tiny amount of oil but it's generally only enough to collect dust. The decomp seal is the commonest and is an easy fix with minimum work. It can be done in place by just pulling the shaft out... after undoing one bolt.

They were still making them in 2005. That's the latest I know of or have manuals for. There heaps of small details changed every year. You can look in a service manual and it will explain everything about the base model for that range of years, and then at the back there will be supplements explaining what details are different for each subsequent or different year.

Turn the headlight on and see if it makes a difference..

Yup, right under the seat and just in front of the carby. Some have a canister in the vacuum line going to the fuel tap.. that's not a filter.

Oh yeah I see the glue now.. Ha bad eyes Gw..bad eyes. And don't you have enough to do already ? !! I better speak to your wife about this compulsion of your's.. I've seen it before and it doesn't end well.

ha..

King quads are without doubt the work horses of the quad world.. If other bikes are toyota corollas, they'd be the land cruiser.

Yeah that is good detailed stuff Gw. It's easy to forget how much we know and take for granted.. It's a shame there are so many youtubes out there that are full of bad advice.. haha.

When you say it doesn't want to pick up above 1/4 throttle, how bad is that ? Is is just a slight hesitancy, or a flat out refusal ? Also, check the choke plunger is going right back in.. And yeah, you really don't want to be taking the butterfly out. The screws are crimped and the shaft is soft and the threads will munt themselves as the screws come out if you aren't very careful, and if you do get them out, they are mongrels to get back in.

I've used it on big load bearing flanges on heavy machinery, and right down to the tiniest stuff.. never had a single problem of any sort. It's sensor safe, high temp, resists and seals anything, air pressure, oil, petrol.. I don't recommend it until you have tested it and know how little it will need, but because the small amount of excess inside the joins dissolves into the oil it can be used with caution on the likes of diesel and auto trans joins, it doesn't block sieves or seize the likes of oil pressure relief or injector nozzles..

Yes. The syringe is the best applier. It cost a bit more than other products but it is exceptionally economical in use because it takes so little and applies so cleanly and nicely. https://twlnz.co.nz/loctite-518-gasket-maker---medium-strength---25ml/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=51827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1qjBrMqbgAMVFq2WCh2Vugf1EAQYASABEgKpmfD_BwE You could throw every gasket but the head and cyl base gaskets out and use this on quad motors, big mo\tors with the gears and all, and it would do four overhauls easy.

The bigger air passages never block up, nothing that can't be blown out. I think you should un-tweak the float level first off. When you had the emulsion tube out did you clear the tiny holes in the side of it ? If that emulsion tube had a short discharge tube above it that works with the needle to calibrate the flow of fuel and air, are you sure it's still there and the right way up ? Are you certain the needle is still at the correct clip setting? Are you sure the needle is held in the slide and not able to go up and down ? I have heard of problems where someone put an O ring in somewhere on or near that emulsion tube and had similar problems, though I'm unaware of any O rings in there, unless it's to seal the main jet. The passage that emulsion tube is in is designed to hold a measured amount of fuel and if it's full of crud sufficient to change how much it holds it can give a flat spot as you accelerate, but it's fairly minimum. I'd check the slide is moving freely, and that it's air passages are all clear, and that the carb bowl breathers are correct and claer, and that the airbox and cleaner are all in good order and original. I'm quite sure than any further cosmetic cleaning with chemicals is not going to cure the problem.

yeah right.. Switch looks the same.. But the power and kill might be one sliding contact that does both.. or it might be two separate sliding contacts.. And that's the way to go with wiring diagrams.. Print them out and use felt pens to colour the wires.. It saves a hell of a lot of finger tracing and doub

Ah...

Unless you have some especially specific conditions you ride in, I'd always recommend sticking with what they designed the bike for, and the tyres/rims they designed for the bike. If you only rode in deep mud ever, then yeah stick big tractor treads on, but then it will handle like sh** on hard surfaces and at speed. If you only ride on soft sand, then use nice round cross section tyres with lots of small bumps, or what they call a paddle. If you are always in rocky conditions then it depends how fast you want to go, and how likely the tyres are to get damaged. Snow and ice I know nothing about.. Happily. I don't like cold.

Savage is normally onto it but I don't think the start circuit is any problem.. He might elaborate though. I'd unplug the main switch and use the buzzer on the gauge to check that it all switches as it should.. I'm suspecting there's some wear stopping the sliding contacts moving as far as they should, and possibly only not as far as they should in one direction, or dirty contacts on the kill part of it..The sliding bit might be contacting the power ok but not a dirty kill contact, or there might be two sliding contacts and one is dirty of loosing travel.. You'll have to try and figure it with the gauge, unless it comes apart in which case rip into it.

And, if in that picture of the gauge, those are the big starter terminals you are reading over, then that's what we would expect you to get. That would be reading from a live battery lead, to the starter, and the starter as far as that gauge is concerned is a short to earth because the starter draws so much current. Savage was I think saying to test the two small solenoid wires. Is the starter working ? You hadn't mentioned a no start.. or did I miss it. Oh... mybad.. I see you did say the starter is working later on there..

So you are still having the problem it won't turn off right ? And it has a problem with the idling.. right ? And is there a problem starting too ? All of that could be caused by the key switch. That diagram I posted showing the switch for the 160, that's just showing what gets contacted where. It doesn't absolutely mean that there are two sliding contacts for the ignition and kill. It can be that there's one contact and it slides along from shorting the ignition to earth, then onto a live contact and then onto the acc feed contact. If it has lost motion in there it can be not always contacting the acc contact, or going far enough to contact the earth or kill.. I've seen it before with ignition switches. And kill switches. All the electrical problems can be the switch, and it might cause the erratic idle and then dying as well. The idleing things though might be bad mixture, either by adjustment of air leaks blocked jets etc, or wear on the butterfly shaft if it has one, or play in the slide.