Gwbarm

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Thats great, sometimes it just a matter of jumping in there and doing it, sometimes i plan on doing the job longer than it actually takes me to do it, I try to figure every aspect of what might go wrong, because usually if it can go wrong it will. Glad yours went smoothly.

The wiring harness you bought, did it say it was for a Big Bear or a Warrior, and what years are we talking about.

According to the specs, the CDI is only for the Warrior or the Kodiak. Since the Kodiak came only in a 400, the 350 engine must be from a Warrior or a Big Bear. If its chain drive that would be the Warrior engine.

Sorry! I must have missed that, you might be right on track. I got confused i thought you were working on replacing the wiring harness on a Big Bear, iv been noticing that happening more often as i get older.

You will get it , life does take priority, I know very well.

Interesting, it sounds like the wiring harness was not for a Big Bear, i think they were all shaft drive, or i havent seen one that wasnt.

This video may help you identify some of your wires. Not exactly what you are doing but may help.

Im trying to keep up so i will just start at the beginning. You bought a wiring harness but its not the right one, then you bought a CDI , im assuming it plugs into the wiring harness you bought, but is it the right CDI for that harness. Its hard to get a CDI for a harness when you are not sure which harness you have. You seem to have it wired up is anything working. Im still studying the wiring, i wasnt sure what your question was.

All Big Bears were manual , and all Kodiaks were automatics, they were so close to the same, if you wanted a manual shift you got a big bear and if you wanted an Automatic you got a Kodiak, and the Big Bears were 4 wheel drive all the time, i think they changed that on some of the later models, the Kodiaks could go to two wheel drive, or 4 wheel drive.

I used that all balls kit also , it is a very nice kit and worked well.

Yes Mech thats the way i figured out if i was looking at the correct diagram , i would compare it to my bike to make sure wire colors were the same, although they were pretty much the same with all the 400 series of that year, and check to make sure all the componets were there in the diagram and on my bike. I still wasnt exactly sure but they did seem to match up. Just noticing there is no FWN for the 2000 model listed what year is yours. I do remember the YFM400 were the same numbers for the Kodiak and Big Bear and the other letters after specified what model.

I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug. Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs.

I found no sticker on mine to tell me which one i had ,so i did one of the internet vin# searches and it came back same as yours, YFM400F or YFM400FH Buckmaster, so i figured since mine wasnt camalflaged in color it was the YFM400F. I have just been playing like that was it, still not positively sure.

That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.

Never heard that but maybe AGM reacts differently to being maintained daily. I know they dont like to be charged with high amperage or quickly.

I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole, then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.

Welcome!

I have been looking at different options, right now the honda pilot is at the top of my list although its border line as being too large for what we need, i never really cared for the looks of the pilot until the 23 model now it looks nice, the V6 runs great but not as smooth as i expected. The outback is a great little car i see why it is loved by so many, quality interior although not as good as the honda, and to get that quality you have to go up to top trim levels which makes the price close to the pilot, a little small for me, great all wheel drive, dont care for the CVT transmision, but the engine is great, that boxer engine is probably the smoothest running engine on the market, not the turbo it has a roughness to it on acceleration, and the natural asperated is a little weak, but so smooth. So too small too large So i looked at the highlander turbo 4 option only . The next option was the grand highlander but i liked the honda better. Maybe being picky but when you spend this much on a car i like doing my homework.

👍 I use maintenance chargers 2 amp for my smaller batterys in motorcycles and ATV, i also use them on my cars for the ones i dont use that often, but if you are charging a dead car battery i use a 6 amp, dont really like to chaarg with anything stronger than that its not good for the battery. If you are really in a hurry with a car battery i crank it with a jumper pack and let it run for a while and charge with the cars alternator.

I remember the scout very rare to see one now, see the old 60s broncos occasionally but havent seen a scout in years.

Thought that might be it, they do have a tendacy to bind if the case is not perfectly straight when going back on.

It did come from the factory with the AMC 304 V8 i am the second owner and i have had it since the 80s. Great engine but not needed in a Jeep with a 3 speed. Works perfectly for what i use it for, when im going through the woods i put it in 4 wheel drive low in 3 rd gear and never have to shift and just ease through the woods. I had a 57 CJ5 with the 4 cylinder 3 speed when i was in High School never had more fun with any other vehicle i have ever owned, they really made them for work in those days, plenty of power with the 4 wheel drive and low gear and the Willys 4 cylinder. Dont do a whole lot of hunting anymore, but i do love going to the woods and exploring.

I love those old army jeeps, that little 4 cylinder was like the little engine that could, so simple and so easy to fix, and smoothe running, mine is from the 70s with an AMC V-8 the most overpowered vehicle i have ever owned but a smooth running engine no accessories or pollution stuff.

When i said gears i meant geared automatic transmissions not CVT, she says she can drive a standard but i have never seen her do it, its all she can do to keep her hair and makeup fixed and steer at the same time without having to clutch and shift gears. I do love a standard transmission, i have an old Jeep CJ5 with a standard 3 speed, so much more fun to drive, but you are not going to go very fast on the highway and its about like riding a buffalo.