Gwbarm

Interesting, I was just looking up the resistance specs when I saw your post, those were my thoughts exactly.

I got my eBay purchased engine side cover today, it was not bad at all, actually very impressed, I have gotten some junky parts off eBay before for a steep price. I still wanted to clean it up a bit, so maybe the new mud I go through won't stick to it so bad. Didn't want to get too crazy with it , but looks better. Cleaner works better, right! As I was inspecting everything I noticed that the stators were different. So I was trying to decide which was the aftermarket or maybe they are both aftermarket. Nothing screams aftermarket more than green, so I determined my original side case had an aftermarket stator, that's OK it actually works. So now I have a delimma do I go back on with the aftermarket that I know works, or take a chance that the OEM one will work, The new one kind of had a number on it. The original that came out of it had no markings at all, and had thinner wire.

Yes it’s just above the oil fill plug

Thanks Mech, I see now the adjuster is under the cover, so drain oil so you don't get it all over the ground.

I would turn it counterclockwise to get it back to where you started, just keep turning it counterclockwise until you feel resistance and then turn it clockwise 1/8 of a turn. You do not have to drain the oil to adjust the clutch.

Sometimes neutral is hard to find sometimes you have to rock back and forth to find neutral, but im sure you know that , so something must be different, I would try adjusting the clutch again.. Turn to the left until you feel resistance, then turn to the right 1/8 of a turn and lock it down. I would also change the oil to get some clean lubrication in there.

This is one bad review that I have found: Updated Jun 6, 2023 Verified They sent me a defective top end… They sent me a defective top end rebuild kit for my rhino and waited over 3 days to decide whether or not they want to replace it even though it arrived defective. I asked several times for a return slip so I could get it replaced and they failed to provide one. I ended up eating the return fee just to get my money back. I will never buy another product from their company directly and I have let my friends know about my experience so they don't either. Date of experience: May 10, 2023 All the other reviews were 5 star, Just a comment here if I was ordering one I would go through Amazon because if you get no response from the seller , Amazon will take care of it and very effectively, they have done it for me several times, you just have to make an effort to contact the seller first.

Was looking for some Eiger parts on Amazon and one of the Niche rebuild kits came up, cylinder, piston, rings ,gaskets, wristpin, clips, spark plug, all for 88.00. Thats crazy! I would try it for that price, all you can loose is a little labor, certainly not much money involved.

Iv been getting my petcocks from amazon so far no problems, no leaks and works as they should.

I don't think the clutch plated would be rattling the springs keep that from happening, the centrifugal clutch maybe but I doubt it.

The oil filters are under the clutch cover there a 2 a screen that slides out and a paper element filter around the crank.

I couldn't make out the noise either I thought I heard it once but it sounded pretty normal, but a lot of exhaust noise. I didn't really hear any tapping noise. I would change the oil if it hasn't been changed in awhile and take a look , see if it quiets down, it probably lost its viscosity.

Last I checked and its been a few years it was 100.00 a hole.

Interesting, I would go with that kit.

Good luck! Let us know how it works out.

I just ordered a Niche flywheel for my Suzuki Eiger project, ill see how it works out, interesting they only manufacture about 3 flywheels and mine was one of them, but that flywheel fits a multitude of bikes. I was looking at one on Ebay said it had a 6 yr warranty but wouldn't tell me the manufacturer only that its made in China, im sure that would be fun trying to cash in on that warranty, in other words I don't believe it, OEM doesnt even give that kind of warranty.

Thats OK! It will work fine just check that the bearing is in good shape while apart, for a 90s bike might want to replace that also.

Sore neck from bending down trying to turn your head a certain way to see what's going on with the nut, been there done that.

The weep hole is for water to come out when the pump is failing, if you have oil coming out of that hole I would just replace the water pump, but that's just me , I don't mess around with water leaks or battery problems I just replace the affected parts before they put me down.

I would check the continuity of the wires from the accessory plug to the fuse to start , make sure you have 12v at the fuse and leaving the fuse to the accessory plug. Try a different fuse, sometimes they appear good but are not.

All great ideas, im pulling for you, good luck!

After reading the specs from NRAs manual, I thought it was going to be closely wired to the 400 because the specs were about the same, but the CDI is definitely different.

I was kind of afraid you might not be able to get a screwdriver back in there, that's why I suggested the pry bar or tire tool they have like a 30 degree angle on their tip I thought that might, and I stress might get in there, and even if you have to heat it and bend it to an 75 or 90 degree you might be able to get it in there. I still rooting for you not splitting the case, when you get the nut off, you can get in there with a dremmell tool with a small flat diamond wheel, it has to be the wheel so you can come into the recessed area straight, so you can't do it with a diamond bit. Then you can get into the damaged threads and straighten them out , hopefully. You do have to have a steady hand and good eyes to do this, although I have done it many times, and I have neither. A lot of people use thread files and that might work good, I have not had much luck with them but it might be because I always buy cheap ones.

You might want to take a look anyway, poor photos,

I did find another repair manual but it wasn't for the 350UB, and looking at the wiring diagram the plugs were not the same as your. 99 must be a strange one, maybe an odd year before the 400. I did find an owners manual for the UB I think it was maybe UBW looked through it and no wiring diagram. May just have to old school this one, check all your coil resistances to make sure they are in spec, check that you have continuity on all your wire, make sure you have 12 volts to CDI and good ground at CDI, check to make sure all the stator coils for ignition are putting out voltage. Check start stop and key switch for correct operation. Make sure you have 12 v and continuity to ignition coil. I know all this has been talked about already I was just going through my check list when I don't have spark. Im sure you have already checked most of these things. So when all of these things are in spec, then it's time to replace the CDI, but before I did that I would pull the side cover and make sure pulser coil is in the right position and not loose, with no problems there no trash or metal flakes obstructing it, that's a test you can only run with your eyes.