Gwbarm

I think I would take the switch apart and clean with contact cleaner, and check wires for good connections ,also check for continuity between the wire in the switch and connector.

From the manual posted it said the bleed screw was at the top of the cylinder head.

I was looking around on Craigs List and this came up: When it comes to Craigs List if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, most of the others I have seen in my area for sale have been 2500 +.

Looks like JB weld on the body just to the left of that CVK

It came right out this morning, that Air Hammer is a great tool for getting out stubborn screws and bolts, and fitted with the Eastwood attachment it works well , the handle makes it nice, you can put some real torque on it with that.

Foe OEM parts I use mainly motorsport.com or RockymountainMCATV.com they sell Aftermarket parts also fairly reasonable. I also use Amazon for aftermarket and Ebay for used OEM if unavailable. Things can be kind of iffy on Ebay you have to look closely if you are buying used for damage or not right fitment, plus you have to look for a good price, some sellers sell them high. Plus some of the OEM parts are so outrageously priced you have to go used. There are many online suppliers and I only use these because they have good customer service, and very helpful people.

I decided to take a closer look at my eBay winnings Kie Hin carb.. Took the bowl off and up on first glance it was pretty clean, no white powder. Jets looked clean needle looked new. Diaphragm was in good shape, and then I spotted it. Someone probably dropped it while cleaning it, did a descent job repairing it so it may be OK, but I don't like it. The jets all had the right numbers on them for that year Eiger, just wish I had some way to measure them, I will compare them with the ones in the kit. This is kind of sad and annoying I actually had to take a photo of the jet and zoom it up to be able to read the numbers. Age is not kind to your eyes. So I got bored with that and decided to take the seal holder off the case and prepare for the new seals, I always use an air hammer to get those bolts out I know they are in there tight, and corroded but this one wasn't having it, the ones from the old case came out OK but thats not doing me any good. Ill let them soak in PB Blaster overnight and try again tomorrow. I know I post a lot of useless pictures and information for most of you, but I do it to help other people that might be working on similar projects, and having similar problems

Not sure! Im not that familiar with these older Polaris engines, but check around where the hose and water pump connect and follow the cooling chamber, I know you can't really know exactly , but somewhere in the vicinity of how you think the cooling chamber might run and see if you see one. I will also see if I can find a manual and take a look also.

Good job getting the seals in with no problem! It sounds like you may have an air pocket inside the cooling chamber in your engine, there should be a rogue screw that looks like it does nothing on the engine, screw it out until coolant starts coming out and close it back, then you have bleed all the air in the system out. It's also possible you could have air in the radiator also, it will eventually work itself out run it a little with the cap off, and sure its possible the thermostat stuck from getting dry after being in coolant so many years.

Got my new flywheel in today installed one way bearing and got it installed, sure is nice and shiny. Everything is ready to go back together, just waiting on oil seals.

Glad to hear that I will try it, I have used many and have not been impressed with any of them, so I just take my time and use them dry. The last one I used was Indian head gasket shellac, what a gooy mess that was.

Glad to hear you got your spark back, the same thing happened to me with the Gasket on my Bear. That lower area has to be extremely clean, I went over it with a Razor steel wool and polished it with 600 grit sandpaper and wiped down with brake clean to make sure no contaminants were left behind, to get mine clean, and put on an OEM gasket instead of the aftermarket one I had on there. The OEM one was not that much more and I didn't have anymore leaks.

Oh! I just revisited your photos. I think you are talking about the foot shifter came loose. There is a bolt that holds it on the shaft it might have come out you can check that, I couldn't see if it was there in the photo.

Thats interesting, never heard of that before, no buzzer or warning just won't run right.

Thats great that you got the nut off. You should be able to find a die that will work to cleanup the threads, but if not that bad you may not need to. I have had to do that on cranks before, I just measured the shaft as close as I could I and ordered a die for that mm wasn't sure if it was going to work , but it did. I didn't have a choice because the nut wouldn't even start on the shaft. In your situation I would start the nut on with plenty of oil screw it on if it starts to tighten up from bad threads back off and go a little bit at a time forward and back with a hand ratchet until it goes on smoothly , then take a look at the nut and shaft threads to see if it worked.

If you have tried tightening it with the clutch adjustment and nothing happened, maybe something has come loose on the clutch itself. You will have to take the clutch side cover off to check that out, but before you do that , try adjusting it again. I have not worked on many Toa but most clutch adjustments work loosening the lock nut, turn to left until you feel resistance and turn to the right 1/8 of a turn. When you did this did you feel resistance also when its running do you hear any noise coming from the clutch cover. Is it stuck in gear or just won't change, there is also a gearshift linkage adjustment that can get loose you might check that before pulling the side cover.

That sounds like a great program 👍 Polaris.

After closer inspection I was right the new case had the original OEM stator and pickup coil. VS the aftermarket ,no markings at all on pickup coil or stator and very sloppy wire connections. I checked the resistance ratings on the pickup coil on both units. The OEM one was 200 OHMs The aftermarket one was 22OHMs The power source coil resistance was 0 on both units.

There is a seller on Ebay, Niche-Cycle, they sell new Mikuni Carbs, they seem to be a Mikuni dealer, you might check and see if he has one to fit.

Rocky Mountain ATV has all the parts needed to repair your carb, but does not sell the complete carb as a unit. Probably because they didn't sell very many of them at 458.00. What seems to be the problem with your carb, I usually rebuild an OEM carb. Just looking on Amazon they sell a kit ,and have many aftermarket carb that fit your machine.

Ok ok! I have plenty of wide tie down that will work good for that. Thanks! Thanks for clarifying strap wrench.

Most of the manuals I saw were newer also, haven't really found one for the 87. Its got to either be in the switch or wires , start tracing wires take the switch apart and make sure they are not corroded or loose.

Letting off at higher speeds does sound like valve guide seals, maybe a combination, but you can check it out when you have it down again.

Not familiar with webbing, what is that.

Thank for the information on the rattle gun, I generally have only used them on large bolts like flywheel and clutch, because I don't take the time to find something to hold it while im loosening the bolt. I will be more cautious on using them. I thought about using a strap wrench around the flywheel but didn't know if I would be able to hold it to go to 100 ft ads . The belt is a better idea if I can attach it to something rigid and them push down on the belt while im tightening it. I might be able to come in at an angle with a big crescent wrench and hold it that way , I haven't tried that yet.