Gwbarm

Electronic breakdowns always concern me the worse, they work or don't work, and you never know when the latter will happen. Not like the old days remove 2 screws file points and get yourself home.

I always attach to the bike before I bench bleed its like having a 3 rd hand.

I recently acquired this Suzuki Eiger got it running , first priority. Next, there are no brakes front or rear. Master cylinder for front, little Phillips/JIS not sure which, are stripped out so bad, any advice on getting these out, Ive ran into this before and my methods don't work very well. The back brake cables are adjusted very, very, loosely, or I should say not adjusted at all, and im assuming its because rear brakes were sticking. I haven't taken anything apart yet but I can see remnants of silicone sticking out so it has been apart before, probably not sealed back correctly .

Cheap paper filters do not hold up well with fuel pump engines, but if you have cleaned the carb with the same issues that's beside the point. Not real familiar with your carb but there sometimes are hidden jets and dirty emulsion tubes, if they are removable, I have cleaned carbs and cleaned before and never any change until I removed the tube sometimes they won't come out so you have to try and make sure the cleaner gets down in there or use something like berry man in your ultrasonic cleaner. I don't like to do that because it makes the metal darker but for last resort it does work.

Try Rocky Mountain or Motosport they sell OEM parts.

Tie rods do take a beating and get worn, sometimes they can be adjusted back to specs, but sometimes they need to be replaced.

After reading more Suzukis don't come with Mikunis they come with Kei-Hin don't know much about that carburetor.

That great, you figured it out, sometimes little things that that are hard to find.

When I use non ethanol gas a jelly type residue and rust accumulates in float bowl.

Nice looking little Quad I would mix 2 stroke oil at 40 to 1 and maybe clean the plug, they are bad to get oil fowled.

Thanks appreciate the response haven't used Rotella but have heard good thing about it.

I just put one on a Suzuki that I just bought, made by Labworks only one with 5 stars, after I bought it I looked closer and it only had 1 rating so 1 guy really liked it. I was initially going to rebuild my mikuni but when I got it off I didn't have a mikuni it had no name on it so I assume its aftermarket. The good thing about the Labworks is it came with new choke valve, which I needed, mine was stripped out not even attached to old carb, and all hoses, just put on and good to go. At first it wouldn't start then I figured out I had petcock issues put it on prime and runs fine. Haven't got it to idle correctly yet and can't find a mixture adjustment screw. May have to adjust throttle cable a bit. But is is running now, what a powerful beast.

Just went to get gas, premium non ethanol is not available at the station that has it, I haven't bought any non ethanol since the gas increase, even though its gone back down ethanol fuel is 3.09 gallon here and non ethanol is 4.09 gallon.

I also use non-ethanol fuel but not the premium just regular, no reason other than the book recommended 87 octane. I don't use fuel stabilizers, never thought they helped that much. The only additive iv ever used is Berryman Chemtool it works great for keeping carbs clean.

That sounds like your clutch is not engaging or transmission issues.

Just a poll to see what brand and type of oil others are using in their ATVs

Good choice just ride it, keep some extra plugs and wrench in your tool box so you don't get stranded and get some RPMs up and see if it starts cutting out, best way to diagnose is ride, of course if it starts making loud clanking noises stop.

Mysterious that it only happened after you used the trickle charger, I might check the fuses sometimes they get corroded and loose.

Nothing like feeling the wind in your face and the rumble under your seat.

Not really that familiar with the 96, is it foot shift or hand shift, semi auto or auto. If its auto I would check the shift cable if it is semi- auto I would check to make sure the cir clip is still in place on the shift shaft. Those are the easy things to try first.

If they turn a little i wouldn't think the transmission is locked, may the output bearings are a little corroded and stiff, brakes could also be corroded causing it hard to turn but not completely seized.

Synthetic oills burn differently from mineral oils, might explain no smoke. I run mineral oils in all my ATVs and motorcycles that are air cooled. I do run synthetics in all my automobiles .

Recommended oil for Kodiak 400 Yamalube 10W40 or equivalent with API SJ rating.

Actually you have to have title and bill of sale to register it in my area . But registration is not required, it makes no sense, I recently found out that the bill of sale to use for ATV is personal property bill of sale of sale not motor vehicle bill of sale ,no where to put vin # or anything identifying the ATV. I just wanted to get a title in my name probably don't even need it at all.

Thanks I appreciate the response, I've been looking for a new wiring harness the one I got with the bike is so chopped up, I may just rewire it myself, I've been trying to figure out how to power it up from the battery to see if it runs might have bad cdi or other problems .