Gwbarm

I would think the light would only turn on when its hot, when it heats up to a certain point you get a clear path from the sensor for 12 volt to go to the light bulb to tell you its running hot.

Was the hesitation the reason you had the carb rebuilt, and still there after the rebuild, if so, could be clutch related.

I like the hand shifter idea, but how does it attach, the foot shifter is still there.

You can heat the sensor with a heat gun and see if the fan and light come on, to do this remove the sensor, there are ohm ratings that you can check with a meter, your manual should tell you the correct specs.

Good you got it up and driving, keeping my fingers crossed its going to come around, Mech gave you a very good detailed description of what to do, dont have anything to add to that. Good luck!

That a good thing, rebuilding the Big Bear with your son, memories he will take with him the rest of his life, i had daughters and my youngest was like my shadow, whatever i was working on she was right there with me, and now grown she reminds me of things we did that i had no idea she would remember or even think about again.

Yeah! Somethings not right i just downloaded the carb breakdown it sshows seat O ring and needle, my big bear had a little wire that went around the float tang, it doesnt show that on yours, cant really see anything , unless the o ring got out of position when installing it. but you said when you push down hard it stops ,so thats not it, i would take it back out and make sure there is not a burr or anything on the seat causing this.

if you hold down on float and blow does air still esscape

Sounds like the float needle is sticking you can polish up where the sides of the seat with fine sand paper 800 grit rolled up in a tube or use a tip in you drill with polishing compound

Yes aftermarket carbs are reasonable, i have used them with not much luck, they do run and fairly well but seem to run lean and cant adjust it out, the 3 bikies i am working on all had aftermarket carbs, i have been working on trying to get OEM replacements because i was not happy with the performance. OEM carbs are very expensive,i have been looking for used ones in good shape and rebuilding them, the cheapest and easiest way for you to get it up and running would be to get an aftermarket, read the reveues , some are better than others. Get it up and running make sure everything else is working good without spending a lot of money, it may work fine, and if it doesent you can always replace it later. Just my opinion. I have one on my Eiger its cold natured but once warm it does OK, but until then a lot of stumbling and jerking you have to ease into the throttle.

I have seen them internally short and start spinning backward, but it may be as dave said brush problem.

You might want to look it up for your correct model # not sure if the the diagram i posted was for yours but it was for a 95

You are right i didnt notice the pin, they must have changed the handle at some point. or is that little round spot on the lever in the photo you posted where it broke off.

Motosport .com and it was one of the models toward the bottom of the list but it was from 95 wasnt sure of the model number.

Im thinking maybe the correct bolt fell out and was replaced, but the finish looks the same, number 14 may be what you are missing Sorry Mech, your post snuck in while i was doing mine, this is from a 95 not sure if its King quad didnt know the model #, and thats the way they were designated.

It should lock into something under the rubber cover when you pull the brake lever slide the lever to the right looking at the last photo i cant really see if aanything is missing under there but it should lock in and hold the brake lever in the pulled position

I know I’m going to have to cut it out to get to the footbrake .

Still working on the Eiger, got the seat all finished got some T50 6mm stainless steel staples they went in better but occasionally i would get a misfire, but kept going, finally figured it out, i had 2 staplers one used T50 and the other used 112, guess which stapler i grabbed, the wrong one. I have been driving it around doing very well with the shifting and rolling, very impressed with how the engine runs, very large and powerful, certainly more than i need. Found the plastic covers i ordered a year ago, that took a minute or two, and found a problem, the left side fit like a glove, the right side didnt fit at all. I got to looking closer and found that they sent the wrong footpeg cover for that side. I ordered them a year ago when i first got it. No problem, they will take it back its never been used. Went to order the correct one, and the foot peg cover has been discontinued by the manufacturer. Luckily they sent the wrong side cover that matches, the wrong footpeg cover, not sure its their fault sometimes getting the right part is tricky, they are always superseded by yada, yada, yada part #. Thought that would work until i put it on. Looks good right, the only problem is the foot peg is different on the automatic model so it didnt fit it right. Also the brake petal is now missing, it must be on the other side on the automatic model. Thats OK brakes are just a luxuary anyway, afterthought, i can use the rear handbrake. Still looking for the correct part, i can still get the correct side cover. Piddly stuff, but when i do something i try to do it right. It may only look good for 5 minutes but it will look good when i finish.

Yeah, thats what ethanol fuel does to a carb after sitting, never seen non ethanol fuel do that to a carb, it is just usually tarry and junky, is that an OEM carb or an aftermarket, if its aftermarket i wouldnt even mess with it , try to find a used OEM to rebuild to specs. If it is OEM is should clean up OK with some patience, depending how bad the pitting is. Just get a good quality kit or replacement OEM jets and Needle.

A normal torque for those is about 30 ft#, may be different on yours not sure what you are working on.

Most that i have worked on has a lever on the hand brake like you said and a slit in the lever and a pin you pull the hand brake and engage the lever into the pin and that keeps the lever in the pulled position.

That would definately be a good thing to try. Before i pulled the engine and split the case i would pull the belt cover and the primary clutch housing off, it is a centrifical clutch but it works differently from the foot shift model. Those covers are not so much weather tight as they would have you believe, if it has ever been sunk you will probably have dirt and sand and junk causing the centrifical clutch not to work, but if its been not abused too bad it should be alright. Just take a look in there and see if everything is working correctly maybe clean up the balls that move into place as it spins, that needs doing anyway, and watch everything as it runs. May not help with the shifting but wouldnt and would be a good first step.

Good you found that, not the first place i would have looked.

I would avoid splitting the case at this point, i think that is a last resort, its kind of hard to diagnose with the gears out of the case, we first have to decide what its not doing and why, you say you have the cover off and the gears are all rotating like they should, when you move the shift lever do they move to a different position or stay the same. I would also take a look at the belt drive to make sure that is all working as it should. I havent yet looked at a repair manual but i will take a look and see what i can come up with. They are nice quads ,definately worth fixing.

This is from a 2015 Polaris Ace manual