Gwbarm

They dont all have O rings mine just had the plastic piece and spring, nothing but the spring holding the plastic piece and needle in place, and they are a little wobbly the main jet and plastic guide holds the needle in place.

I thought about that also but my reverse light comes right on , no issues with that, as soon as i put in in reverse its on. My neutral light is hit and miss the last time i used it wouldnt come on at all, which has happened before, but i may go out tomorrow and it will come on, hadnt quite figured this one out yet.

Patience is the key here, because those carb screws are tiny , get a center punch, i have one that pops when you push down on it to make the indentation to get it in the center of the broken screw, if its not in the center it will wander off and get into the threads, drill with the smallest drill bit you have, you will probably have to go a little larger with the hole later, but its best to start with a small hole, did i mention make sure its in the center of the broken screw. I dont particularly like ease outs but sometimes its the only way if its broken off flush. Soak the broken screw good with penetrating oil and since its in a carb i would also soak with carb cleaner it cleans out any varnish residue from the gas better. We want to try to get it out without damaging the threads but that does not always happen, if you get into the threads, dont panic there may be enough left to get the screw to hold , and if not you can tap for a size larger thread. I am working trrying to get one out of a throttle plate that the head stripped, it is being difficult, so i am taking my own advise and being patient, but it is so small, and they put them in with locktight and the screws are so soft , so i know what you are going through.

No bushings im just going to lube it up good and put it back together.

Not sure shaft or bushings are not shown as replaceable parts.

I pulled the carb back off today, took the throttle plate spring and rubber sealing washer off again, took the one screw out, the one i could get out, started working on the bolt that was stripped. Sprayed lots of Pb blaster in there to try and loosen it up. As i was working on getting the bad screw out, i noticed that it was working correctly, no sticking or binding, turning it by hand. Hooked the spring and plate back up and binding again. So my conclusion is the shaft bushing is bad ,spring is pulling it to one side causing the plate to get mis aligned. Still havent got the screw out i have tried a lot of different things, i think i will try cutting a slot in it but may be difficult it flush with the plate.

That was my thought also, but couldn’t get it out may have to drill the screw out not a whole lot to work with there.

Took the carburetor back off cleaned the venturi and throttle plate good with carb cleaner. Still sticking a little, felt like it was sticking on the back side of the plate. Took the cable hookup off the carb so i could get to the shaft and lube it good, still sticking a bit. Replaced the return spring still sticking, a tiny bit wont go back completely when only opening 1/4 throttle, but if you go full throttle an let it go it goes back completely to position. So i tried taking the throttle plate out too try to clean and adjust better, although adjustment looks good, one screw came out good wit JIS screwdriver the other had been stripped already with regular phillips so i couldnt get it out. So im assuming the previous owner has the same issue. I decided to try it for a while and see if it gets better.

Might be an unplugged vacuum tube at carb that went to original petcock

Check to see if you are getting 12 volts leaving the switch going to the light when in neutral.

Yeah! They are cheap and come with new shoes, i think the last ones i bought, which was a 2 pack to sevice both sides, ended up being about 28.00 and included pads. Dont know how they will hold up, we will see.

Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.

Welcome! Enjoy the site. Lot of good information floating around with good people that are always willing to help and share knowledge.

It does still sound like a carb problem. The mixture screw is under a plug at the bottom front of the carb, sometimes trash will make its way in there and you have to take the plug out to remove the mixture screw to clean it. Also the emulsion tube could be dirty its under the main jet, kind of have to push on it to get it out. You might have already done that, just a thought.

Yeah i have one that quit working also, as long as i have had it it would take a while for the neutral light to come on, like about 5 seconds after i got it in neutral my light would come on. Now its not coming on at all, i was going to just replace the switch but its under the engine cover. So i decided to try and clean all the wires going down to it first, and check the bulb for corrosion in the socket. Still havent got around to doing that , but i think thats what causes a lot of the neutral light problems.

Great, glad you got it fixed, new calipers do wonders for these old machines.

When the price is too good to pass up, i always expect the worst. If i go to the trouble of hooking up my trailer, finding where the location is, generally out in middle of nowhere, drive until you think you are good and lost then turn left and you are there. If i go to this trouble its following me home. I do this because i already know what im going after from communication with the seller. It has to be something i like or want or i wouldnt bother. The price we agreed on is what i will pay when i get there, a lot of people will play the seller, get there and try to jew them down, i dont do that, even though its standard practice, of course i wont even go look at one if the seller doesnt even bother to wash the mud off before listing it, because good photos are woth 1000 words. Generally when they are really cheap there are major problems, but not always, one day it just wouldnt crank so they pushed it in the barn and forgot about it. Those are the ones i like to find.

I have the idle adjuster adjusted all the way out not touching throttle plate at all. It is doing exactly what you describe, let off the throttle and. its slow coming to idle, and when it does its still a little high, and i can push the throttle plate all the way closed with my finger and it idles normal. Iv had others do this before and trace it back to the vaccum throttle slides being sluggish going down, but its not the case in this one.

I finally got around to installing the correct carb for the correct year on the Eiger, cable hooked up perfectly, actually a little long now, i had to adjust it out at the handlebar. It cranked up ran perfectly, but it should, i just put in new parts. As allways with me ,alternate problems arise. While running i goosed it a couple of times, good throttle response no hesitation, but, the throttle would stick for a bit going back to the idle position, it would not completely go back to home, i could push it back the last 1/8 in but would not go back by itself. So got to pull the carb back off and see why the throttle plate is binding, not sure if its a weak spring or just plate not adjusted correctly, the joys of rebuilding someone elses junk carb. I remember checking it and thought it was a little sluggish right at the closed position but thought it would be ok, and it might after i run it a bit, not sure how long it was sitting before i got it, just a tiny problem, but i cant unknow that its there, so got to get it right.

Agreed! I would go back with factory sized tires, unless you need the larger tires for your adventures.

Looking at the photos a little closer, it does not look like an add on, when i was looking up the electrics for the quest, there were several different models, i may not have looked up your exact model, it may be something to power an accessory thats no longer there since it runs good.

Hows the Kodiak coming a long,

Agreed! Hondas are great , they can be ignored cranked once a year with no issues and go and go. I never really liked the reverse switch on the older ones, a little annoying, but i cant really complain, it always works.

I like Kenda Bear Claw , but i dont need the big aggressive paaddle tread, need it occasionally, but they dont ride very good and not great for everyday use. The Kendas i buy have more of a lower profile tread but still enough to bite into the ground.

Im not really that familiar with the Quest , but the black box, i have never seen anything quite like it. I looked up the electrical components for that Quad and didnt see anything that looked like it. Wonder if it is an add on relay housing of some sort.