Gwbarm

Well if the flywheel came off then the nut and washers are missing, you have to find those, and the key, it may be in pieces, but you need to find the pieces, dont want any pieces floating around in the sump, even though they dont float they could cause problems later. Check to make sure the keyway and crank threads are not damaged and put everything back together by hand as Mech suggested if everything goes back together smoothly torque nut to 100ft pds. I used a ratchet wrench on the flywheel to hold it while i torque the nut, i dont like to use impact wrench for that.

It does sound like you have a connection problem with the power steering motor. If it does it again i would replace the plug.

Good stuff Mech! It does sound like a fuel delivery problem, but with all the sensors you need a manual like Mech suggested to do the diagnosis. You might have already done this, but a fuel injector cleaner wouldnt hurt and check all the connections at the sensors.

Welcome

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

It sounds like you have power to everything but the starter. I would check the start stop switch and the starter cutout relay.

Decided i had about enough of this and yanked the carb back out. Im fairly ssure the mixture needle was set too lean, although i set it to service manual specs. The needle was pertruding proud of the venturi. I knew it didnt look right and set it from expierience. Could be the needle was a little different in the kit i bought. While i had it down i deciided to fix the throttle plate, in order to do that i had to drill out the stripped screw. That went fairly well , finally got it out , the throttle plate was hard to get out, very tight, i planned on replacing the plate and throttle shaft, but not listed as replaceable parts. Completely disassembled i might try to use the shaft and plate from one of my aftermarket carbs, they are good for parts.If not i think ican clean these up enough to reuse, but would prefer to have new. Most times buying Ebay OEM carbs, are not plug and play, they require aa lot of work.

Good luck with the carb, with a little work it should clean up nicely, plastics look to be complete and should also polish up, with a little elbow grease. Lindseed oil works wonders on plastic oxidation.

Finally got back around to messing with the carb today. Still sticky, which i can deal with, but its idling too high, and idle screw is not touching the throttle plate,, but engine runs good with good throttle response. I checked everything seems good may try adjusting the mixture a liitle. I just rebuilt this , i must have missed something.

Thanks for the video very informative, although the last place i would have looked, right side of the battery.

I didnt take the diaphram off to get to the spring, it looked like i would damage the diaphram getting it off and its not listed as a replaceable part. It may be bad but it looked OK but may be hard and brittle. I thought about putting something like rubber rejuvinator on it to soften it up a bit, thought i would try it first, but then decided to just replace it.

Forgot to add the photo, it looks like a pretty descent petcock, we will see how it works out.

Well, I cleaned it all up polished the valve as best i could, it was pitted pretty bad, O ring was OK and rubber seemed to be OK will probably work, them i found the inlet screens were disintegrated not really usable, i think its still a good original Mikuni valve, but i elected not to use it for now. I found this brand new one i had that would fit. I went back and forth trying to decide and i elected to use the new aftermarket because it has On ,Off, and Reserve. I like to be able to turn the gas off if i need to, especially if i am not going to use it for a while i will turn off the gas and run the carb dry, plus it makes me feel more secure about not getting a crankcase full of gas if float valve is leaking. Havent figured out a good way to do that with a vacum petcock.

It’s good stuff, glad it worked for you.

What a mess, im surprized it was running at all!

Good point i havent looked there yet.

I got the snorkel removed, not a whole lot involved, nothing a hacksaw couldnt take care of. It looks as though it hadnt been hooked up for a while. Air box was missing when i got it so i couldnt really see the modifications there. Now just rerouting all the breather hoses to their correct location. On to the petcock, i originally thought it was an aftermarket, but it was original they just changed the design between 2004 and 2007. In fact im seeing a lot of changes, the headlights are rectangular instead of square, lots of parts still available for the 2007 that have been discontinued for the 2004.

Found out why no gas was getting through the petcock, tank was empty, Duh! So petcock must be leaking although i didnt see any signs of that, i knew their was not much gas in the tank last time i rode it. I let it get low so when i pulled the petcock to repair i wouldnt have to deal with gas going everywhere. So empty is a good thing.

Thanks for the link

Good plan! Good work! Keep us posted on your progress, always like seeing restorations in progress.

Thanks! I will try that

I just cranked it a couple of months ago no problems fired right up. A couple of problems, battery was weak, trying to charge it now, when i got it battery would charge up but wouldnt keep a charge for long, i put in a used battery i had from a yamaha XS400 its amazing how quickly batterys go down from non use. Also the petcock i noticed when i turned it to prime there was a lot of resistance, rubber had swollen to the point that no gas is getting through now at all.

Doesnt look like the tarp was doing much good there, glad you rescued it before it got worse. Your old stator which is OEM might still be good it you fix the chewed and broken exterior wires. I havent had the opportunity to work on the 250 and have never seen one only 350 and 400, is that a newly designed engine for the Big Bear only, and 2008 was getting close to the end of the Big Bear run.

Agreed

I bought this Eiger about a year ago it has been my runner while i worked on my other projects, except today it wouldnt crank, i suspect it is the petcock not letting fuel through. When i bought it it had a multitude of problems, but i just ignored those and rode it any way, put it on the back burner while i worked on my other projects with more serious problems, like stuck engine ,wiring harness ripped out, and wheels locked up. Got those all sorted out and since it wouldnt crank today decided it was time to refine this one. When i got it it had a bad Non OEM carb replaced it with a cheap aftermarket until i could find a descent priced OEM to rebuild, and have been riding it ever since. It also had a bad petcock, would only run on prime, neutral light didnt work, no brakes, which are a luxury anyway, but as im getting older luxurys are nice to have, so i guess i will fix those. I paid a little more for this one, $800 but he wanted $1500, because it ran and moved and most things seemed to work, and it didnt smoke, even with the bad carb. Generally 500 is my limit for a non runner, since this one ran i upped my limit a little. So i got it out of the shed before the mice got in it for the winter and started going over it today. I would never buy a new camouflaged one because of what you see here, and it almost stopped me from buying this one, but it is what it is, not much i can do for that now, they did look nice when new, i am toying with the idea of replacing the plastics while i can still get them, but am not there yet, expensive. I think the snorkel has got to go its not hooked up anyway. Looks like a perfect mouse house.