Gwbarm

Thats Bad, I think the first thing i would do is check all my connections and make sure they are good and tight. Im sure you have done that already. Does everything else seem to be working correctly, just no spark.

If it not an original OEM Mikuni carb i would just put on the new carb you ordered and see how thats works out, it will be fine. Its not normal for the needle to not move with the float there should be a little wire holder to attach it to the float, as the float moves up and down so does the needle. Sometimes inside the seat can get a little sticky and gummy and cause it to get sticky, i put a qtip in my drill with a little tooth paste on it to polish it up a bit and do the same on the needle sides, it slides a little smoother in the seat.

Good to hear from you EJ, i was just thinking about you yesterday , wondering how it was going. Good you went ahead and replaced the starter and soloenoid, dont want to be trying to get it going with that fighting you.

Thats great news! I hope everything works out , will be good to get it running after such a long wait. Thanks for keeping us informed, hearing it running will be worth the wait.

Good work! Glad you got it fixed

Working OK, not as good as when i first did it, maybe lube it with some slick 50, not up to my standards yet, i think i will try replacing the shaft, not listed as a replaceable part, but i am going to try one from one of my aftermarket carbs and see how it works.

It appears to just pull out with an O Ring to seal, item # 14, you might try spraying some carb cleaner around it and let it soak to help get it out.

Valvoline is good oil, i have never used their ATV oil, i have been using Yamalube mineral oil, it has the best rating and is not that much more expensive than any other, i have also used Suzuki Ecstar in my Suzukis no issues. I have also used Rotella and Castrol no issues with any of them.

Glad to hear you got it going I thought I remembered caltric having them but maybe don’t go back to 94

I like the older at ones myself I will keep looking also let you know if I find anything you might try the pin for a temporary fix until you find one

Chinese carb should get you running probably have to do some major cable adjustments, don’t throw your original mikuni away, that part I think you are referring to is the needle seat I’m sure it’s replaceable I just can’t remember if it pulls out or screws out I will take a look I have a similar big bear carb

Lubing the shaft before i reinstalled it helped a lot, working good now, not perfect but the best im going to get from this old carb, its pretty worn .

If you can get them relined that would be the best, but, i think the aftermarket company caltric makes them for the older Kodiaks.

I would try ebay, I use Ebay mostly for unobtanium parts.

Fairly easy job ,getting all the bolts out without breaking one is important. Once you get the cover off just unbolt the old and bolt on the new and make sure wires are routed correctly

I also bought one of the Weize batterys from Amazon, so far i have been fairly impressed with it, but i havent put it through what you have done with your, but so far its been better than the last one i bought, Mighty Max, had trouble with it from the beginning.

I have one of those angle adjusting tools, it works OK i also got one of these if you have enough room, some do and some dont, but it is a little easier to hold on to and turn while adjusting.

So are you running it in the prime position or the run position, i have only seen the prime position on a vaccum petcock, usally has off, on, and res., but there are many different aftermarket ones available im not familiar with.

The problems i have read involving the 850 scrambler are listed below but these can be avoided by doing proper maintenance. So i would not even consider these as problems they can happen to any Quad, maintenance is the proper precaution and the key to the longevity of the Quad. Problem Solution Starter problems Check battery and starter connections; replace if necessary Engine problems Regular maintenance; check oil and filters EPS problems Check EPS fuse and connections; replace if necessary Idle problems Adjust idle speed; check air filter Clutch problems Adjust clutch; check belt for wear and damage Steering problems Check steering components for damage and wear Transmission problems Check transmission fluid level and condition Hydraulic problems Check hydraulic fluid level and condition

From you voltage specs it seems your stator is putting out, how is your battery, is it fairly new, sometimes as they age they can corrode on the plates internally, the plates can actually bridge together which will cause charging problems, you might try using a higher amperage charger, maybe a 6 amp, the higher amperage will sometimes break the internal bridge and then it will charge normally. You might also check your voltage regulator for correct operation.

They dont all have O rings mine just had the plastic piece and spring, nothing but the spring holding the plastic piece and needle in place, and they are a little wobbly the main jet and plastic guide holds the needle in place.

I thought about that also but my reverse light comes right on , no issues with that, as soon as i put in in reverse its on. My neutral light is hit and miss the last time i used it wouldnt come on at all, which has happened before, but i may go out tomorrow and it will come on, hadnt quite figured this one out yet.

Patience is the key here, because those carb screws are tiny , get a center punch, i have one that pops when you push down on it to make the indentation to get it in the center of the broken screw, if its not in the center it will wander off and get into the threads, drill with the smallest drill bit you have, you will probably have to go a little larger with the hole later, but its best to start with a small hole, did i mention make sure its in the center of the broken screw. I dont particularly like ease outs but sometimes its the only way if its broken off flush. Soak the broken screw good with penetrating oil and since its in a carb i would also soak with carb cleaner it cleans out any varnish residue from the gas better. We want to try to get it out without damaging the threads but that does not always happen, if you get into the threads, dont panic there may be enough left to get the screw to hold , and if not you can tap for a size larger thread. I am working trrying to get one out of a throttle plate that the head stripped, it is being difficult, so i am taking my own advise and being patient, but it is so small, and they put them in with locktight and the screws are so soft , so i know what you are going through.

No bushings im just going to lube it up good and put it back together.

Not sure shaft or bushings are not shown as replaceable parts.