Gwbarm

Thats the start switch plug I think the pink wire used to be red and white it is the same wire that's in the last photo. The video was very informative but he didn't show how he fixed the grounding issues from the front end which is what I think is going on with mine also

Thank you for the info. I wasn't sure if the oil temp light should come on when key was turned on. I have 11.8 volts on both blue wires and 12.4 on red

Thanks for the help! Battery hooked up, turn key on, the neutral light lights up, the oil temp light does not, the starter does work there is power to the solenoid the starter will work when I jump solenoid with screwdriver. If I take the starter circuit relay out of the harness and bypass it with jumper wires the oil temp light comes on and I push the start button and it goes off until I release the button.

Trying to figure out why the start button won't make the starter rotate there is a discrepancy in the wiring harness somewhere.

I was just looking there are several on there that covers the 2000 Model BIG Bear with different letters on the end, according to my VIN number search I have YFM400F/YFM400FH I may be looking at the wrong manual because I did see one for the YFM400F.

Mech just checked to make sure which manual I was looking at it is the 2000 Big Bear / Kodiak WFM400FWA[M]

I haven't looked at the other manual, you are right inside the starter switch is very clean shouldn't be a problem there I wasn't expecting that because the wires on the plug in side are very faded, but it looks to be a fairly new switch.

Aftermarket coils are cheaply made, iv had them bad right out of the box, if these are OEM coils made for the bike I would be greatly concerned

Thanks I appreciate your help, I am using the 2000-01 Big Bear 400 repair manual.

I know this thread is getting old too many projects going on at once plus honey doos, I v been working on the wiring on the big bear not making much progress, at this point im just trying to get the starter to go by pushing the button At the solenoid the blue and black wire go to the start button from the start button if it was not aa generic start button. There is continuity from the blue/black wire from solenoid to the main harness connector pictured to the far left is the connector to the switch you can see the colors don't match up so iv been trying to figure what goes where and the connector in the center goes to the start stop switch. I hooked it all back up and went to the starter cutout relay and bypassed it and got the oil/temp light to light up, so I know its bad, with this bypassed I push the start button and the light goes out as long as I hold the button down. So I opened up the switch the black/white and black wire goes to start/stop switch and red/white and blue got to start button.So I thought I would run this by you guys may you can catch something I missed, I think I have a grounding issue somewhere in the harness but haven't found it yet.

I have downloaded several from manualslib.com.

From what I see it looks like the parts would fit, I would be a little concerned about the quality of the oil filter and spark plug I like to put quality oil filters in my rigs.

You can check the connections to the information center, it sounds like a sensor not recognizing you have shifted, im a little suprized it will move forward if it thinks you are in reverse. I would try unplugging connections cleaning with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in. That would be my first step.

The trigger coil is located under the rotor stator cover of the engine as the rotor goes around the magnet causes the trigger coil to pulse causing spark not sure on your bike but my guess would be the blue and white wire, you can test with OHM meter by going blue white to ground. Not sure on your bike most have 200 OHM coils set meter to 2000OHM should show .2 on meter good range is usually .2 to .4

As Jim said, probably, but this is what I do: After installing the carb it should start right up and you can usually tell if its running good or not, if running OK i drive it around a little and get everything flowing good and warmed up, make sure the air box and all hoses and filter are back in place, then I turn the mixture screw to left until it starts running poorly and then I turn it back to the right until again it starts running poorly and some where in the middle of these two points where the engine is running the smoothest is where I stop. The last two aftermarket carbs I installed I had to adjust the idle, down near where the cable connects to the carb is a screw to do that with, if you are putting on OEM you might not have to do that step.

If you found the air fuel mixture screw I would try adjusting that first to see if it helps, if not then move the needle , on a new carb you should not have to move the needle, this is just a suggestion , all aftermarket carbs should be close enough to factory to run properly for a while. Thats my experience .

It looks good, glad you got it all fixed up,

I do have everything wired back up not exactly in place because a lot of the wires including solenoid and battery fit on top of the rear fender. I will take some photos and post tomorrow

Thanks! I have the repair manual and have been working on putting the wiring harness back together so I can start testing for correct voltages everywhere. I did a VIN # internet search and this is what I found Mech, that's the same thing my wife said.

My state claims there is no way to make an ATV street legal. https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/all-terrain-vehicle-atv-laws-mississippi

It seems that ATV transmissions are moving more toward automatic these days, I would like to hear other members opinions and experiences, what do you like best Automatic or semi automatic in relation to, power , ease of use, and reliability.

Thanks for looking for me, mine ia a 2000 Big Bear 400, wiring harness is different for the 350, in fact, im having a lot of trouble finding parts for the 2000 except OEM , when the year range its listed for generic parts the 2000 model is always omitted don't know what's different about it. See plenty for the 2000 Kodiak, which I thought would be about the same, but not Big Bear.

From what I get, you are using fusion, a krypton paint for plastic, over the sherwin Williams bonding primer. The question is why use bonding primer if fusion is for plastic.

Very nice, haven't seen one in a long time, I had one back in the 70s

Iv heard that story more than once, happened to me more than once, this is what I do, transmissions can be tricky, double check to make sure everything is where it needs to be, don't forget the shims they are easy to loose they stick to other parts.Gear clusters have to be installed together with the shift fork, come down slowly with the other case half, wiggling it as you go down, should fall in place, make sure its not binding on the crank bearing, if its binding there you might need to put a little heat on bearing. Why did you have to split the case to replace top end?