Gwbarm

The Kodiak is automatic and water cooled, the Big Bear is semi automatic and oil cooled

When replacing mine after i was sure everything was lined up i had to wiggle it a little side to side to get everything to slip in place, but i was also fighting the rotor magnets.

Im just starting on my rims and all these tips are very helpful. Thanks!

I ended up going with a Niche flywheel for my Eiger, i have used Niche aftermarket parts in the past and they have been good. Installed it and started right up, certainly ran better than the OEM one with the magnets moving all around.

Good buy there JS, looks to be in good shape, for a fuel leak you may not even need a manual. Nice find!

I remember seeing the rusty fuel pump back in post #223, but wasnt sure if it was the one from the 250 or the 300, but that may not be what you were referring to.

When im rebuiling them i try to go back With OEM also , i want to get it as close to factry as possible, but i will admit when my rotor went bad in my Eiger magnets came loose, i did not pay the 600 for OEM, i cheaped out. Sound like you had a blast in the water hope everything dries out good. Glad you have got it going, you have worked hard on it.

I have that manual also, that does both, but it reality there are quite a few differences, a lot of the engine parts are interchangeable and both have basically the same engine but the Kodiak is water cooled, big bear is not, the Kodiaks wiring is a little different some of it is close but the CDIs are different.

I have expierience in that area, more than i would like to have, actually. When it comes to fuel delivery and electrical problems i dont mess around, been put down to many times and i always say when will you learn, i finally did. I would replace the fuel pump it really looks bad. The vacum fuel petcocks are troublesome the vacum assembly swells up after time and restricts fuel flow. I have rebuilt them with a kit but they never seem to last. Both of the bikes i am working on now had their petcocks replaced with manual ones, i like the manual ones because i can turn the fuel off and run the carb dry if its not going to be used for a while, but if i were doing it i would have gone back with original thats what they were set up for. Just my opinion.

Cover fit fairly well they only missed it by a little bit. Back seam lined up good side seams lined up good front seam didnt quite go over the lip, but i still have to smooth it out. I used spray adhesive to the foam to hold it tight. The only problem i still have to work out is my staple gun(mechanical) wont shoot the staple in to the plastic very far it sticks but not deep enough to hold, may have to get a pneumatic one. Been wanting one anyway, i dont think the electric ones are any more powerful than the mechanical ones. The Suzuki logo lined up fairly well, but you can see the front seam is a little lacking on this test fit. Just looking at the photo it looks like the side seam could be stretched down a bit also, the logo is really good but they could have centered it a little better between top and bottom, but thats nit picky stuff. Overall im very happy with the cover, it worked out better than i expected, i dont do enough of these to be really good at it.

It should be flush with the case, but looking at the photo it doesnt appear to be enough to have caused the problem.

I havent had the oportunity to work on a bike like yours but i have had my share of troubles with aftermarket parts, it like a crap shoot. The first question would be will the plugs supplied with the unit plug into your original wiring harness. If so, and everything else is putting out what it needs it should work, unless its a bad part from the company, how do you know. I would procede with checking the pick up coil for proper resistance, and see if its putting out voltage. Lets just assume that the new part is good. Lets check to make sure we are getting 12v and ground to the CDI, and check the primary and secondary coils on the ignition coil are in proper specs. As a mechanic im sure you have checked all this but with an aftermarket part the wires may not be the right color for your original wiring harness, if the plugs plug in, we like the think that its wired correctly. If you have checked all these other things and still no spark we have to think the new part is bad. You might check the starter cut out relay for correct operation, but if it was bad you would not be getting rotation from the start button. I will check to see if i can find a wiring diagram and see what i can come up with.

Ebay 34.00 not an original but looked nice. havent put it on yet was just sizing it up

Decided to try and reupholster the seat, this might get interesting.

Ej sorry to hear that, bad things happen to good people, no trouble, dont let it get you down, mistakes happen, they happen to all of us, you are a big man to admit yours for everyone to see. it will get right, just about anything that could go wrong has happened to you on your project. You just suck it up and come back for more, you are an inspiration to all of us, very impressive, with all the other things you have going on. Keep it up and good luck!

Perfect plot of land for riding quads, did the same about 30 years ago and made trails all trough for the kids to ride on, lots of fun.

Welcome aboard, i like that generation Kodiak, almost bought one but the deal fell through. Dont let the bug bite too hard or you will end up with more than you have room for, ask me how i know LOL.

Interesting, What do you have for a throttle.

The REV limiter is generally a screw in the throttle housing you can change the rev limits by screwing it in or out.

You guys are doing a great job, still here and keeping up with your progress. Sounds like its coming along good.

Glad you got it sorted out, runs good and sounds and shifts good, hopefully the speedometer will come around, sometimes the grease in the mechanisnm gets hard and brittle from age and siting and just takes a little persuasion and a little oil to get it loosened up and moving again.

I usually can tell if gas is in the oil by feel, its thinner than it should be, and not much viscocity, and has a gassy smell, of couse with it out you can certainly tell by looking at it, but if you go to the trouble of getting it out, you might as well put in new, but only after you are sure its not leaking in there anymore.

Glad to hear, i guess i read it wrong, i was under the impression you were rebuilding the LT300e carb with the Shindy LT4WD kit. I thought you said the original mikuni for that bike was trashed. Your doing great!

The crankcase vent is on the top of the crankcase where mech said just to the left of 21 It appears there were 2 different carbs that came on the 88 model depending on the model letter this is a diaphram model it had a 122.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet with a 160 air jet. This one had cable actuated slide it had a 100 main and a 22.5 pilot no air jet listed This is the one from the 300e with cable slide 112.5 main and 20 pilot. I dont know if this helps at all because like mech said fuel getting into the crancase is the problem, we have to figure that out.

I see where i got confused, you have the LT4WD which is a 250, you put the carb from your LT300 on it but jetted with the correct jets from a Shindy carb kit for the LT4WD. From what you described it does sound like the crankcase needs to breathe better. Still doesnt explain why you are getting gas into the oil, only way is if leaking by float needle and intake valve is not seating completely.