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Found 10 results

  1. According to my manual I need 25/12/10 tires. I can't find them used. Can a 25/11/10 be put on without modifications? Or anyone know of where to get the tire size I need?
  2. What might cause the outside half of my right front tire to wear way faster than the inside or other tires? 07 650
  3. It's been a while since I looked around at buying ATV tires, so just wondering where everyone is buying their ATV tires from these days? Do you just go to the dealer or do you order them online somewhere? If you get them online, who do you buy from and did you mount them yourself? Also please list your ATV tire brand. 👍
  4. Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
  5. Check out this new product for sidewall repair. Go to kickstarter.com, and search "sidewall slug", You will find the only product on the market that can field repair a sidewall tear in an off road vehicle without removing the tire from the rim. I have permission from the website owner to mention their site.
  6. From the album: Oh boy

    Tire falls off along ways from home. We're able to jimmy rig a repair.
  7. The folks at QuadBoss sent us a gallon of their famous ATV tire sealant to check out. It came in a cardboard box and in the form of a one gallon white bottle with an attachable pump. You basically take off the cap and then insert and screw on the pump assembly. The directions are printed out right on the bottle. Just perfect for our older stock Dunlop tires that tend to leak small amounts of air. Keep in mind, It's almost mid January and we're here in the Northeast where temperatures dip down to the single digits at night. So since it's not supposed to solidify or freeze, we gave it a go. Installation is not hard. You will need a tire valve core remover, a tire pressure gauge, and an air source to replace the air you need to take out. We've got our little screw on valve core remover that the auto guys use and a shop air compressor to fill us back up quickly. To give you an idea of what QuadBoss' ATV Tire Sealant is supposed to do, here are some bullet points: •Seals up to 1/2” puncture in the tread and 1/4” puncture in the sidewall •Stops bead leaks and pinhole leaks in rims •Will not solidify or freeze (above -33°F) •Will not rust steel, corrode aluminum wheels or clog valve core •Environmentally benign and water washable •Works for the life of the tire We started by taking out all our valve stems, so that all the air would come out of the tires. We made sure the valves were positioned on the top side so that when the tire collapses from no air, you can still have access to the inside of the tire through the valve, with a clear entry way. After that, you just pump in the amount of sealant that you need. QuadBoss gives you a chart right on the bottle which says: Utility ATV Tires (8"-12" rims) 32 oz per tire Sport ATV Tires (9" - 10" rims) 16 oz per tire Dirt Bike Tires 4-8 oz per tire Every pump stroke injects 1 ounce of sealant, so in our case it was 32 pumps per tire. After we pumped in the sealant, we screwed back in the vale cores, and inflated the tires back to manufacturer's specs. Took the quad for a rip to evenly disburse the sealant. Did not affect the feel of the quad and one would never know the sealant was added. It's a preventative measure for your tires, but in our case, we always saw a bit of a drop in tire pressure after a week. So we added this just before last week's snow storm and took it out this week...tire pressure is all good. Looks like we added some life to our older stock tires and will definitely be using this in our new tires down the road. We're going to be interested to see how much air pressure fluctuation we get in our ATV tires when spring arrives. We'll just have to wait and see, and send in an update. You can find QuadBoss tire sealant on their website: www.quadboss.com Also available on Amazon
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