Gwbarm

You have power to the starter so your cutoff relay is working. You can check your start stop switch to see if its working like it's supposed too. There should be a black to ground and a black and white that goes to the cdi. What I always do when I have no spark , is check to make sure you have 12 v going to CDI should be R/W wire make sure you have a good ground at CDI make sure you have 12v going to coil from CDI orange wire. Check to make sure you have correct resistance at the pickup coil, not sure on the 350 but on the 400 W/G wire and W/R wire, you can also check to make sure the pickup coil is actually putting out voltage as you are cranking. There is no test to make sure the CDI is good, the manual tells you to check all these systems and if they are all in spec and still no spark replace the CDI. I don't have a manual for the 350. I will see if I can find one and take a look to see how different wiring is from the 400 which I am quoting from memory.

I think I would replace the plug and fuel filter and see if you have adequate fuel flow to the carb. It still sounds like fuel delivery Sorry Mech I just saw you recent post didn’t mean to repeat what you said

I get them at Harbour freight.

Still working it, I got the bulk of the stressed metal off with a diamond bur and finishing up with the oil stone, looking a lot better but still can't get the shift dogs off the shaft. There are raised areas at the outer edge of the trough which I think are stopping it from coming off. I found a stone that would just fit in the trough, just slow going, just going a little at a time, I will eventually get it. It will now go all the way to the end of the grooved area and im sure will work fine, but I want to keep at it until I can get the dogs off the shaft. waiting on parts anyway, I am getting some new OEM thrush washers and outer gear, so I will be positive they will be the right fit. If you noticed in the last phot, bottom right is the stone im using, it is actually a dental instrument sharpening stone small and good to get in the tight areas.

The vin# on my suzuki is on the rear frame downtube left hand side

Ranchers are nice , have fun with it.

Still working it, I got the bulk of the stressed metal off with a diamond bur and finishing up with the oil stone, looking a lot better but still can't get the shift dogs off the shaft. There are raised areas at the outer edge of the trough which I think are stopping it from coming off. I found a stone that would just fit in the trough, just slow going, just going a little at a time, I will eventually get it. It will now go all the way to the end of the grooved area and im sure will work fine, but I want to keep at it until I can get the dogs off the shaft. waiting on parts anyway, I am getting some new OEM thrush washers and outer gear, so I will be positive they will be the right fit. If you noticed in the last phot, bottom right is the stone im using, it is actually a dental instrument sharpening stone small and good to get in the tight areas.

Agreed, if you are bypassing the solenoid, you are putting 12v directly to the starter, its the starter or connections at the starter. That could also be your battery drainage problem.

Good advise! Thanks.

I use what my station that sells it, calls 100% gasoline sold by Chevron, but they state it is not a Chevron product, they only have regular, no premium, iv been using it for a few years, since COVID price is almost $1.00 a gallon more, I still buy it though, its better than cleaning your carb every year. I have used fuel stabilizers and they don't seem to help much.

That may be an older version of a starter cutoff relay, haven't seen any thing like that on my Bear.

Been working on it all morning tried the oil stone first it really polishes and makes the metal look nice, I had about a 3mm raise on the shaft end and realized I didn't want to do this until 2093, so I had some polishing stones for my dremmel tool, worked good getting the lip off not as polished looking as the oil stone, but still won't come off the shaft, got to work on it a little more. I think there is still a raised area in the valley when I finish and can get it off the shaft smooth it out with the oil stone.

It's really bad so many people are throughing away their original good carbs because they can buy aftermarket replacement cheaper than a kit. I found a seller on Ebay that sells brand new Mikuni carbs for about 200 if you are interested. I am on a quest to replace all the carbs on my bikes with original only one more to go. I have bought 3 bikes in the last year and all had aftermarket carbs on them.

Oh ! A Knife sharpening stone, I didn't think that would be aggressive enough, very rarely use them. I will give it a try

Not having much luck yet at smoothing the end of the shaft back down, a file wasn't doing much, so I got a dremmell with a flat metal cutting disc, that was working fairly well but you end up hitting places with it you don't want to hit, I may end up getting a diamond bur, flat, and working it back down with that. The sliding piece that engages the dogs does hit the lip, but it's so close to the end of its run can't really tell if it will cause a problem.

Descent price and free shipping, I went ahead and ordered it, taking a closer look at the bushing it is pretty specific, it has little diamond shapes cut on the inside surface, for oil to pool and oil the shaft.

Battery good, connection is good, iv had that happen with a bad relay(soloenoid), the one with the 30A fuse, sometimes they just get old and stick, you might tap it gently with a hammer and see if it goes, or even the starter gets brush dust down in it and won't go , may try tapping that with a hammer , only after you make sure your battery is good. Mine was doing that when I would first try to start it, I knew I had put the wrong size battery cable on it when I was redoing the electrics, I used a lawn tractor cable thought sure it would be enough even though it was physically smaller, replaced it with OEM cable and never had another problem. My long winded point is check your battery cables also. Oh one other thing the 2093 Kodaks will probably be lithium crystal powered.

Thanks I went several places today , no luck, all of the bushings are thicker and not the right diameter, and brass, suzuki doesnt even list it as a replacement part. I will look im sure there are some industrial supplies that may have one. It would be less trouble to just order the used gear on eBay for 12.00.

Fuel filter is built into the petcock part# 49019, this must be an add on after the petcock somewhere in the fuel line

I have seen those LCD gauges get weak and fade over time, but would check voltage as Mech suggested, and also ground could be weak.

It does sound like it's running out of gas, but no spitting or sputtering it just dies. It sounds like it's idling at about 3000 rpm. I generally run mine carbs dry if I am not going to use it for a while and they don't sound like that, they slow down and then speed up before they die.

I really like the tread, a good in between design, aggressive but not overkill.

Thanks Mech, those are my thoughts also, clean it up, I was surprised to see the ridge on the end of the corrugated area caused by the washer, I would have thought the shaft metal would have been harder and obliterated the washer. I am thinking of filing that down even with the rest of the shaft, republish the smooth surface that the bushing rides on and trying with the gear on the right way and see how it works. Im going to see if I can find a bushing to fit tomorrow, if not I have found another gear on eBay reasonable with bushing in tact that should work. I think I will even try the original case for now and see if everything works. Im wondering if the bearing that was raised up in the case may have happened when I was trying to get the case off, I did have to get rough with it to get it off.

Nice looking machine glad you got it sorted out, was it the decompression valve causing it not to turn over.

Well finally got enough nerve to get out in the the heat and get it off, heat index got up to 114, but I had to know. Gear pulled of fairly easily but left the bushing behind Bushing came off but it wasn't really happy about it, it had a crack in it also I didn't do that it was already there. Washer had wedged itself down in the grove, but it came out, more difficult than the bushing. Shaft has some damage not sure howits going to affect anything, may have to replace it. Gear and shaft both got extremely hot not sure if that's from actually using it, or just running the engine, it did run when I got it but I didn't run it very long, previous owner may have. This can get into a fairly expensive fix, flywheel, stator is ok, sometimes that gets toasted as well, shaft, gear and case. Everything else seems OK. It could have been worse.