Ulfthednar

The one item I just picked up if Im not using the passenger seat is the infill rack. I also have both rack extenders for mine. I modified the rear one a bit by adding a lower rail to it. I also have a pair of Plano Ammo Crates bolted down to a couple of the inserts for stuff thats always on the bike. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722CZMXZ?tag=bravesoftwa04-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&language=en_US the racks are useful. the funky shaped boxes dont leave much room for stuff on top, but theres a cargo box that snaps on in place of the rear seat available outside the states.

Your friend has an excellent friend.

Got others in the works. Been years since I really played with editing software and content creation. ATV+Gopro+Davinci. https://youtu.be/-JV-xEq9uW8

Right? I can usually track down ELECTRICAL issues. Electronic problems? Those can be a hassle with nothing more than a multimeter. I was at least trying to Isolate where to look . but oh . . the silly little buzzer. Ill take it.

First actual WTF breakdown on my 22 CFMoto Cforce800XC Id been running around all day in the hills before this and had just stopped and fueld up my Bush Bike, stopped for a beer at the Kings Inn and headed home I had enough time to work on gathering material for a project at home and got to it. Fortunately I was in my upper backyard when the bike went dead. Died. No lights. No dash. All the way in my upper backyard. Nothing. I was able to dead stick it all the way (around 500 yds) down the hill right up to my garage and started poking around. I found that my Main ignition fuse was popped. Went to stick one in and it popped again. So I have a short. So I started feeling the wires out and looking for obvious issues. Then I start checking components, unplugging them one by one to see if that negated the short condition. Just as I was about to accept scheduling a trip to the shop, I decided to check the oil pressure buzzer which is part of the ignition circuitry. I unplugged it, and no short. Plugged it back in, and the short was back. I unplugged it, turned the bike on and everything came on the fuel pump pressured up. The dash cycled through a reset display, settled down and I started the bike. I turned it off and feeling my way along started tracking down the buzzer. Well. The stupid thing had fallen out of the dash niche, worked its way through the little gap around the steering column with it's 18 inch leads and had landed on the front exhaust pipe, melted through causing a direct wiring short and direct short to the engine/chassis as well and took out the primary fuse. Of course I figured it out after I'd stripped all my personal gear off so it wasnt in the way at the shop. I was able to shorten the leads and take out the damaged section so it's functioning til I get a new one. I still have to put the panels and racks and everything back together but it's running with no faults or errors and displaying the correct information. I'll take that for a first breakdown.

Anywhere it might get wet. Which is pretty well anywhere. In the process of chasing down my connectors and doing the same.

Yup. The first few times requires lots of cussing. Then you get the hang of it.

I had to leave something out for the Tire Virgins to figure out independently . . .

Lay it flat, use a spray bottle with about 10% dawn dishsoap and water. Spray genrously and let sit. If the tires have been on the rim for awhile it's going to take some effort. You might want to go around the rim with a deadblow (plastic) hammer or similar to start breaking the bead seal. You can lay a 1x4 over the rim where your working to keep from smacking your rim. Your going to have to do both sides. Do both sides First. I usually lay a piece of plywood down under a manual bead breaker. Just makes it more stable and less likely to damage something. Make sure you take your valve core is out of the stem too. Break both beads first. If the bead breaker doesnt work there are other methods to break a bead seal, but they start getting kind of sketchy. Most rims are designed to pull the outer bead over the front side first, then the inner bead over the front/outside. You can tell by the softer (often narrower) radius near the rim seat. You can find rim protectors that slip onto the edge of the rim. I would seriously suggest using them unless you hate your rims. Or you can use vinyl edge trim thats wide enough to slip over the edge of the rim. THREE tire spoons, not two. Trust me. THREE SPOONS. You get one in (small bites), get your second one in then use your third spoon to lock it into place. Stic it in as close as you can, swing it over the second spoon and hold it with your knee. Then you leap frog the first spoon and take another small bite. If you take too big of a bite, you will just undo everything you already did. Repeat. Once your about halfway you will feel the pressure ease and might be able to just pull it by hand the rest of the way. Locking the spoons with a third lever helps prevent getting slapped in the face. (I made a custom set of 36" ones) The shorter your sidewall in relation to your rim, the more of a fight your in for. Once you get the tire off wash your rim, and scrub the bead seat on the rim. Steel wool on a steel rim is fine but use a plastic scrubby on Aluminum. On a steel rim you can knock the rust down with mid to fine sandpaper. Your just knocking rust off, not trying to polish it. DONT sand aluminum ones. Good time to look for cracks, pitted metal on aluminum or cracking welds on steel rims. My solution now is to be grateful I DON'T have to hand change tires routinely like I used to. At one point I could do a truck tire off and back on in about 15 minutes. ps, the dots/circles on the tires are alignment indicators.

Ive noticed that in some of their tools as well. even their lower end ones are pretty reliable and they make this bendy 3/8 ratchet handle that is the absolute bomb. I would love in a fantasy world to buy that big obnoxious ICON tool chest. Im running out place to store my tool collections.

I picked up a pretty brutal set of chains then modified the front ones to fit properly. (I think the company accidentally sent me two pair sized for the rear tires). I also modify and repair the chains for my trucks and my little tractor as well. I'll have to throw them on for lumpy farts and exasperated laughter and snag a picture or two.

Im kinda similar. Mind ya'll I plan on leaving my shovelhead to my kids or grandkids. Not gonna stop riding. But this ATV thing? Everything I used to love about being a biker, but without all the a'holios on the pavement. Cagers and street bikers alike. can't go anywhere on my harley without some poseurs SOA wanna be biker or crotch rocket crawler being a douche torpedo. Never mind the cagers crawling up my exhaust til I flash em whats riding on my belt. I just want to Ride. to be out there . . I love riding, always have. I can spend days lost on a bike, never being lost. My ATV kinda brings the best of both back into play.

Even on a good day its a stiff walk up there. I carried the small deck by hand about 1/3 of the way up. figured an ATV would make such things a lot easier. And it gives me more time to go find places . . .

Just a quick test video while I'm learning to use my gopro (really, $250 discount I couldn't pass it up). This is from my side drive to the top of the property. The Dog loves the runs. No snowflakes were injured in the production of this video. https://youtu.be/tKjBFuHCkM0

I've known a couple of people that have owned them. The one thing they all agreed on was theres a couple of weld points (forget where) that they rewelded and have gotten good service out of them.

assuming you have the owners manual, it has the basic rundown on routine maintenance and specs. It also has the intervals. Ive got vtwin 800xc and in my experience it is relatively easy to work on compared to a number of other vehicles. The service manual goes into other maintenance more thoroughly though not completely. guess theyre trying to retain some trade secrets, but it is worth the $35 or so at the various places that have them.

Tip #1. Be religious about your maintenance.

Try reading the specs on the specific tire on your machine. There are different specs on sidewall ratings, flexibility and bead retention characteristics these days. They aint all the same.

Agreed. Not quite "top end" quality, but . . most of what Ive seen is readily upgradeable. Should have mentioned from a mechanics point of view the fit of the engine on mine is, well, visibly it is top notch. no sprue or slag, not inclusions in the metal, nice surface finish and that extends to the valve covers which are heavy flexible (ABS?) with a wide multi ribbed neoprene seal. The seat on mine is pretty decent as well. I've spent a number of long days in it already and have yet to get saddle sore. Think "cruiser" level but not "dresser" comfortable.

Theyre not race machines, but Im pretty content with my CForce 800XC. The most consistent thing I have seen reading other peoples stories and issues seem to be centered around how well specific dealers do the pre flight work on them. Or in how well folks follow the break in on them.

This is the style I picked up. They make more sense where I'm at and for the use they are likely to see. https://tirechainsonline.com/part-no-atv3ds/#gallery

I ended up removing cross links (not til I test fitted them though) The rear fit fine but when I put the front on they were about a razor blade from hitting the brake line. With spacers on they were striking the caliper itself. Neither was an acceptably result. Now they fit to the point to where I almost don't need tensioners at all. I still have to do a final fitting before I start cutting off extra material.

Wish I could have found $50 sets. No worries though Ive got mine sized to my tires finally today.

yeah, sounds like a carb issue to me as well. Blocked port or passage.

oh . . hes arguing on the basis of his logic skills, not experience. Kind of like reminding a government official of what their capacity is supposed to be.