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dctaz37

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Everything posted by dctaz37

  1. I recently rebuilt the motor on my neighbor's quad and I accidentally burnt the manual and now they are asking what oil to use so they can have some on hand. I know it was 10W40 but there was a minimum specifications like sp or sh. Also, does anyone know where I can get a cheap manual for this atv so I can replace the one I destroyed.
  2. I hear you. I figure the quad is worth between 2000-2500 and my guess is a local shop would have charged at least 20 hrs@$85= 1720 plus there would be a mark up on the parts probably to 800 so the total would be $2530. I would charge a stranger around $25/hour but for the neighbor I figure $15 is more than fair and I did spend more than the 35 hours on it. I just wish someone could give me an idea that 35 hours is reasonable for the listed work. I know if I did it a second time I could shave the hours down. I figure investing 470 parts + 530 labor=$1000 sounds about right.
  3. I was hoping to find out from someone on this forum what a fair price for this job is. I was thinking 400-500 would be more than fair. The parts bill was $470.
  4. He had it fixed approx. 3 years ago, spent 600 at a shop and it ran for less than a month. The machine was sitting for three years stored in a barn. Needless to say it was a mess, the mice were all through it and the air box was their home. The machine wasn't running so I took it apart to see what was wrong. I discussed the various problem as I went along and made sure he wanted them fixed. He is a neighbor not necessarily a friend. He said that he knew I wouldn't rip him off so we didn't really agree on a labor charge. They aren't mechanically inclined and don't make the time to look after their stuff. They were jump starting it with their tractor because it wouldn't start with the starter or pull cord. I just wanted to have an idea of how much a shop or home mechanic would charge and if the number of hours were in the ball park. I spent a lot more time than that with running around but I thought 35 hours was fair as some of the stuff I had to research.
  5. I winged it a little as getting a feeler gauge in there just plain sucks. I left a little play where I can move them with a little click. It sound and runs great now. I delivered it to them yesterday and I'm glad to get it out of my garage. Thanks for all your help.
  6. I spent at least 35 hours on this project not including the running around for parts and the machine shop. Approximately how many hours would it take you for the described work? They are neighbours and I have already done them too many free jobs. I will probably be bartering for eggs and meat. Thanks.
  7. Can anyone help me price out the labor for the following work? I did the work for a friend and wanted to know a ball park on how much it would have cost to have done. Description of work done: changed oil and filter removed and installed: plastic fenders,exhaust,racks,head,cylinder,valves,piston,battery,air box,air filter,carburetor repaired fender cracks repaired winch cable+controls replaced cylinder rings+intake valve rewired to bypass faulty switches replaced starter button spring fixed many lost bolts adjusted rear brakes installed gas cap vent cleaned carburetor adjusted valves 2 plugs in left rear tire
  8. I'm not sure what winch but I figured it out. Thanks.
  9. I took apart the winch control to clean the contacts and I can't seem to figure out how to put the spring back in. Does anyone have a diagram?
  10. I adjusted the valve lash and it is running quiet now. I bypassed the neutral safety switch and replaced the spring on the start button. Now it starts. Now I'm putting back on the plastic and have to repair the winch control. I cleaned the contacts and it seems to work but I don't know how to put the spring back in. I'm going to start a new post in case someone has a diagram.
  11. Ok, I put it all back together and it is running. It is making a log of ticking noises so I'm guessing the valve lash needs to be asjusted. It is hard to get at the adjustment with a feeler gauge and the clearance is only .001 inches so I might just try to tighten them until I have a tiny little bit of play. What do you think?
  12. Thanks, I'll let you know when I get it back together. I still have to figure out why the electronics don't work. I can jumper the solenoid and the starter cranks. I think the start button and solenoid are toast. I was thinking that I could just bypass the start button with a switch and wire in a generic solenoid. I also think the neutral switch is bad as there is no neutral light when it is in neutral. Not sure on the cost for the original solenoid, neutral switch and start button but I'm guessing it would be cheaper to install what I suggested.
  13. I took the head to a machine shop and they are going to grind the vavle seats. The intake valve is worn out so I ordered that and I figured I might as well get rings while I'm doing all this.
  14. I hear you, i'll take it in and have an engine place recommend/service it. I would hate to do all this work and not have the thing run. I still don't think that was the problem for it not running. I cleaned up the valves and the exhaust valve had a lot of dirt on the top.
  15. The liquid takes a few seconds to start getting through but it is a tiny bit seeping, overnight the intake chamber does not empty. I rented the spring compressor and removed the valves and cleaned them up. They look pretty good, the exhaust seat is a little pitted but the intake look pretty good. I just don't want to spend money if I don't need to.
  16. Ok, I'll make sure I make a new post each time. Do you think the valves really need to be addressed? I cleaned them up with cleaner and they look pretty good. At this point I'm thinking either the gasket was toast as it looks pretty rough or the guy who adjusted the valves did it incorrectly. The guy at the machine shop said the cost to do the valve job just for labour would be $85+tax. He said a little bit of leakage from the valves shouldn't be a big deal.
  17. The piston, rings and cylinder look okay. I brought them to a machine shop just to verify my opinion. He said to pour some liquid in each of the ends of the head to see if the valves are seted properly. If it leaks he said there is a problem. I am going to check if the valves are seated properly next. I'm not sure what valve lash is. I'm back, the valves let a tiny bit if liquid through but the guy at the machine shop said it would be no big deal. Should I get the tool to take the valves out? I found th serial number, JSAAJ45A4L2107789 Model LTF4WD. The book says that vin means it is a 1990, what do you think? How about the motor size? I have an old invoice and it is listed as a 250 but I couldn't find anything on the machine to back that up.
  18. There was actually 4 blue wires so I fixed them but it didn't change anything. No neutral or reverse light. The wires went to a switch that screws in the diff. I have spark and was able to crank it over by running a hot wire to the solenoid. That is when I determined there was little compression so it was cranking over fast. I'm not sure if it smoked or not but the repair guy said he changed the oil and when I drained it it was black. I already tried the gas in the cylinder. I'm going to worry about the starter later once I can get it running. I have removed the head and will get to the cylinder out shortly. The question now is 1)how do I figure out the year? 2)do I replace the piston and rings or just the rings?
  19. I ran wires directly to an external battery and it cranks over. The neutral light doesn't come on so I was thinking that the neutral safety switch might be the problem. I also noticed 3 broken blue wires that go somewhere to the rear of the machine. I don't have a compression tester but if I put my finger over the spark plug hole it is easy to block the air. When I do the same test on my yamaha big bear, I can't hold my finger to block the air. They only ran it a few hours after it came back from repairs so I can't see the valves being out of adjustment being the problem. If I take it apart should I change the piston and rings? Will the damage be obvious? I have the manual so I'm assuming I can follow it. They don't have the money to pay someone so I am doing this as a favour.
  20. Hi, I am working on a machine for my neighbor LT250 fwd and have several problems. 1)I don’t know what year it is because I can’t locate the serial number.2)The starter doesn’t work when I push the button. It is in neutral, the parking brake is on and the key is on. The neutral light and reverse lights do not come on. I can bypass the starter button with a wire to the solenoid and it turns over. 3) There is spark and fuel but it won’t start. I already cleaned the carb. 4)The compression seems low because when I put my finger over the spark plug hole it does not push my finger off. They spent 500 bucks a while back and one of the items the guy did was adjust the valves. Not sure if this could be the problem. It lasted a month after they got it back and it has been dead since. Any help would be much appreciated.
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