crkid

Thank you a lot! also, the pilot screw is under the bowl of the carb, but it is closer to the intake side which leads me to believe it is an air screw, but I know most 4 strokes have a fuel screw. Do you know which it is? just so I know which way to turn it.

oxidized_black, exactly what I needed! thanks very much.

Part 39 is the idle adjustment. The idle is set correctly, just having a tiny high idle problem after being revved. Im looking for the fuel adjustment screw.

2005 Kodiak 450 Have had this quad a little over a year now. Bought used with 700 miles. Always had a tiny high idle after being revved up and after about 15 seconds it would go down to normal idle. Up until now we have completely cleaned the carb, all ports, jets, float and needle, new spark plug and have also adjusted the intake and exhaust valves. Intake was where it should be right within specs, exhaust was at the looser part of the spec so we tightened it up to the middle of the specs. It runs a lot better after all that, but there is still a tiny little bit of high idle after being revved and the rpms fall back down, maybe 3 seconds if that. I took the spark plug out and it is basically white, like its burning a lean mixture, its not burning a nice golden brown color on the plug. I would like to start with the fuel screw to try adjusting it a little to see if it would help, but I cant seem to find it. Could anyone give me some help of where its at and if its recessed in the carb a little? Has anyone else had this problem? What do yall advise to do?

bump

a couple more details. the water drained out of the cvt for about 45 sec. to a minute. the last bit of water that came out was pretty much almost clear. couple questions. did i do anything wrong after it going under? could water have got in the differential vents also? i routed them a little higher than they were from the factory.

its an 05 kodiak 450. i was going across a pond, i started off going across it just buy the bank, and slowly got to the point where it was inches under the headlights. i said what the heck i can go a little farther. as soon as i got to the middle, it dropped about 6 inches and the front went under, so i wheelied it. right rear wheel lost traction and it headed for the middle. i tried to get it in reverse and back it out but it was one of those times where it wouldn't just go in R. the whole quad leveled out, and intake went under. i pinned it until it sucked water in (heard this was the best thing to do so it dosent suck water back in on last stroke) and it finally died. i got off of it and let the rear float up so the intake was out of water, it turned over for about 5 seconds and finally started. i revved it for a little getting some of the water out and i finally reached over put it in 4wd lock and backed it out. pinned the gas and the belt was slipping cause of water in it. so i got in front of it and pushed the gas while pushing it out.i got it out and kept it running and drained the CVT and revved it hoping all the grit in the water ( not much) would drain out with the water. i kept that draining and took the tube off the front pipe vent for the CVT. and then the plug for the air box. i did all this while i was slightly revving it just to keep it alive and keep the tiny bit of sediment in the water while draining. i did all this in about a minute, DEFINATELY not more than 2. so VERY QUICKLY. should i be good to go for riding more? did i get lucky?

it was in neautral and the diff was not locked. so it must just be the way the gears mesh when you turn that wheel idk

Took the right front wheel off to put on new brake pads, once the wheel was off, i turned the hub, it was tough to get to turn and then notchy. Is it the way the differential is made that if you turn that wheel it is tought to turn and notchy? The left front is very smooth. I hope its just the way the gears are that give it the notchy feeling while turning it.

hhhmmm, i would say new battery, but i'm a dirtbike guy mostly, ill let someone else with more knowledge help

Are you getting spark while using the starter?

I finally popped it on there and gave it a few squirts of grease, a little came out 2 of the seals but not the others, is that normal? and on the other one that is at the differential it came out one of the seals easily, and didn't even come out of the other three.

k ill try tonite, ajm did you have this problem on your old kodiak?

we had that and we couldn't get the adapter, the silver part through the joint to fit on the fitting, no matter how we turned it

ok, and i noticed on the cv joints from the engine to front differential there are some grease fittings, we tried to use a regular grease gun to get on them but they won't fit in there, do we have to take it apart to get to those grease fittings on the cv joints?

ok, your saying the owners manual will have hours for that, but ill have to get a service manual for clearances right? thanks for the help

We have already ordered a factory manual, and it won't be ridden in the mud. how much faster will it wear? and how often should i check the valves on it?

I have looked around the wheels, steering, a arms and swingarm and i don't see any grease fittings. Also it has itp mudlite tires, they are one size up and have the 1 inch cleat, will they wear out the cv joints and wheel bearings faster?

Also what octane gas do i have to run, i noticed the compression on this thing is really high, idk if i need to run mid grade or premium

I'm new here. We have had many offroad things quads and dirtbikes (i race dirtbikes) but I just don't know about a 4 wheel drive quad. Well we just got an 03 yamaha kodiak 450. It has 730 miles and i can't remember the hours right now. Looks brand new other than part of the tank decal torn off. It even has brand new ITP mudlite tires. My question is what is the normal maintenance for this thing. Including differentials, oil, and how often to check valves. And are there any grease fittings i need to hit with some grease? and how often? thanks