tssetmr
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Everything posted by tssetmr
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I'm unable to open the link for a 2002 Rancher 350. TRX350. any ideas? Thank you.
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That's wonderful. Thank you so much! Great resource. I did this job several years ago but because I got in a hurry and didn't remove the ujoint I was unable to properly torque the nut. Therefore it had worked its way off. I now used Loctite red and properly torqued it. Thanks for your help!
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I'm in need of the torque specs for the rear output shaft pinion nut torque specs. Does anybody have them? As it is a pain in the @#$% to do I only want to do it this one time. Thank you.
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2008 Polaris Sportsman - No Voltage To Solenoid
tssetmr replied to tssetmr's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
I'm not seeing any fuses near the solenoid by the way. Maybe they are further up in the wiring? -
2008 Polaris Sportsman - No Voltage To Solenoid
tssetmr replied to tssetmr's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
I had checked at the weatherpack fitting at the solenoid and found no voltage to there. I don't know what wires carry voltage from the ignition switch but there are several at the switch that have full battery voltage so I'm assuming the switch just isn't passing voltage in the "start" position. Sound right? The ignition switch is $70 at the Polaris dealer so I want to be sure. Thank you for your input and service manuals guys. -
I'm helping my 72 year old friend/riding buddy with his 08 Sportsman 500. We have full battery voltage at the battery and on the battery cable that connects to the solenoid. If I jump across the 2 posts the engine turns over fine. Also runs fine with the back up recoil. However, it doesn't appear to be getting any voltage to the solenoid from the key switch. Does anybody know of a common failure on these like a fuse or a circuit breaker etc. that supplies power to the solenoid?
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I replaced the rear output shaft seal a year ago and it's leaking badly again. They are a pain to do because of the yoke being bolted to the shaft and the nut behind it. Has anybody seen this happen routinely to know if there may be something contributing to it like a bushing worn out on the output shaft that allows play? Also, any helpful hints as to how to get the nut off easier? Thank you.
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What do you guys know about the Mikuni swaps I've heard about on these Kawasaki's? I keep hearing that the Keihins are prone to problems and failures. I've seen these "new" Mikuni's on ebay for $120. I know throttle and choke cables will need to be purchased as well but is this a viable alternative?
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I'm trying to help out a friend. He had bad gas in it from sitting over the winter and tried to take the carb apart himself and clean it. When he put it back on he messed with any and every adjustment on it as well as the floats. I've set the floats at 17mm and re-cleaned every port in it as well as put a new needle for the float in it as the old one was sticking. I can't see any holes in the diaghram. It won't stay running now. Won't idle and has to be held at a high rpm to stay running. Any ideas?
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Does anybody have information on how to line up the timing marks on a 1991 LT4WD? In fact, I can't even see any marks. Hopefully somebody will have a pdf file with a photo or something. Thank you.
