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By Jeff Comstock
Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs. Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp
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By bradleyheathhays
So this '02 Taurus with only 87k miles on her starts right up every time multiple times a day except for twice in the last 3 weeks. The first time was 3 weeks ago and the second was today. It happened the same both times. Turn the key and stop to let the pump prime, then when I turn to the start position the engine turns real slow and sort of in fits. Usually when a battery is low the engine turns slow but in rhythm. During my 2 starts the engine barely seemed to turn and the crankshaft rpm seemed to vary. On both starting events I let off the key and tried to start 2-3 times with rests in between. But then eventually on the 4th try it starts right up just as quickly as a normal start.
I have No clue as to what might be causing this. Only thing I know to do is, next time it does this to put a voltage meter on the battery to see if it's weak. Actually though, because both events the engine ended up starting up like normal that would indicate something other than the batt. Electrically this car is a little odd though. The interior light never comes on when the doors are opened, for years, and then last week it comes on twice when one of the rear doors is opened.
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By Kaj Colum
Pushing the start button the engine turns and will forever without starting. But if I use the kick start it will start with one or two kicks everytime, any idea as to what is going on. New good battery and coil, I'm ready to try anything. It's a great bike, but this is getting anoying. Thank you.
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By bradleyheathhays
I have an '02 Taurus with 85k miles on her that I just bought. Today when I was checking something under the hood I noticed this metal line cold and dripping with water...
I had the air on but turned to the position of arrows pointing out of the dash and floor vents only. The defrost or a/c function was not selected. It seems to be doing it consistently. I haven't traced all the parts of this car's a/c system yet but I don't know of anything else under a hood that turns cold and sweats. Why would my compressor be working when it's not selected? What tests should I run?
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By bradleyheathhays
Last time I installed a remote start system it was on an old Dynasty whose wiring was too delicate to work on really. A couple weeks after installation it started ok but a ton of white smoke came from under the dash. I uninstalled the entire system and everything was fine after that.
So in picking out a starter for this '02 Taurus I want something simple that will work with this car well. The start systems I'm seeing are generally designed to do door locking and unlocking, trunk release, etc. As this car already has those functions on a fob I won't be using any function on any future remote start system other than the remote start.
Can anyone with knowledge of my car recommend a decent but low cost / low extra functions start system that would work well with my Taurus?
Thanks
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By Mo Salem
So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
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By LMI
Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile. When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end. When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing. fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day. What I know.
Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin. When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad. now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out. But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives? I even thought large computer case brushless fan. smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300. They run standard 12v DC.
Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
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By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
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