Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

carguydave

2000 Polaris Xplorer 250 oil pump questions

Recommended Posts

Just did a top end on a 2000 Xplorer 250. I premixed the first gallon so I could check the oil pump. At idle it fills the tube and drips very very slowly. When I rev it up and hold the lever open the oil runs out very slowly. I checked, and it does make pressure when I hold the lever up, but it doesn't really seem to at idle. Do you guys think my pump is OK? Also, what years used the plastic pump gear? Thanks for your help, Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Isn't that the way it is designed to work? It's based on engine rpm. At idle it will come out very slow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Christian Brindle
      I have a 2000 Polaris Sportsman 500. A year or so ago we got it running after replacing the kill switch. It ran great but after some use for a couple months it got a flat tire and for some reason we just forgot about it and it sat for some time. Before it sat i replaced the gas cap, fuel filter, fuel pump, petcock, battery, starter relay, oil and oil filter. I recently went to start it and it started so quickly and without choke or throttle but the ATV wouldn't move till about 1/4 throttle and it wasn't really a smooth ride until 1/2 throttle. it also would bog out randomly after you came to a stop and sounded like it was getting too much fuel. I cleaned the carb and adjusted the air/fuel screw to 1 3/4 turns out.  I also messed with the idle and the throttle cable adjuster up on the handlebars. It's safe to say it now runs worse than when i started working on it 2 days ago. It takes more effort to get started and bogs out idling after about 30 seconds. I tried adjusting the idle but every time i do it'll get to a sweet spot but after driving it down the driveway and back the idle will go up and down to the point where i can't put it in gear because the gears will grind. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
    • By Wesley Floyd
      Hey guys, Thanks for looking at my post. I haven't had a lot of experience with problems like this before, so I'm a little bit at a loss. The Quad was really hard to shift, (the dirty carb leaking gas making it idle high didn't help either). The only Idea I have would be is that the torsion spring is worn out, and that there is a normal parameter for how much it should move when those two arms of the shift shaft assembly spread apart.  That's my thought. Maybe someone who has more knowledge then me can let me know if i'm on the right track 😀

    • By Ray Roberts
      Hey everyone im new here, i have a problem with my 2001 suzuki quadrunner 500. When i start the bike up it sounds fine but a few seconds later the idle speed just keeps rising to where you cant put it in gear, and if im lucky it will climb down to where i can put it in gear but when i press the gas it immediately want to die. Please help me!
    • By JacobSlabach
      Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already.  When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there).  it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start.  I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things.  I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.  
      Enough background on it, the problem is this:  It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly.  It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold...  It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold-  does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal.  A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression.  I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis..  I have never adjusted valves before-  the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this.  My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top-  should i tear down and rebuild the top end?  What should i try first?  I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed.  I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.

      Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit-  Id rather not sink too much more into this machine..  lol
    • By mywifeknowseverythin
      I keep some people's phone numbers in my phone just so I know not to answer when they call.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×