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So I bought a 2001 Quad Runner 250 for my son/wife. Sorry I run a Grizzly 660.
I’ve rode it many times with no issue.
My son’s first time out, I could always hear him but feeling he ran it red line in first gear a lot.
So this is what it was doing during/end of the 2-3 hour ride:
- halfway though noticed smoke (oil) coming from front of the motor sort of under exhaust manifold. Once back at the truck, it was really noticeable. Definitely oil burning off. I’m thinking from the top end maybe.
So quick inspection:
- No leaks or seepage of oil that I could see
- I pulled the plug and it’s black but not wet
- No blue/white smoke in exhaust
- seems to still ride fine
- Engine still has plenty of oil
But now that I’m looking at it back at the house - it’s a hard/won’t start when hot. It starts right up cold no problem but once it stalls when hot, have to let it sit for 10-15 before it will start again.
It wasn’t idling before that trip so I jacked up the idle a bit as well but I think that’s a carb clean/adjustment but...
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I rebuild my front diff but can't find the torque spec for the pinion nut for my 1998 500 quadrunner. It had timkin bearings so I know the preload needs to be correct not to overheat or be too loose and take it out again. Does anyone know what the correct torque is.
Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Jeremy Morris
If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit.
I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada
By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
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