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Doeas any have the actual electrical diagram for the distirbution block for this atv > I had a few wire not worky worky so needed to replace ends plus dam thiing is dirty so needs to clean all the contacts ..
Want to make shure I get eveything back in right place .... I have the repair manual but as we know it no help really .....
By Ahren Longo
Yeah I know its been a while since I've been on but, I've recently aquired a 2005 Polaris ATP 500. As ya'll well know I'm sure that these things are notorious for faulty ECMs and they are made of unobtanium. I got this one from my brother. I've unpotted the old ECM and tested the components and have concluded that they don't flow the board properly from the factory so that's why they crap out. I've also done some research and found that if you take the harness and Stator and flywheel from a 2004 its basically a plug & play application and it eliminates the need for the ECM. Why the heck they put it in anyways is beyond me. I'm going to devise a way to make a plug & play adapter harness that eliminates the need for the ECM and restores the wheeler to use. Has anyone tried this before and had any luck? I've been trying to locate a wiring diagrams online so I can compare the 2004 to the 2005 but they're pretty hard to find.
I recently purchased the subject UTV for my kids. It's my first Polaris (other wheeler is a Teryx4) - and my first-ever single-cylinder vehicle (even my mower has more)...
Valve lash adjustment values... The operating manual recommends verifying at specific intervals, but does not provide the clearances or procedure. Any idea where I can obtain those? Tach on the display shows about 1500RPM when at idle, and about 6000 when WOT at max speed (30MPH). Does that seem correct? The engine does not SOUND like it's going that fast, but that may just be my unfamiliarity with single-cylinder engines. The idle feels mildly rough - and the tach shows a fluctuation of about 50 rpm. It's not wild, but it is noticeable. Again, without any point of reference, I do not know if that's just the nature of the beast, or if I should be concerned. The front wheels spin freely in the forward direction (mild brake noise can be heard), but when rotating tires backwards, the brake pads grab the rotor with significant force - making it nearly impossible to turn the rotor by hand. Considering the cost of new rotors and calipers, I'm hoping there is a know 'fix' for this issue. Any help would be appreciated! My kids can't wait for me to give it the "all clear". Still waiting on helmets to arrive from Amazon, so I have a couple of days to get all the maintenance and repairs completed.
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
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